Climbed the route yesterday. The heat from the last few days has dried out the ridge considerably.
We were able to avoid putting crampons on until the summit ridge, but this took some routefinding to avoid spots of verglas. Much quicker than last week. Kept the crampons on until underneath the grey band on the way down.
Saw some terrifying footsteps on the summit cornice, right up to the edge for a good look down the East face...made my stomach turn!
Have fun and play safe!!
Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide
Alpine Guide