> Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Interior Ranges.
August 4th, 2005
>
> Summer has finally begun in the Alpine. Twelve generally warm days and
> some cool, clear nights have helped establish a summer snowcover that is
> representative of what we
> might expect in early July. There are reports of excellent alpine
> conditions when good overnight freezes occur, but there was also the
> tragedy of two climbers killed in a large avalanche on the North face of
> Mt. Robson during a very warm and wet period on July 29th.
>
> On August 2nd Park Wardens issued an Avalanche Advisory Update for High
> Alpine Routes in the Mountain National Parks. They are calling the
> conditions SERIOUS/CONSIDERABLE. Until more precipitation arrives,
> alpinists have to make considered decisions almost completely based on the
> question "Is it frozen now or not and is it going to be frozen later or
> not?" Watch the thermometer, watch the skies, watch the sun and don't stop
> thinking about how the snow feels now, and how it is going to feel later,
> on your route. Get your hands and other tools into the snow. Be certain
> that conditions are appropriate for your alpine adventures and be aware
> that things change fast under the summer sun.
>
> Generally the Rockies and Columbia Mountains have more snow cover than
> average for early August. They are starting to get icy below 3000m and in
> some places to the peaks, but high north faces (above 3300m) may still be
> a bit on the wintry side.
>
> Glacier travel is still good for this time of year but you likely won't
> get far without crampons if you get a good freeze. Rockfall is still a
> major concern, especially around the edges of the retreating glaciers and
> where the snow is melting to expose steep rock.
>
> Alpine Rock Routes are generally in great shape except on low angle, high
> elevation ridges and on some of the big gnarly Alpine North Faces like Mt
> Alberta.
> Mixed Alpine routes such as the Andromeda Strain and Edith Cavell North
> Face are very BAD ideas right now with poor climbing conditions and LOTS
> of rockfall potential.
>
> Keep your thinking cap on and enjoy the summer while it lasts.
> >
> >
> Larry Stanier
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.