season conditions. Lot's of snow on the ridge above 9500 ' with large
butterfly cornices on the middle and main peaks, making for some
interesting climbing. Lot's of previous cornice failure along the ridge.
Snow pickets would definately be an asset . Didn't use any ice screws.
Lower third of the route is mainly dry and free of snow upper 2/3 was
good Neve climbing. In crampons most of the day. Still plenty of snow below
the col at the base of the ridge , making for an easy decent on the knees
The road is in good shape. Active logging at present with trucks hauling up
to the north fork junction of the Bush. No trucks passed on the north
fork...
Cheers Troy
Home: 250 837 9551
Cell 250 814 8150
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