the latest:
Parkers Ridge Weather Station @ 2000m (near Mt. Athabasca):
August 18th - Low temp -2.7 @ 06:00 / Hi temp +6.5 @ 17:00
Aug 19th - Low temp +3.4 @ 05:00 / Hi temp +10.4 @ 16:00
Aug 20th - Low temp +7.2 @ 05:00 / Hi temp +13.4 @ 18:00
Aug 21st - Low temp +9.4 @ 06:00 / Present temp +15 @ 15:30
Conditions:
Aug 19th - Moist point release avalanche size 2 from Silverhorn (single
rock startzone) on Athabasca running onto flats of North Glacier across the
Ramp Route. Also a moist point release size 1.5 onto Ramp Route from
Silverhorn, and a size 1.5 moist point release from rocks on upper
Skyladder running half path.
Recent reports of good travel conditions at the Icefields, but most parties
are starting super early (02:00) and off the routes for an early brunch.
In the afternoon climbers are breaking through the crust up to their knees
into the moist snow below. One Athabasca North Face By-pass party reported
this morning measuring +11 at 03:00 at the climber's parking lot, and
decided not to climb.
The upper east ridge of Edith Cavell is still quite snowy, with recent
attempts but no report of any successful summiteers.
With a dusting of recent storm snow and moderate north winds the crevasse
fields are thinly bridged, and many slots are well hidden. Cautious roped
travel with lots of probing is essential. See attached photo on the
Boundary Glacier taken August 18th. The roped climber that fell in to
their waist was walking in the footsteps of the climber in front, with no
indication that there was a crevasse underfoot. Lots of end-running slots,
probing and Chevron/Echelon travel was required to move through.
The skier's left side of the Boundary Glacier is passable with lots of
transitioning between short-roping and glacier travel spacing, and some
rockfall hazard as the line goes below the cliffs of Boundary Peak.
Jordy
(See attached file: Boundary Glacier Crevasse Fall - August 18th, 2005.jpg)