NE Ridge of Victoria
August 6, 2005
+12C in Canmore at 3am
+8C in LL at 4am
UP:
Had decent travel with max 10cm foot pen on the way up the glacier.
Approached up the center of the glacier but saw old tracks on both extreme
right (all snow) and way left. Crampons were needed for a few short sections
and the bridges were fine.
Fairly large cornices above the col still with some small snow patches
interspersed.
Minimal foot pen from col to summit (~11am). crampons were helpful.
Down:
Cornices were dripping and looking a lot heavier as we descended from the
col. The small snow patches were very reactive when disturbed and creating
rockfall hazard.(1200pm)
Up to 40 cm foot pen on the glacier as we descended. The bridges were still
fine but in some more days like this it will open up a lot for sure.
All in all this route is in pretty good shape right now as long as the snow
is somewhat set up in the morning. Beware of the cornices above the col.
They look quite stable but definitely could release in the warmth of these
afternoons. They are to either side of the usual ascent line but would/could
threaten the climbing line especially while low down on the slope.
Rob Owens, Mike Stuart, EJ Plimley
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