[MCR] Mount Smuts

Climbed South Ridge of Mount Smuts in K-Country Yesterday(Aug 16). I am quite surprise that this peak is in the Scrambles book, and that more people have not fallen off of it!! After the typical Rockies scree slog, you get on to the ridge, then the next section you climb about 150 meters of exposed low 5th class climbing, and the upper part is 3rd to 4th class. On the 5th class climbing, there is bunch of pins, few of them I pulled with my fingers. I had 3 medium size cams, which I used for one of the belays. There is one brand new bolt and piton on the upper part of the ridge.

On the descent, right where the crux starts, there is a sloping ledge on the west side. I built a station with three pins and was able to rap to the scree gully with a 55 meter rope( a clean rap).

An ok route, but I would not recommend it as a typical scramble!!

Cheers,

Marco

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Marco Delesalle
mdelesalle@telus.net
403/609-5580
cell-403/609-7940

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