Up the East Ridge yesterday with one guest. The ridge was in good dry condition up to 3000m. Above this 2-5 cm of moist snow and a few short sections of mixed snow and ice that could easily be avoided. We did not use crampons or ice axe.
Very strong SW flow all day bringing warm temps and sporadic natural rock fall down from the col on the approach. The climbers trail to the far left of the col is a good option.
Two extra large tan coloured grizzly bears hanging out together in the Verdant Creek meadows about 250m below the west slopes exit trial. We rallied up with the other climbers coming off the route and descended the drainage as a large group.
Cheers.
Mark Stewart
ACMG Mountain Guide.