Conditions are currently excellent in the range with average late summer snow coverage. Warm temps of the past few weeks have consolidated the snow for quick travel conditions especially if you have a good overnight freeze like we had Wed night.
N Face of Serratus is mix of snow, ice, and rock. Several variations of rock and/or ice exist. Most parties are descending down the west side of the mountain. Several options here. Try to get a good look at it from camp before you leave.
The Dione Coulior is still climbable, maybe for a few weeks more. Schrund can be crossed on left side by crawling into it. 3 pitches of snow climbing from here with good moat belays. We passed the rock step on the right side (low 5th) Last half of couloir is mostly loose rock. Great care should be taken if parties are below.
The SE Face of Dione is easily accessed on the left of the schrund. About a dozen folks summiting on Thursday.
SE Spur of Tantalus (high route) is accessed by contouring accross and crossing snowbridge onto rock. We left our ice axes and crampons here, and ensured we descended via same 'high route'. 'Alpine Select' guidebook suggests 20 m rap into Darling Coulior, however we found 5m of easy downclimbing instead. Galvanized chain and padlock still on summit (Anyone know where this came from? -heard rumour of disgruntled climber that broke into cable car, and carried chain to summit)
Descent Route off of Dione ridge on page 164 is wrong. A better descent is one gully to the right of the 'yes' route. 60 m rap gets you to the glacier, however rope drag is a problem when pulling the ropes.
Red Tit is still a reasonable refuge in bad weather, although leaks in several spots. It is rumoured to be removed when the new hut is finished.
This place is becoming very popular, and I only wish I had bought real estate here before the boom.
No less than 8 helicopter loads (5 different groups) of folks showing up over the 5 days that I was there!! This weekend will be busy.
New hut is looking good. Experienced building help still needed if you would like to volunteer some time. See www.jimhaberlfund.org
Happy Tantaleering!
Brian Gould
www.hautealpine.com
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