[MCR] Mt. Temple East Ridge

Climbed the East Ridge of Temple today. The route is almost completely dry
and in excellent shape. We crossed snow for about 20 steps while traversing
up towards the exit gully. The exit gully has a little snow left that is
resulting in some rock fall. The summit ridge has more crevasses and moats
to negotiate than usual. Do not expect to find water on the route. You
also need to get down to Sentinel pass early enough to meet up with hikers
in order to comply with the group of six requirement.

Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Edith Cavell

Hello,

 

 We climbed the East Ridge of Edith Cavell on Tuesday July 25th. It was in quite good shape, mainly dry on the ridge with the usual snow crossings, some of which were safely bypassed on rock. There was a couple sections of ice on the upper ridge which may require an axe and crampons. The summit ridge had some recent tracks quite high on the cornice (yikes!), we used crampons and travelled lower down. Fresh socks and running shoes make the final trail home a little nicer.

 

 Enjoy your days,

 

Andrew Langsford

 

Asst. Alpine/Ski Guide  

 

 

 

 ridgemcr@informalex.org wrote:

Climbed Mt. Assiniboine Yesterday July 27/06. Excellent conditions,
the best I have seen for a few years. The mountain itself is almost
free of snow, except for couple patches. Still has a summit cornice
that you need to be careful. We did not use any crampons, and used my
ax to chop 4 steps.

The Gmoser Highway is also in great shape. The only snow patch left is
in the far south end where you exit out. That snow is easily bypassed
on the left.

The Temperature yesterday at 03:30 was about +9.0 at 8800 feet. On the
summit of Assiniboine ( 11, 867) was about +5 at 09:00.

Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide



_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

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[MCR] A2 & Boundary - Icefields

Climbed A2 & Boundary Pk. yesterday.

The glacier below A2-Athabasca col is starting to break up -- days are
numbered for a straightforward approach to A2 or Athabasca's E face this
summer (The E face looks to be in good condition except for the usual
seracs, and the NE ridge is in good, dry condition).

We travelled mostly on bare ice on the North Glacier approaching the
Athabasca/Boundary col. While the snow on the last couple hundred metres
to the col may be tempting, there are some really big thinly bridged
crevasses closer to the glacier's margin.

Good travel, but one minor punch through a snow bridge on the upper
Boundary.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Assiniboine July 26 to 28/06

Climbed Mt. Assiniboine Yesterday July 27/06. Excellent conditions,
the best I have seen for a few years. The mountain itself is almost
free of snow, except for couple patches. Still has a summit cornice
that you need to be careful. We did not use any crampons, and used my
ax to chop 4 steps.

The Gmoser Highway is also in great shape. The only snow patch left is
in the far south end where you exit out. That snow is easily bypassed
on the left.

The Temperature yesterday at 03:30 was about +9.0 at 8800 feet. On the
summit of Assiniboine ( 11, 867) was about +5 at 09:00.

Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Assiniboine July 26 to 28/06

Climbed Mt. Assiniboine Yesterday July 27/06.   Excellent conditions, the best I have seen for a few years.  The mountain itself is almost free of snow, except for couple patches.  Still has a summit cornice that you need to be careful.  We did not use any crampons, and used my ax to chop 4 steps.

The Gmoser Highway is also in great shape.  The only snow patch left is in the far south end where you exit out.  That snow is easily bypassed on the left.

The Temperature yesterday at 03:30 was about +9.0 at 8800 feet.  On the summit of Assiniboine ( 11, 867) was about +5 at 09:00.

Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Interior Ranges - Bugaboos - July 25-27/06

Just out from a trip into the Bugaboos - conditions are holding up so far -
Bugaboo Snowpatch Col still in snow condition - schrund continues to open
midslope requiring a big step/jump to cross if you follow the main track up
it.

Temps were quite warm(no overnight freezes) with a major
lightening/thunder/rain event mid afternoon on July 25(Tuesday) that caught
a lot of parties still out on their routes - weather stabilized again on
Wednesday with only fair weather clouds.

Kudos to Parks/ACC for the improvements to the parking area and hut (new
filtration system on water supply to Conrad Kain hut) - parking lot was
quite full and there are something like 25 plus people registered for the
hut over the weekend and until Tuesday next week.

Scott Davis
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] MCR mistake

Sorry folks as this is obviously not about Mountain Conditions

For details please go to the ACMG online forum.

Andre Ike

MG

[MCR] MG or AG guide needed for Assiniboine Aug 2-5

 Flight and hut booking is arranged.

$2000 for the 4 days.  2 Japanese clients with their personal Japanese mountain guide

(not IFMGA) who also acts as translator.

Email jia_condon@hotmail.com or me andreike@hotmail.com

 

[MCR] Neil Colgan area and Ohara

Just got back from 3 days at Neil Colgan and one day at Ohara. Steep ice
faces such as Fay north face, Quadra north face are in poor condition and
full of black steaks. West ridge of Fay is good with easy shrund crossing
and icy conditions to ridge. Hungabee is almost dry with snowpatch
disappearing fast and traverse into the coal bands drying fast. Lefroy is
vertical gravel mixed with ice and some snow-poor condition. Victoria south
ridge in good condition. Temperatures at 4:00 am at 9000 ' around +10

Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain Conditions summary for July 27th, 2006

Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 27th, 2006

 

It is now approximately the sixth week of summer conditions in the alpine and the hot, dry and getting icier trend continues.The snow is still melting quickly, especially below 3300m and ice is starting to melt signifigantly on the margins of ice faces and glaciers. Actual snow travel conditions vary greatly from day to day with solid freezes and morning slush all being possible.

 

Rockfall from the rapid melting of snow and especially of old ice is arguably the biggest hazard right now. As the ice faces and steep glaciated terrain melts out some REALLY ugly terrain is being exposed. Big blocks are left perched in precarious positions and they are looking to find a new home somewhere downhill.

 

Pure alpine rock routes are generally bone dry with some rare exceptions at high elevations. Snow and ice routes are getting icier by the day and bergschrunds are slowly opening up. The big mixed routes are generally in terrible condition right now, dry with lots of rockfall, dirty ice and exposed choss. Glacier travel is mostly excellent but alpinists need to be prepared for both bare ice and poorly bridged crevasses, especially in the daytime heat.

 

There is some possibility of rain in the weekend forecasts. Light to moderate rain isn't going to change anything dramatically in the snow but obviously it will be weak when rain soaked. We haven't had many big thunder and lightning events this summer but watch the most recent forecasts when planning your trip and the upwind weather when you are out as this could be an electric weekend.

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide  

[MCR] Glacier Park - Sir Donald Area Trails open - July 26

Sir Donald trails are now open (July 26).  Sir Donald, Perley Rock, Avalanche Crest and Great Glacier all open, with a bear closure lifted today.

 

Jordy Shepherd

Seasonal Park Warden

Mountain Guide

 

[MCR] Opabin Pass 060724

The bergschrund between Opabin Pass and Opabin Glacier is opening fast. Pass-able today (Jul24) but maybe not for much longer.. at least easily.

Terry Duncan

Ski/Backpack guide

[MCR] Mt Niblock and Mt Whyte

Climbed both of these mountains yesterday (July 23) via their scrambles routes. Very little snow left in the approach bowl above Lake Agnes (but nice to walk on where you can) and no snow above the col going up either routes. Electrical activity was underway by 12pm just in time for us to descend.

Be perpared for a scree slog!

 

Jesse de Montigny

Assistant Rock Guide

Assistant Ski Guide

[MCR] Mt. Athababsca in the Heat - July 22

2.15 AM start on the Normal (North Glacier) Route of Mt. Athabasca on Saturday 7/22 with temps estimated around +10C at the parking lot @ 2000m. Snow coverage started around 2900 m on the North Glacier. The traverse across the ramp below the Silverhorn was well tracked in and quite steep in spots (see image) - a large and obvious crevasse bridge can also be bypassed a bit higher than the main track, a small detour that seems worth-while given the effects of the heat wave. Nil overnight refreeze to mountain top, but travel was still manageable in the slushy snow. I had a look at the descent down the AA col side, which at 10AM had not yet seen any sun, however the snow overlying the ice was water saturated and there was reason to be concerned to see it slide with the day time warming. We opted to descent the way we came down the North Glacier.

 

While on Thursday the Sky Ladder on Andromeda appeared from the distance somewhat like a snow / ice climb, by Saturday afternoon it was looking totally rotten with black streaks running down the lower parts.

 

Hope for cooler temps........

 

Jorg Wilz

Mountain Guide IFMGA

www.ontopmountaineering.com

 

[MCR] Asulkan valley July 17th-21st, 2006

Five days at the Asulkan hut in the heat. Mostly good freezes overnight and great travel conditions.

 

Youngs peak NW face in good shape but will be an ice face soon.

Swanzy north ridge. Description talks about a chimney topped with loose rock. We may have missed something but we only found a big rockfall scar there and climbed a somewhat serious 5.8 pitch on the ridgecrest. Upper route is in awesome shape as was descent down SE couloir.

 

Mostly snow on the glaciers but it is getting thin. Big fresh grizzly tracks through Asulkan pass.

 

Hut is in great shape. Sir Donald trail still closed as of 3pm today for grizzly action.

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide

 

[MCR] Glacier Park - Sir Donald, Perley Rock, Great Glacier and Avalanche Crest Trails Closed - Bear in Area

Park Wardens in Glacier National Park have closed the Sir Donald, Perley Rock,
Great Glacier and Avalanche Crest trails as there is a grizzly bear frequenting
the trails and slide paths. These trails are climbers access for Avalanche,
Eagle, Uto and Sir Donald. This closure is until further notiice.

There is also a bear warning for the Asulkan Valley trails, but this still
allows hikers/climbers access to the Asulkan Hut, Youngs Peak from the Seven
Steps side, Sapphire Col, and the Asulkan Traverse.

Check with the Glacier National Park Visitor Center for updates.
Phone 250-814-5232

Jordy Shepherd
Seasonal Park Warden
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Des Poilus

Spent the past couple of days in the Des Poilus glacier area. Excellent
conditions, good travel and crevasse bridging, with reasonable overnight
freezes over the past couple of nights.

We climbed Mt. Des Poilus on July 19, summitted at 11:00 am. Snow was firm
to the top going up, and softening quickly, making for good steps, on the
descent. The bergschrund is in good shape, easily passed on a bridge to
the left. This bridge is quickly getting smaller though, and the schrund
is quite large.

There is a very friendly family of goats in the area, eager for a taste of
anything salty; so mind where you urinate.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain conditions summary July 20, 2006

Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued
July 20th, 2006

Alpine conditions are generally dry on most routes with good conditions on
glacial approaches. Bergschunds are starting to widen but most people are
reporting them to be passable. Forecast for all ranges over the weekend are
calling for very warm temperatures with temps up 30 degrees in valley
bottoms. Little freezing if any can be expected at all elevations.
Cornice failures need to be considered with these conditions. Rockfall
potential on alpine faces also warrants serious consideration with the lack
of freezing.

Columbia Icefield area. Routes such as Silverhorn and Athabasca North Face
are now quite icy. Glacier is melted back to almost ramp height on normal
route of Athabasca. There are still large cornices on Andromeda.

Banff, Yoho Kootenay Parks: Good conditions throughout. East of the
TransCanada, conditions are bone dry. Along the Divide, expect good
conditions throughout with icy conditions on routes such as Victoria.
Routes such as Lefroy and Glacier peaks still have snow but it is thin and
it won't last.

Rogers Pass Area: Generally good conditions with rock routes dry. Swiss
Glacier is dry but snow couloir on Rogers Peak still snowy. Couloirs on
Swiss peaks getting icy. Faces like Youngs peak are ice. West face bypass
on Sir Donald still has a small snowpatch. Of note, Sir Donald Trail just
closed today for bear activity.

Bugaboos: Good conditions throughout. Bugaboo Snowpatch Col still snow and
passable but bergschrund is getting wider.

Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Sorry - wrong distribution list for last message

Hi Everyone:

My last posting about a dubious client contact ended up in the wrong distribution list by mistake. It will be pulled of the server asap. Another example of the pointer finger being a bit too fast on that send button.......

 

Sorry,

 

Jorg Wilz

Mountain Guide

 

 

[MCR] Dubious Client Contact

Hi Everyone:

Has anyone else seen a request for climbing instruction by a guy named tim gray (or other name) with a hotmail account, who is supposedly coming to the Rockies on a work assignment with his brother and is keen to pay for three months worth of two days / week in advance? Language and "too good to be true" type of the request indicates that it might be a new version of personalized scam from Africa that is geared at collecting personal information to use for producing fake checks or other forms of identity fraud? Has anybody else seen it?

 

Cheers,

Jorg

 

OnTop ltd.

Certified Mountain Guides (IFMGA / UIAGM)

Canada - Europe - USA

1-800 506-7177 or (001) 403 678 2717

 

[MCR] Stanley Peak

Climbed Stanley Peak yesterday July 17th.

 

Poor freezing overnight and the melt freeze crust was braking down with sun exposure around 8AM. Was on the summit @ 9AM. Unless we get colder temperature, I highly recommend starting very early and being back down by lunchtime.

 

Approach: Both tongues of the glacier (East and West) are on bare ice and in similar condition. Upper flat part of the glacier below the North face of the mountain is covered with snow with good travel early in AM but deteriorating during the day.

 

Route: North Face, Kahl Route: First half of the route is mostly on bare ice (good glacier climbing). Other half is on snow (good steps except for the last 40m where the snow coverage is thin).

 

Descent: The best and safest way down is the long way on the NW ridge. The short cut in the snow gully is in bad condition this year. The snow is actually not going all the way down. An other party attempted to descend that way yesterday and one climber fail down and was injured seriously with head injury and possibly some broken bones. Coming back down the Kahl route is an other option if you are familiar with technical alpine descent (steep and high exposure!).

 

Other routes on the mountain: I had a look at the other routes on the north face and they are all in very bad condition with lots of rock falls and lack of good ice. You do not want even get close to those things!

 

Be safe climbing, I had enough rescue training for this year!

Remy Bernier

ACMG Rock Guide

remybernier@yahoo.com

www.myrockguide.com

Tel: 403-678-4276

---

Lèche-vitrine ou lèche-écran ? Yahoo! Magasinage.

[MCR] Mt. Hector

Climbed Mt. Hector on July 9 and 16.

A poor overnight freeze on July 8 and afternoon rain made for deep
penetrations (up to 40cm in the final 300 ft. of elevation) that allowed
us to summit without crampons.

A good overnight freeze on July 15 (ice in the puddles on the moraines)
made for a 5cm boot pen up to about 10,000 ft. above this we used
crampons and were just able to kick thin steps with a bit of work. The
crust was 25cm thick on the snow slope leading to the summit col. Our
steps from last week through the rock gullies near the summit were
frozen solid.

The glacier still has snow right down to where you step on to it below
Little Hector. A 50m long crevasse cuts the middle of the glacier
perpendicular to the fall line. Last week we passed it on the left,
this week on the right, with the latter having fewer sags and weak bridges.
The glacier flats at about 9500 ft. that lead up towards the initial
steep snow slope had a breakable crust that stopped supporting in the
afternoon so travel was easier on the scree shoulder to the west
although the lower elevations were reasonable with boot penetrations of
mainly10-20cm on descent.

Shaun King
Full Asst. Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Athabasca and Andromeda

Hello,

 

Just spent the 15th and 16th climbing Athabasca and Andromeda.

 

On the 15th we climbed the silverhorn which was in great shape. The burgshrund was easy to cross and the snow was secure to climb to the top. Good Ice screws were easily dug to a few rope lengths above the 'shrund. We descended the ramp route, which had ok snow for walking in. Think about how to safely cross the ramp....there is a big drop below! Snow became moist around 11:30am.

 

On the 16th we climbed the North Bowl of Andromeda. Woke up to rain which quickly stopped. Went for the walk and found the freezing level to be at about the height of the access to the glacier. Travel was excellent on the glacier. The route was in good shape with soft snow to 2/3's of the way up and the rest of the route being on good alpine ice. The decent down the true AA col was in good shape.  Good dry snow (even in the afternoon) for kicking steps down but the ice is easily available if you need the pro. If you only have one rope to rap over the 'shrund it needs to be 60m and you need to rap from the lowest possible point of rock on the climbers left. This may change with more melt out as it is a rope stretcher.

 

Have Fun!

 

Jesse de Montigny

Assistant Rock Guide

Assistant Ski Guide

[MCR] Lake OHara area July 16th, 2006

The rain and snow of the last few days is basically gone on all aspects and at all elevations. Just about everything worth climbing is in grand shape around Lake OHara as of this afternoon, july 16th.

 

The only exception would be the west ridge of Hungabee. It still needs some more melt on the west face and upper gullies before the rockfall calms down to a dull roar.

 

Cathedral, Lefroy and Glacier peak are still mostly snow but it would be foolish to go without crampons as the ice is growing every day and the snow is sometimes freezing HARD.

 

Ringrose, Biddle west ridge and Odaray are in good shape.

The Tarrant buttress is dry enough and the glacier is icy on the voie normal.

 

Victoria is getting better and worse by the day. More rock showing along with more ice. So it goes. The North face of the North peak of Victoria looks disgustingly dangerous right now with complicated bare ice travel and seracs overhead for a long way. I can't imagine it getting better soon.

 

Lake OHara approach to Abbotts Pass is 90% dirt and rock.

Lots of room at the hut most nights.

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide

 

[MCR] Bugaboos July 9 - 14

Spent a week in the Bugaboos.  BS Col still in good shape, ‘schrund still easily passed on the climber’s right.  Monday was electrical and showery.  With a moderate freeze on Tuesday crampons would have been nice, but steps could be kicked, and the Kain route on Bugaboo was dry.  Wednesday through Friday was wet but the lower easy peaks were climbable.  Soft rain soaked snow on the glaciers.  The crevasses are starting to open now.  Thursday night the snow level dropped to below the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and left 2 cm  of new snow on Hound’s Tooth.  From the limited views, Bugaboo, Snowpatch and Pigeon had a light dusting of snow, which should be mostly melted by now (Sunday 16th).  The weather looked to be improving as we hiked out Friday.

 

Jordy Shepherd

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

 

 

[MCR] Moraine Lake trail restrictions

Was at Moraine Lake today. The group size restrictions are on for Larch
Valley and Consolation lake trails, so you need 6 people to go up to
those areas.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Little Yoho

Just back from Little Yoho today after sitting through 36 hours of rain. Still raining at 2 pm today. Got a brief look up at the President today and could see a dusting of fresh snow to 3000 meters.

Clearing on the drive east. North face of Temple was soaked but had no fresh snow on it, and I could see to the top.

Grant Statham
Mountain Guide

___________________________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] President and Vice President

Climbed both the President and Vice President on July 11^th, from the east, based from the Little Yoho Campground (beside the Stanley Mitchell Hut)

 

We had a great freeze overnight and travel conditions were prime with zero foot penetration in the AM and less than 10cm on the way down at around 1200.

 

The Bergshrund to access the col was well covered on the right side. Some significant rock fall was noted past and present from the melting on the climbers right (north) side of the glacier. There are some drooping cornices that threaten to fail on the right/north side of the glacier as well.

 

See photo looking up toward the col

 

Rob Owens

Ass. Alpine Guide

 

[MCR] Purcell Range - Catamount Glacier/Olive Hut July 9-13/06

Just back from 5 days in the Catamount/Northstar Glaciers area.

Weather was quite unsettled with major Thunder/Lightening/Rain storm on the
night of July 9 that finished off with a dusting of wet snow down to 8500ft.
and another rain event (sans lightening) overnight on July 12 and still
raining lightly at 8500ft. (a light dusting of snow above 9,000 ft.) when we
left on the morning of July 13th - temp was 2.0 C.

Snow has retreated to just above the lower tongue of the glacier so not lots
of obvious crevasses yet but snowcover is quite shallow and changing
quickly.

No new avalanche activity was observed even with all the rain - some places
the surface snow was deep enough and saturated enough with water to start
small sluffs but the pockets we encountered were small and isolated - most
snow was firm with ankle deep penetration - July 10th is the only night we
had freeze,.

It was handy to have the skis for our returns home and the soft snow made
the suncups tolerable - it is a fun area with many nice summits and a
variety of snow and rock mountaineering objectives on granite.

Cheers,
Scott Davis
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Parkway

I did a spin up to the Columbia Icefields and back today. There is a
fresh dusting of snow down to about 3300m in the Lake Louise area, and
down to about 3000 m in the icefields area. Overall above 3000 m it
still looks to be more old winter snow remaining but lower elevations
seem drier than normal for this time of year.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary July 12th, 2006

Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 12th, 2006

 

We are well into midsummer conditions at all elevations throughout the Rockies, Purcells and Selkirks.

 

Below treeline there is basically no snow except in old avalanche deposits. At treeline snow is very rare and only in old drifts, avalanche deposits and deep dark north facing features.

 

In the alpine snow is still plentiful above 3000m's but it very much has the feel of summer snow and has been through many melt freeze cycles. The strength of the snow in the alpine is variable. Alpinists can assume it will be strong after a cold clear night but becoming weak and staying that way with poor freezes, daytime heating or during rain events.

 

Glaciers are starting to show lots of ice at lower elevations and on sun affected aspects. Keep in mind the potential for  rockfall along the margins of bare ice faces. A number of hot summers have melted away lots of old ice and started to expose perched rocks and boulders that have not seen the light of day for hundreds of years.

 

A lot of rain fell in the last couple of days but all reports indicate that the freezing level was very high and no signifigant snowfall in the alpine was reported.

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide 

[MCR] Whistler Area

I spent the last three days in the mountains around Whistler/Blackcomb.  The trail along the Musical Bumps is 90% snow free, snow patches start around 1700m on the north aspects and 1900m (or a lot higher some places) on the south sides. Sun Cups are well formed and the snow is easy to walk on.  Although there is not a lot of bare ice showing there are lots of sags on crevasses.

 

 

Dave Sarkany

Ski Guide   

[MCR] Mt Sir Donald

Up the NW Arete yesterday with Jesse Demontigny on a training mission.

The route was in excellent shape, dry with no snow or ice on the N
face throughout the lower (crux) third. Several small snow patches
still linger in shady pockets in the upper third, but these were easy
to avoid or kick up.

As the clouds rolled in near the top, we caught up to Marco Delesalle
and guest and opted to descend together. The west face ledges still
looked to have a fair bit of snow covering the steep slabs, so we
stayed on the arete. The start of the bolted rappel stations that
avoid the downclimb of the lower half of the route is currently
flagged with webbing and so is easy to spot. The low angle terraces
below the rappel line still have a bit of snow and running water as
does the top of the approach slope, so we kept the rope out right to
the ground.

Despite intense-looking skies, the weather (mostly) held for us, but
the monsoon and fireworks that hit as we descended may have left a
fresh dusting of snow up high and on the N face, at least until the
sun returns.

New (to me, anyway) on the approach is a Lower Trail which stays
below the steep moraines at the base. If you haven't yet heard about
it, it is a well built trail that splits off from the old trail 50m
or so below the top of the waterfall. The melt flow is high right
now, so the stream crossing was not dry or obvious, but the trail is
well cairned on the north (far) side and stays just above treeline
until almost underneath the Sir D-Uto col. This avoids the ascent up
the lateral moraine and almost all of the steep snow side hilling,
rock fall hazard and general scree bashing of the old approach. The
new campsite (toilet) that's been put in beside the tarn 1/2 way
along this new trail is also a much better and more durable bivy than
the old meadow bivy sites.

Carl Johnston
ACMG Rock Guide and sometime shortroping crash test dummy
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] West Coast MCR Summary July 6

West Coast Mountain Conditions Summary , issued July 6th, 2006

 

Similar to the Rockies and Interior ranges, many reports of excellent early summer conditions in the Alpine. Generally warm and sunny conditions over the past week has consolidated snow at all elevations. Shallow step kicking reported on many snow slopes.

 

Although the past few days cooler temps have allowed for some minimal overnight freezes, the forecast is for warmer temps and abundant radiation throughout the weekend. A solid freeze won't likely happen over the next few nights, however good to still have the crampons handy for those steep pitches higher in the alpine, or for the icy glacial tongues

 

Glaciers seem well covered from mid way up, but larger crevasses are definitely starting to show signs of sagging. If you have the chance, scope your glacier routes later in the day, or early in the AM where the cross lighting from the sun highlights the sags. Although coastal crevasse bridges have a reputation of being more forgiving, surprises still happen. Ensure your rope team isn't falling asleep at the switch.

 

Although there have not been any reports of cornice failures in the past week, I would keep a watchful eye on these, and avoid being underneath anything that looks like it could break off, and ruin your day, especially when the sun is cooking them. The other concern is snow on rock slabs. There are numerous places I have seen large glide release avalanches on hot days in the mid summer caused by meltwater lubricating the underside. Although you can never be guaranteed that the snow you are on is sitting on a slab, usually glide cracks on top of the slope are a giveaway.

 

Rule of thumb for being under cornices and glide slabs -

Early AM good

Late AM and PM bad

 

No reports on mosquito inventory yet, but I would assume there are a few billion larvae on the cusp of a hatch. Handkerchiefs to cover the face, and bug dope (applied well away from ropes, webbing, etc) will be useful here.

 

Happy Climbing!

Brian Gould
Mountain Guide

 

 

 

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary July 6th, 2006

Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains, issued July 6th, 2006

 

All reports confirm generally excellent early summer conditions in the alpine. Daytime heating and some poor overnight freezes are the biggest variables in the snow and ice world at present. There have been a couple of reports of cornice failures and wet snow avalanches and lots of rockfall in the areas where snow patches are melting away in steep terrain.

 

In the Selkirks, Purcells and Rockies, alpine rock routes are in great shape. The classic ridges like Victoria, Edith Cavell, Assiniboine and Sir Donald are very climbable but cornices, snow patches and rockfall due to melt will be part of the deal for a few days yet on some features. Steep rock routes on all but the highest North faces are drying out way ahead of "normal".

 

Glaciers throughout the ranges are getting icy at low elevations and in exposed locations. With a good freeze, glacier travel is great but be aware that bridges are getting thinner and a couple of warm days with poor freezes can lead to nasty suprises. Keep the rope on and the slack down.

 

The big snow slopes and ice faces are widely variable right now. Again, with a good freeze, an early start and a good plan some snow and ice routes can be as good as they get.

A poor freeze, a late start and some fooling around could be a recipe for disaster. Please, don't even think about the big mixed routes like the A-Strain, Ice Hose and Edith Cavell North face for the foreseeable future.

 

Enjoy it while it lasts!

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Bugaboos July 2-5th, 2006

Excellent conditions in the bugaboos right now. All routes on Bugaboo, Snowpatch and Crescent are dry. Pigeon has some snow on last part of west ridge and the east face/Kor route is still wet but drying fast. Howsers are in great shape. Beckey/Chouinard is mostly dry and cornice is mostly gone above east face descent. West face of North Howser is mostly dry I suspect and the Kain Route and North ridge are still mostly snow but some ice is showing through.

 

  Glacier travel is still excellent and Bugaboo/ Snowpatch col is very friendly as of today. With the current temperatures, long range forecast and the fact that it only early july, the Bugaboo /Snowpatch col MAY turn into an icy, rockfall nightmare by august. I sincerely hope I am wrong.

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide

 

 

[MCR] Cascade Range Mt. Shuksan June 1-3/06

I was on Mt. Shuksan June 1-3 via the Sulphide Glacier.

 

Trail was clear until 4,000 ft. where it became snow covered – there is some pink flagging strewn about once the trail disappears but basically just continue straight uphill from where you lose the trail – caution for holes and hollow spots by buried trees etc. – until you reach the ridgecrest then just head right along the ridgecrest.

 

The glacier is still well covered but holes are beginning to open up on the main route – of the most concern hazard wise was the large slabs of snow falling off the rock slabs (known as glide slab avalanches) that loom above the traverse to the upper camps – I suggest that once you cross the last bit of exposed scree, rather than following the main track in the snow as it traverses upward, just drop down slightly (maybe a hundred feet) to a lower bench to traverse under the hazard area – there is still a fair bit if snow hanging up there so be alert no matter what way you travel.

 

Lots of people still skiing the glacier – main gulley on summit pyramid still has some snow in it – I dug out the solar toilets at both upper camps – temps where hot the whole time with no real freeze overnight – however the snow is still supportive and foot steps are only ankle deep.

 

Scott Davis

Mountain Guide

 

[MCR] Abbott Pass

July 2-4
Some snow patches getting up to the hut from Lake Ohara make some of the
travelling a bit easier but those are going quick. No rockfall observed.

Lows of +8 each night. Calm at the pass all of the days. Climbed W face of
Lefroy yesterday. A thin melt freeze crust overlying the wet snow below.
Good boot/calf steps all the way up. Hard enough in spots to warrant crampons.
No avalanche activity observed on Lefroy.

One party on Victoria reporting very slushy conditions with some double edged
cornices. Some avalanche activity up to size 2 on the E aspects of Victoria
observed. Cornices are starting to peel off randomely now as well.

Seems to be a very small window of opportunity with the warm temps. Solar
aspects breaking down almost immedietely.

Steve Holeczi
Alpine Guide/ Assistant Ski Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt. Assiniboine

Went by there today. Normal route still has snow but it is going fast.

Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Columbia Icefields

July 1-3, Columbia Icefields area.

The snow is disappearing fast.

On Parker's Ridge, the traditional "snow skills" area will soon be gone, and
the crevasse rescue wind scoop is fading fast.

The AA glacier is free of snow until just before the AA Col slope. The
bergschrund is still easy, due to the avalanche debris covering it. The left
side of the AA Col slope is now mostly scree. The tops of the gulleys that
break through to the Mt Athabasca saddle from the AA Col slope now have 2-30
cm of snow over top of ice. Short-roping down the top part of most of these
gullies is a bit risky. An easier way exists in the gulley far to climber's
left/skier's right, where travel is mostly on scree.

Cheers,

Grant Meekins
Alpine Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] East ridge Edith Cavell

Up the East ridge and down the NW ridge yesterday. Crampons on to gain
the col at the base of the E ridge in the early morning cold (05:30).
Put crampons on again to cross the snow coulior on top of the lower
ridge. On the level shoulder traverse possible to kick steps across
several snow slopes. Crux step of the steep upper ridge is dry and snow
can be mostly avoided by playing the left side of the ridge. At about
10,500' we put crampons on. Hard work traversing the summits with
sometimes supportive and sometimes breakable crust. Best to rap the
shale step on the NW ridge right now as snow and ice complicate turning
it (if I had it to do over ...). Took crampons off at 10,560' and
scramble down to the meadows to change to running shoes for the long
walk out. One more week of summer weather should have the route in top
drawer shape.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard, Mountain Guide

www.yamnuska.com

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.