During a short visit to the states to climb with some friends, I had the pleasure to experience some great weather and climbing in the
In general conditions are in transition with crevasses and moat/bergshrunds changing rapidly and without these, access to certain routes and or route options (such as the north sides of the Forbidden Torment traverse) will become very difficult or impassable. There was an unfortunate moat fatality in nearby Klawatti Pk. in July underlining the need approach these features with caution and anticipate that the snow at near the edge could be quite thin and unsupported.
The rock sections of the route were in dry condition but there appears to be more residual snow than usual. We used crampons and ice axes and 1 snow picket on our trip and it seemed that we could find endless placements for our purple 0.5 Camalot (so take 2 ).
The other thing of note were several large slabs of snow gliding on the rockslabs above and climbers left of the higher bivy sites.
If it is your first visit to the Park, please take note that this is a National Park and that you are required to register at the Parks office in
Scott Davis
Mountain Guide