gain the ridge before the crux. About 100m before the normal crux we
ascended a bit of an off-width crack. This puts you back on the ridge sooner
for a bit more airy and sporting variation on this route. A couple of pitons
encountered on this portion of the ridge just before the spot the regular
route also gains the ridge. Otherwise nothing unusual to report.
There is no water on the route until you are well down on the descent. Where
the scree peters out near the creek-bed there is only a section of about
100m long during which water can be obtained from the creek where it pops
out of the ground suddenly. The water then dives underground again and you
see no more water until you get to you vehicles. Get it while you can.
Lots of ripe strawberries, raspberries and gooseberries out on this
particular day. Lots of bear scat as well...
Jeremy Mackenzie SG, AAG
Cyril Shokoples Mountain Guide
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