Sunday July 27, Victoria N Peak
No freeze overnight but still mostly good travel conditions on well settled snow. Crevasses still well bridged. Snow all the way to the col but there will be some rocks starting to show through soon. Upper ridge is still snow but it too will be drying out soon and the snow bypass around the rock step may ice up soon.
Saturday July 28, Takkakaw Falls Route
I'd forgotten how cool this route is! Lots of fun. Bring knee pads.
Saturday July 29, Temple E ridge
Close to perfect conditions on this route. Dry to above the big step, the traverse ledge beneath the black towers is snow and a bit punchy but short, a snow patch up higher in the towers enables fast climbing, otherwise the gully through the towers is dry. The summit ridge is thin snow over ice in the lower section and will require more care soon as it ices up. Crevasses will begin to be an issue soon too.
Close to perfect conditions on this route. Dry to above the big step, the traverse ledge beneath the black towers is snow and a bit punchy but short, a snow patch up higher in the towers enables fast climbing, otherwise the gully through the towers is dry. The summit ridge is thin snow over ice in the lower section and will require more care soon as it ices up. Crevasses will begin to be an issue soon too.
After this the two rope teams split up, one going to the southern Rockies the other to Rogers Pass.
Mark Klassen
Dave Lussier
Mountain Guides