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Tuesday, August 19, 2008

[MCR] Loose Pitons on Gooseberry

Up guiding on the rock route Gooseberry (east face of Tunnel Mountain in Banff) yesterday with James Madden. Cleaned a few pins on the route just pulling them out with my fingers.
 
First one I pulled was on the 3rd pitch moving through a series of big yellowish blocks and a big flake. It won't need replacing though, as the moves here are well protected with the bolts placed on the face left of the flake. The second one I pulled was an old stubai ring bolt which was the first piece you get as you move off the station on the 4th pitch, now leaving you with about a 10 or 12 meter runout to another pin which looks equally as horrible.
 
Anyhow if your up there in the near future, and depending on how comfortable you are at the grade (5.8ish), might be worth bringing up a hammer and a couple pins along, if not to place any, than just to give the ones that are left a good test before committing to them.
 
Be safe out there, and enjoy what's left of the summer!
 
 
Mike Trehearne
ACMG - Asst. Rock Guide.