Issued August 25, 2005
A bit of a change to mountain conditions this past week especially on the eastern side of the Rockies. A typical third week of August snowstorm crossed all regions mid week, leaving various amounts of new snow behind.
This upslope storm was focused mainly on the Bow Valley and Lake Louise areas. Regions to the west and north were spared the full brunt. Rogers Pass, the Columbia Icefields and the Bugaboos received about 5-10 cm, which was melting away rapidly on Thursday. Expect good conditions in these areas over the coming days, with fresh snow lingering on the north facing terrain.
In the Lake Louise area, observations the day after the storm put the snowline at about 2200m, just down into the treeline. Depth increased rapidly with elevation to about 30 cm of snow observed at 2500 m. Add to this the drifting effects of wind, and pockets of new snow up to 70 cm can be expected at higher elevations.
With the good weather forecast, its likely to be a great weekend and hopefully some of this recent snow will settle and/or melt away. Alpine climbing in the Lake Louise group will require some serious thought - with drifted snow in excess of 75 cm in the alpine, and a return to warm temperatures . . . put your avalanche thinking cap on! Stick to ridge crests and watch out on the big faces. No doubt the mountains will be shedding the new snow over the next few days.
Be wary of steep, sun-exposed terrain where both avalanches and rockfall may be a concern. On the glaciers, watch for crevasses bridged with a thin skin of recent snow its probably difficult to see crevasses that may have been visible just days ago.
In summary it looks like an awesome weekend to be out, things have changed but lots of good options for alpine and rock climbing still exist. Conditions are better in Rogers Pass, the Columbia Icefields and the Bugs. In the Lake Louise area the big serious north face routes will be out of shape, but moderate routes and low elevation (or front range) south/west facing rock should clean off nicely.
Lets hope this sets us up nicely for good mixed climbing in September!
Grant Statham
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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