ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Archive: August 2008

Saturday, August 30, 2008

[MCR] Rockies: Lake Louise group

The Assistant Alpine Guide Exam finished today. The last 3 days were spent in the Lake Louise area with one quick foray to K-Country when the weather was really hammering on the divide on Thursday/Friday. Today, Saturday, was good weather with mostly clear and cold conditions. It seemed to have rained quite high, with minimal snow accumulations below 2800 m - just a few cm. At higher elevations there has been a significant amount of new snowfall, however we avoided loaded areas and on the windward side of the higher peaks the new snow has been stripped away making for good climbing conditions on hard snow and ice. New snow and verglas on the rocks will make a rockfall hazard as soon as it warms up.

In the past couple of days we climbed Hector, Little, Buller (K Country), the glacier descending to the north from the Pope's/Whyte col, and explored the Upper Victoria glacier to the schrund.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

[MCR] President, Little Yoho Valley

The last two days have been light rain at tree line and snowing with consistent moderate west winds in the alpine.

As reported, recent snow accumulation on lee slopes in the alpine was up to 60cm or more in wind effected areas and forming wind slab.

Yesterday we noticed some new large cornice development at ridge top and 2 size 2 slab avalanches 50cm deep out of the higher steep exposed terrain on the north side of the President and Vice President.

Cheers

Mark Stewart

ACMG MG

Friday, August 29, 2008

[MCR] Mountain Condition summary for the South Coast of BC. Aug 28th 08

Mountain Condition Summary for the South Coast Aug 28/08

Well conditions this past week have been wet to say the least. I think it's safe to say that everything is wet at the moment.
The forecast for the long weekend looks like things should start to improve Friday night and keep on getting better through Monday.
>From my observations around the Whistler area there is no new snow in the alpine below 3000m (not may peaks above this hight anyway). This means that this weekend may actually not be a bad time to get out in the hills while your waiting for the rock in Squamish to dry off.
If your venturing above 3000m were there may be new snow that has accumulated you will want to be careful of all those hidden crevasses and wind loaded slopes.
It may also be a good time to try out all those south facing alpine rock routes you have always wanted to try. Some of these are routes such as Ashlu, Habrich, Yak, Les Cornes (anderson river group) and the south buttress of Joffre.
Also it sounds as though there are complications for the approach into the Cerise creek area. The logging road approach is currently being deactivated or worked on so the bride a few Kilometer up is gone. This will mean that you should start from the regular winter/ summer trail-head. As well the last logging road bridge over cerise creek just before you get to the old parking area has been removed and replaced with a log. I haven't seen this but I hear that its a bit "sporty" so maybe give your self a bit of extra time to get in.

Have fun, Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] 2 fatal on Mt athabasca, N glacier normal route -avalanche-

Further to my last posting, a party of two did not return to their vehicle
from Mt athabasca Thursday night. Investigation led to observing a rope
leading into a large crevasse filled with avalanche debris. Poor weather,
bad flying conditions, and loss of daylight forced rescue team to revisit
the site this morning (Friday). Located two individuals buried 1.5-2m in
the bottom of the crevasse by mid-morning. On-site investigation revealed
the crown was 40-80cm thick, ~150m wide and ~300m long, size 2.5. The
avalanche occurred sometime between 0930hrs to 1400hrs. The area was
unobserveable for this period. The condition was new snow on old frozen old
snow. See attached picture for exact location of incident. This SAR
response can be attributed to a guided party who had observed the climbers
earlier in the day going along the ramp, then noting that an avalanche had
occurred sometime during the day, and following up with a visit to the
information center staff to report his observations. We appreciate this
type of commitment by the mountain community to take the time to report
conditions and observations to Parks staff at the Icefields center. Tx all.

Also noted this a.m. a size ~3 icefall to the left of the ramp off the nose
of the silverhorn.

With the fresh snow this week, winds, and improving temperatures this
weekend, parties should be observant for potential slab conditions along
their route selections.

be safe.
(See attached file: slide on athabasca aug 28 002.jpg)

Garth Lemke
Public Safety Warden
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide

Garde de parc, Sécurité publique
Guide de ski auxiliaire, Association des guides de montagne canadiens

Jasper National Park of Canada | Parc national du Canada Jasper
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
P.O. Box 10, Jasper AB T0E 1E0 | C.P. 10, Jasper (Alberta) T0E 1E0
Garth.Lemke@pc.gc.ca
Telephone | Téléphone 780-852-6158
Facsimile | Télécopieur 780-852-6135

Cellular Phone | Téléphone cellulaire 780-852-8811
Government of Canada | Gouvernement du Canada
www.pc.gc.ca/jasper

Think GREEN! Please don't print this email unless you really need to.
Soyez ÉCOLO! N'imprimez ce courriel que si vous devez vraiment le faire.

[MCR] Columbia icefields

Just back from the Columbia icefields, Climbed Athabaska on the 26^th via the N glacier ramp. Temps were cool and the new snow was bonding well. There was about 25 to 30cm of new snow on the ramp which seemd to be bonding fairly well.

On the evening of the 27^th it was very windy all night long and we received a little more snow, on the 28^th we climbed A2. On the Boundry glacier I did a hand shear and had easy results down 10cm, 10 cm windslab. Many crevasses are hidden by the new snow and wind which makes route finding interesting. Latter that day we witnessed the avalanche that was reported on the N glacier Ramp on Athabaska. Size 2, 300m long, up to 1m deep and 60 to 80 wide.

With the new snow available for transport and the wind and more snow as of today things will be getting interesting up high on lee aspects.

Be cautious and have fun

Cheers

Todd Craig, MG

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report for the Columbia and Rocky Mountains

This week has seen a change from summer conditions into more fall like
conditions with a series of storms bringing light amounts of snow to most
of the Columbia and Rocky Mountain ranges. Snow levels have dropped to
around 2800m and most high alpine rock routes have a fair bit of fresh
snow and will take several days of sunny weather to get back into shape.

Continued unsettled weather is forecast meaning that lower elevation rock
routes, south facing routes, and the front ranges climbs are the most
likely to be in good shape for the weekend.

The cooler conditions have resulted in better climbing conditions on
alpine snow and ice routes as lowering freezing levels are reducing
rockfall potential and firming up the snowfall from last week.

With the strong winds and new storm snow, instabilities on lee aspects are
developing and are a hazard to watch out for over the coming couple of
days, especially at higher elevations or if we do get a period of warm
weather. As an example, a size 2 avalanche was reported yesterday on the
north side ("Ramp Route") on Mount Athabasca.

At higher elevations the crevasses are becoming lightly covered by the new
snow. A little extra diligence is required in some areas to pick your way
through areas with recent snow accumulations or as you near the edges of
crevasses.

Reports from the Bugaboos have folks finding a few things to climb in the
Crescent Towers but the higher rock routes will need some sunny weather to
come back into shape.

In Rogers Pass snow levels were down to the Uto-Sir Donald Col. There may
be some good options on south facing routes or glacier routes for the
weekend.

In the main ranges of the Rockies expect to find 5-20cm of recent snow
from the last several days with the snow line down to about 2800m and a
dusting of new snow below this on north aspects. Exposed high alpine areas
have had redistribution of snow to form slabs a metre or more thick on the
lee aspects.

The front ranges of the Rockies so far are remaining dry with good
climbing on Eisenhower, Louis, Yam etc. Expect some cooler temperatures
and a dusting of snow on true N aspects.

Still lots of great climbing to be had out there, enjoy the weekend!

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
403.678.8336(cell) or 403.760.0887(home)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/conradjanzenphotos

Thursday, August 28, 2008

[MCR] Perrin Route, Mt Little

Climbed to the Colgan Hut via the Perrin Route yesterday, August
27th. There is a new handline on the second rockband, my thump
testing, by hand, and tapping by hammer led me to conclude that the
topmost bolt has been drilled into a loose block and I suspect that
it will pull out at some point, be cautious.

New snow on the crux rockband and it was tricky getting to the chain.
If I had that 10 meters to climb again I would haul my pack once
anchored into the chain.

August 28th, it was snowing and blowing up there. No Mt Fay today, we
climbed Mt Little, and given that it felt like winter Little was more
than enough of a climb. Small wind slabs forming at ridgeline on the
east aspect.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

[MCR] Bugaboos

Marc Piche (MG) and I, plus 5 guide candidates, just finished 5 days
in the Bugaboos. This morning there was snow to below the Kain Hut and
at our high point of about 2900 m on the Bugaboo Glacier we had 15-20
cm of new snow. Although there was some wind effect, overall it seemed
the new snow was bonding well to the old moist surfaces. This could
easily be different at higher elevations and near ridgecrests where
more snow and wind effect may be forming windslabs. Poor visibility
today kept us from making observations of higher terrain.

It's going to take days of warm weather to bring the spires back into
rock climbing shape.

Mark Klassen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Edith Cavell, E Ridge, Jasper Aug 24

Up the East Ridge yesterday with one guest. The ridge was in good dry condition up to 3000m. Above this 2-5 cm of moist snow and a few short sections of mixed snow and ice that could easily be avoided. We did not use crampons or ice axe.

Very strong SW flow all day bringing warm temps and sporadic natural rock fall down from the col on the approach. The climbers trail to the far left of the col is a good option.

Two extra large tan coloured grizzly bears hanging out together in the Verdant Creek meadows about 250m below the west slopes exit trial. We rallied up with the other climbers coming off the route and descended the drainage as a large group.

Cheers.

Mark Stewart

ACMG Mountain Guide.

www.cirrusalpineguides.com

[MCR] Jasper area

Starting yesterday we starting getting rain intermittently most of
the day. the snow line yesterday morning was about 9500ft. Cavell
looked dusted at the shoulder, much whiter up high. Seems the further
south you looked the more white...
This morning the snow-line is down further with a light dusting on
Indian ridge. Seems much cooler but weather improving.
Cheers,
Peter Amann

Peter Amann
Mountain Guide, ACMG
pamann@incentre.net

[MCR] Rogers Pass

Climbed Rogers Peak S. Ridge and Tupper on the weekend. Both in good condition. Swiss peaks dried off by Sunday. Yesterday (Monday) went up the Illicilewaet Glacier. Lots of rain and heavy cloud obscured visibility. Got glimpses of Sir Donald down low and could not see snow but expect snow line to be moving back down to the col by this morning.

Marc Ledwidge

Monday, August 25, 2008

[MCR] Boundary Ice Tongue, A2

Climbed the Boundary Ice Tongue and A2 today, August 25. Rained all
night last night in the Icefields. Periodic rain today, with snow
above 9500 feet. Ice tongue is in good shape. New snow gives boot top
penetration above 9500 feet, about 10 cm of storm snow above that
elevation (comprised of last night's snow, and late last week's
snow). Bergshrund topping the glacier is interesting with some huge,
deep black holes to balance over. The glacier seems to be pulling
away from the mountain quickly in the last couple of weeks. 5 cm of
whale blubber like snow lying on the rock on top of the mountain. The
Teen Age Mutant Ninga Turtle is hanging in there for his 2nd? decade.

Descent via the Boundary Glacier is scrappy (some front pointing down
scree covered ice), but possible.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

Saturday, August 23, 2008

[MCR] Lake O'Hara neighbourhood-Saturday august 23rd

Perhaps 10-20 cms of recent storm snow above 3000m. Lots of rocks rolling in the alpine and a couple of small wet slides out of steep terrain when the alpine got warm briefly around 11am. The clouds and cool air came in quickly around 11:30am and things quieted down right away. More rocks and snow heading downhill fast out of the steepish alpine if and when it warms up.

Grassi Ridge was dry to the top today. Good views from there, so my guess at other conditions in the area is-

Victoria- snowed up rocks, be wary of small avalanches on the descent to Huber glacier.

Glacier and Lefroy- dry snow over hard ice for now-wet sloughs over hard ice when it warms up.

Odaray- dry enough by sunday.

Hungabee-plastered-death on a stick if it warms up.

Cathedral-good

Schaeffer and Little Odaray-dry

Opabin Glacier/pass- maybe enough snow for a small wet slide into the rocks if it got hot and you were careless and unlucky.

Biddle- who cares?

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

laristan@telus.net

Friday, August 22, 2008

[MCR] Hidden Valley - Jasper Eastern Slopes August 22, 2008

Recent snow visible on Edith Cavell this afternoon looks like it got down to
2900m or perhaps a touch lower. Probably needs a day or two to dry off if
that ever happens. Everything else East of the town and east of the divide
is generally dry as a bone still. Forecast looks OK for the weekend then
perhaps another monsoon.

Had Hidden Valley pretty much to myself today as I did some trail clean up
and route maintenance. Nice warm temps and lots of wind drying things off
really well after the rains of the last three or four days. Cleaned up some
rain-generated rockfall and minor washouts on a few trails.

Got rid of lots of loose blocks from Old Salt. A lot less potential for
rope-generated rockfall now. This together with the new bolts earlier this
year make the route a very fun, easy cruise.

Spent the better part of the afternoon fixing up "Alaska Bob Buys a Jug".
This classic route is now well worth doing and has no horror pitches if you
are OK at the grade. The old 5/16" rusty bolts on the belay for pitch one
have been replace with beefy new stainless bolts and rappel hangers.

Pitch Two (crux) has been fixed to remove the runout and eliminate the
reliance on rusty old sketchy knifeblades. Four bolts were added to the
first twenty meters of the pitch to supplement the less than stellar pins
which you may now choose to ignore. Still a good idea to bring a couple of
screamers for the pins on this pitch and pitch three. Bring your medium cams
(red / yellow Camalots or link cams) for the crack on the last part of this
pitch. Bring eight or nine runners for the route plus a small Rockies rack
with small to medium cams and medium wires.

New belay / rappel bolts put in on top of pitch two to replace the old rusty
5/16" bolts which, much to my horror and surprise, were actually both in a
hollow slab of rock. I almost crapped my pants when I tapped the rock around
the old belay bolts and it all rang hollow! Yikes. I am not the only one who
has belayed off those things for years... The new stainless rappel bolts are
in sound rock just a few feet away. I had to leave the old hangers in place
as I couldn't get the darn things out.

Added a piton and a bolt on the first half of the third pitch to get rid of
some (but not all) of the runout on that pitch. Much better now. Did not get
a chance to beef up the belay pitons on pitch three but they are OK for now.
I will fix this station as well when I get a chance.

New Rappel route description for "Alaska Bob": From the Slab Emporium walk
down the gulley a short distance to the rappel bolts which double as the
belay for pitch four. Just in case you did the right-hand finish on Alaska
Bob, these bolts are on a sound outcrop of rock but not visible from above.
They should be really easy to find and you do not have to commit to
technical terrain to get to them.

All descriptions below are facing down the hill. All rappels on new 10mm
stainless bolts with rappel hangers. No tat required. The first three
rappels are not on the route of ascent but join the route on the top of
pitch two.

Rappel One: 30m - Rappel down the main gulley (some rockfall potential) and
look for a nice spacious ledge almost 30m down on the right-hand side. This
ledge is out of the gulley and protected from most if not all rockfall from
above.

Rappel Two: 20 - 25m - Rappel down steep rock back into the main gulley and
look for a second spacious ledge similar to the last one (i.e. protected and
out of the gulley on the same side - right when looking down).

Rappel Three: 20 - 25m - Rappel over steep rock once again back into gulley.
You will now be at the top of the pitch two (belay station). This is not as
spacious a station as the previous ones.

Rappel Four: 25m - Rappel back down pitch two.

Rappel Five: 15m - Rappel directly below the station on slightly overhanging
rock. End beside trees.

If the weather holds there will be more route repairs and (I hope) one or
two new projects to report.

Enjoy the weekend.

Cyril Shokoples
Mountain Guide

[MCR] August 18 - 20 Boundary Peak & Columbia Icefields

Crappy forecast for the Tuesday and Wednesday made us opt for Boundary Peal
on August 18 via the left-hand side of the North Glacier on Athabasca. Found
the ice to be a bit too steep to risk short roping with a group of five so
pitched out three 50m pitches of relatively straightforward ice. This proved
to be a good thing as one of my guys slipped and would have pulled the whole
train off if we were short-roping. This lower apron is getting steeper and
sketchier these days.

While we were pitching it out an icefall collapse to the far left of us made
some wild rumbling but we didn't get to see the debris as we were too far
around the corner.

Once on the bench above the steeper ice we short roped until we ran into
snow a few hundred meters below the scree. Snow was still in good shape even
with our dismal start. In glacier mode for for the last few hundred meters
to the scree below the AthaB / Boundary col. Easily bypassed the crevasses
on the far left without incident.

>From the col to the summit was easy dry scrambling. Descended the scree on
the N side and then meadows to the car.

Weather went to crap on Tuesday and Wednesday. Huge thunderstorm made for
good light show! The road to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier was closed on
Tuesday and Wednesday due to flooding from the warm temperatures on Monday
followed by deluge on Tuesday and Wednesday. Hard to tell how much snow fell
up high and to what elevation on these two days. When I left the summits
were still socked in but it looked like perhaps snow down to just below
2900m but hard to tell.

Third party report from Thursday is that the AA col route is now ice.

Scrambles in area: Tangle, Wilcox, Sunwapta and Nigel all look bare and dry.
I have no beta on what the last slope on the upper part of Nigel is like so
check before you go.

Cyril Shokoples
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Rogers Pass Area, Glacier Park - August 22nd

After some spectacular summer conditions, the weather has been wet for the past few days in the Rogers Pass area.

The clouds lifted enough this morning to see that the snowline is about two thirds of the way down Sir Donald, and one third of the way down Uto/Eagle/Avalanche. The snow cover looks to be thin, just a dusting. The SW ridge of Uto should be back in shape in a day or two. The NW ridge of Sir Donald could come back into shape as well.

There is a dusting of fresh snow on the Swiss Peaks and Rogers as well. Tupper looks to be just wet but not snowy, and it may dry off with a forecast of a brief weather window today and tomorrow. The snow face on Rogers might also be a good option.

Expect a few rope lengths of hard ice under a thin cover of new snow if you are climbing the NW face of Youngs Peak.

Jordy Shepherd

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Mt. Assiniboine

Came out of Assiniboine today.. I am estimating that over 50cms of snow feel above 3350m. The freezing levels went from below the hut to above the Red Band at times so there will probably be some verglas down low. Cornices, tedious climbing and nasty localized, wet windslabs up to 1m could be expected on the upper ridge.

We watched a big ugly, icefall triggered, wet slab come off Magog at 9am this morning. Assiniboine will be a slush and rockfall disaster during the next couple of warm sunny days. Maybe it will dry off enough to be in shape for the next forecasted bad weather on monday! Bummer!

Gmoser's Highway is dry.

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

laristan@telus.net

Thursday, August 21, 2008

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary report for Rockies and Columbia Mountains Issued August 22nd 2008

The Good News:
The forecast is looking pretty good for the weekend with a mix of sun and cloud and daytime highs in the mid twenties for most towns around the Columbia and Rocky mountains.

The Bad News:
Today’s storm brought the snowline down to ~2500m in most ranges. There have been very few reports of conditions over the past two days due to the wet weather but I have been able to confirm that there is fresh snow accumulating just above treeline and estimates of 5-10cm above that although nobody I talked to had ventured in to the clouds today.

This new snow should clear off the lower sunny aspects by the weekend but you can expect things to be winter like on the shady aspect and these conditions may linger above ~3000m on most aspects as it will take some time to melt with the forecast temperatures.

Things To Watch Out For:
There will probably be increased rockfall hazard as the snow melts away as well as some sluffing on the big snow and ice faces when the sun gets onto them. Be leery of routes that start sunny but have shady climbing up high (NE Ridge Bugaboo Spire). There may also be isolated wind slabs lurking about on terrain features like the ramp traverse on the classic Athabasca North Glacier. It is likely that snow bridges that were just opening up will be hidden again and that steep faces that were bare ice will look snow covered but crampons will be needed. (Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col)

Where To Go?:
Hard to say how much things will get back in to shape by the weekend but I would probably aim for sunnier rock climbs like Yam, stuff around Canmore, Crescent Spire and Towers in the Bugaboos, Castle Mountain, Mount Louis, Mount Colin...for Saturday at least so you can have a look at conditions up high before you commit.

See you out there.

--
Marc Piché
ACMG Mountain Guide

Wednesday, August 20, 2008

[MCR] Rockies: Assiniboine

Just got out of the Assiniboine area today. We climbed the peak on Aug 18 and it was completely dry, no crampons or ice axe required. The storm from last night and today however put snow on the peak to well beneath the red band. It will take a couple of warm days to dry it off again.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Grassi Lakes, Rocky Mountains

The upper section of Grassi Lakes climbing area is now open!

This was a cooperative effort between government agencies and groups representing the climbing and hiking community.

IMPORTANT:

The hazard created by the slumping gabions (rock baskets) has been removed. During the removal, several of the gabions broke open and spilled loose rock onto the slope. The slope was hand stabilized by settling or rolling the loose rock into the canyon. However, there is still a slightly elevated hazard in the fall area between Deviant on Swamp Buttress and Carom on White Imperialist Left. It is STRONGLY recommend that climbers and hikers avoid Carom and Spin on White Imperialist Left and any climbing on Swamp Buttress North (Deviant) for the rest of this season. This will give the area above a chance to further stabilize over the winter. The area is signed.

Some caution should also be exercised in the area around Blunt on the Rectory. Several rocks fell in this area and early ascents should check the integrity of anchors and bolts.

The following groups were involved in the joint effort to reopen the upper canyon:

Alberta Parks and Recreation

Department of Transport

Association of Bow Valley Rock Climbers (TABVAR)

Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG)

Alpine Club of Canada (ACC)

Climbers Access Society of Alberta (CASA)

Calgary Mountain Club (CMC)

A special thanks to Mike Radik and Scott McKay who worked alongside myself to hand stabilized the upper slope.

Chris Miller

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Tuesday, August 19, 2008

[MCR] Loose Pitons on Gooseberry

Up guiding on the rock route Gooseberry (east face of Tunnel Mountain in Banff) yesterday with James Madden. Cleaned a few pins on the route just pulling them out with my fingers.

First one I pulled was on the 3rd pitch moving through a series of big yellowish blocks and a big flake. It won't need replacing though, as the moves here are well protected with the bolts placed on the face left of the flake. The second one I pulled was an old stubai ring bolt which was the first piece you get as you move off the station on the 4th pitch, now leaving you with about a 10 or 12 meter runout to another pin which looks equally as horrible.

Anyhow if your up there in the near future, and depending on how comfortable you are at the grade (5.8ish), might be worth bringing up a hammer and a couple pins along, if not to place any, than just to give the ones that are left a good test before committing to them.

Be safe out there, and enjoy what's left of the summer!

Mike Trehearne
ACMG - Asst. Rock Guide.

Sunday, August 17, 2008

[MCR] Mount Sir Donald - August 16

Climbed Sir Donald NW Ridge with one client on August 16th. Nice to have an ice axe on the approach to the col and on the descent on the summit by-pass. Six parties on the route. Perfect weather. 14 hours car to car.

Report of a party attempting the east face of Sir Donald, turning back due to the maze of seracs and crevasses. They climbed the east ridge of Uto instead.

Jordy Shepherd

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Ha Ling NE Face

I did another trip up Ha Ling's NE Face today and replaced the missing bolt hangers on pitch 7 and 9 so the route is again in its usual condition.

Jorg Wilz

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Jasper East Slopes rock climbing

Stinking hot in Jasper for last two days (thirty plus degrees). Lots of snow disappeared like every else in the Rockies. Everything east of Jasper is now bone dry and water is an issue on just about everything now.

Morro Slabs: this popular practice area next to the road now has a bunch of additional bolts (perhaps Matt put them in... not sure?) In any case there are now four sets of bolts just below the big traditional belay ledge to make it cleaner to do bell ringer / yo-yo style top-roping from below. No more long slings required for the four routes on far climber's right. There are also a half dozen single bolts at ground level to anchor light belayers. Check on the boulders down below to find these bolts.

Hidden Valley: A couple more bolt hangers have been replaced with rappel hangers above Crescent Crack and Crescent Corner making it possible to rap off without leaving tat. Light breeze today kept the plus 30 temperatures from being broiler oven intensity. Made a very early start to beat the sun. Actually quite cool for the first two pitches until the oven got switched on...

Should start cooling off beginning tomorrow...

Cyril Shokoples

Mountain Guide

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[MCR] East Ridge of Mt Edith Cavell, Rockies

Had a great day out on the East Ridge of Mt. Edith Cavell yesterday, descending the scramble route down the SW face.

We used crampons to climb the snow on the approach to the col at the base of the East Ridge, however it would be easy to avoid the snow using the trails in the scree further climbers left.

The East ridge is in great shape with dry rock and a few bits of snow which were either avoidable or had good snow for kicking steps with the warm temperatures. We used ice axes in several spots on the route, but did not need crampons. The descent down the SW face is completely dry.

Of note were 4-5 very large piles of fresh grizzly scat (not quite steaming but close) on the trail out below the SW face. We made a lot of noise as we walked and found the 'Bear in Area' sign upon arriving back at the Parking Lot.

Enjoy the great conditions!

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide

Saturday, August 16, 2008

[MCR] Rockies: Deltaform

Climbed Deltaform via the NW Ridge, Sat Aug 16. The peak is dry, there are some snow patches but they are avoidable. No crampons/ice axe required.

I think that this route is harder than the given grade of 5.5, there are quite a few short, bouldery, hard bits on it (including a killer 10 m long hand crack). That said, the rock on it is pretty good and usually when you are pulling hard it is usually on good, solid holds and mostly decent protection. Don't get me wrong, there is Rockies rubble on it, but with careful routefinding it is as good or better than some other similar Rockies classics. But be prepared for a long day no matter how you shake it and I recommend a high camp on Neptuak, there is a great bivy corral at 3000m that you can squeeze a tiny tent onto.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Little Wapta Traverse: Bow Hut - Peyto Hut Aug 14 - 16.

The heat wave is taking its toll on the glaciers. The headwall on Bow Glacier above the Bow Hut is now snow free (except for a thin strip on climbers right). At the Peyto Glacier the snow coverage has retreated with the heat to well above the hut elevation. warm temps overnight under clear skies without any overnight refreeze of the surface. Travel was still well manageable with ankle-high foot pen in the wet snow. Crampons are definitely recommended for the trip.

Cheers,

Jorg Wilz

Mountain Guide

Friday, August 15, 2008

[MCR] Lake O'Hara

Climbed Victoria from Abbott's and down Huber today. Victoria S ridge is in good shape but still some icy ridge to negotiate near the summit. Huber glacier descent was in the best august condition I have seen for years.

Lefroy and Hungabee look nasty right now. One has too little snow and one has too much. I bet you can figure that one out. Everything else is in good shape but the warm days are definetly disturbing the balance in the stacked rocks. Start early and beware the sun effect.

Larry Stanier

ACMF/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Assiniboine

Climbed the route yesterday. The heat from the last few days has dried out the ridge considerably.

We were able to avoid putting crampons on until the summit ridge, but this took some routefinding to avoid spots of verglas. Much quicker than last week. Kept the crampons on until underneath the grey band on the way down.

Saw some terrifying footsteps on the summit cornice, right up to the edge for a good look down the East face...made my stomach turn!

Have fun and play safe!!

Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide

[MCR] NE Ridge of Sir Donald, Selkirk Mountains

Had a great day on the NE Ridge of Sir Donald yesterday with Jeremy Mackenzie and 2 guests!

There are a few patches of snow to cross on the approach to the Sir Donald-Uto Col. We used ice axes to cross them early in the morning.

The ridge is in excellent shape, dry and clean. We descended from the summit via the West Face Bypass. The Bypass still has several snow patches and a few icy steps. We were happy to have ice axes for crossing the steeper snow and cutting a few steps.

Great info on the rappel descent is available from the visitor centre in Rogers Pass. Rockfall is a concern on the lower rappels if other parties are above you.

The lower bivy site is a great spot to spend the night with good water, nice tent sites, food storage, and a toilet.

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Sir Donald NE Ridge, Selkirk Mountains

Had a great day on the NE Ridge of Sir Donald yesterday with Jeremy Mackenzie and 2 guests!

There are a few patches of snow to cross on the approach to the Sir Donald-Uto Col. We used ice axes to cross them early in the morning.

Great info on the rappel descent is available from the visitor centre in Rogers Pass. Rockfall is a concern on the lower rappels if other parties are above you.

The lower bivy site is a great spot to spend the night with good water, nice tent sites, food storage, and a toilet.

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] East Ridge Mt Temple

Climbed the East Ridge of Temple via the traverse to the exit gullies
yesterday. The route is in good shape, but there are cornices
lingering over the exit gullies and they are spooky in the heat of
the day on days as warm as yesterday. Lots of running water with the
occasional rock and chunks of snow being spat down the gully. Patches
of winter ice hanging on, we climbed with crampons and one ice hammer
each, I placed the two screws that I was carrying. Glacier traverse
is showing ice in a number of places and there are a couple of
crevasses opening up.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Thursday, August 14, 2008

[MCR] Joy - K-country, Rockies - August 9, 2008

Climbed Joy today with a friend. Short-roped the first 60 - 100m then did
about ten pitches of roughly 50m each. A number of pitons encountered on the
route, mostly single pitons at belay stations. Found that bringing LOTS of
small cams was a great idea plus the normal Rockies rack. Used more medium
sized wired nuts rather than the large or small but this route definitely
eats up smaller cams like they are going out of style.

If you are not comfortable with runouts bring tons of smaller cams as most
of the belay stations require you to build using gear and that often eats up
two or three cams per station and thus pieces can be used simply on stations
alone. I took size 1, 2, 3 TCUs and a set of size .3 to 3 Camalots plus a
full set of wires. Could have used one or two more smaller cams but was able
to live without them by belaying early on one pitch.

Tried to download the Kananaskis Obscure guide from TABVAR but had issues
getting logged on to the TABVAR site for the last month. Not much beta
necessary once you find the route. Follow the right corner! Bring lots of
small gear. Bring lots of water.

Bring bear spray. Lots of evidence of recent bear diggings just past where
you gain the meadows. Little wonder as you exit onto prime bear habitat!

Cyril Shokoples
Mountain Guide

[MCR] [MCR} August 6 - Brewer's Buttress - Castle Mountain, Banff

We had a nice pleasant day on Brewer's with nothing unusual to report and
all the bolted station on route in good shape. Nothing more to report since
Jorg's informative post except for the fact that since the temperatures have
been seasonal lately the water supply in the gulley was getting pretty
scarce. We had to do some mining to get enough flow to fill our water
bottles. Since the forecast is for scorching temperatures I would think that
the remaining snow blobs may not last much longer and the water supply may
soon go dry.

I met a few folks who did not know about the new rappel stations on the
climber's right hand side of the descent gulley. Since the TABVAR site seems
to have some big issues these days it is a good idea if you also get the
descent beta from someone before you head off. That way you can avoid the
old rappels on tat and simply rappel off the bolted stations.

Jeremy Mackenzie SG, AAG
Cyril Shokoples Mountain Guide

[MCR] MCR - Mt. Lorette - K country - August 5 2008

Jeremy, Arian and I climbed Lorette via the ridge. Did an alternate route to
gain the ridge before the crux. About 100m before the normal crux we
ascended a bit of an off-width crack. This puts you back on the ridge sooner
for a bit more airy and sporting variation on this route. A couple of pitons
encountered on this portion of the ridge just before the spot the regular
route also gains the ridge. Otherwise nothing unusual to report.

There is no water on the route until you are well down on the descent. Where
the scree peters out near the creek-bed there is only a section of about
100m long during which water can be obtained from the creek where it pops
out of the ground suddenly. The water then dives underground again and you
see no more water until you get to you vehicles. Get it while you can.

Lots of ripe strawberries, raspberries and gooseberries out on this
particular day. Lots of bear scat as well...

Jeremy Mackenzie SG, AAG
Cyril Shokoples Mountain Guide

[MCR] Icefall lodge area

Just back from a week in Icefall lodge 07 to 14. The storms that came through on the weekend left about 10 to 15cm above 2700m but that is mostly gone now except for high N aspects I presume. Climbed Mt Kemmel, Alien PK and did some hiking and scrambling.

Cheers

Todd Craig, MG

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

[MCR] Mt. Victoria - North Summit

Guided a guest up the NE ridge of the North summit of Victoria. At 0400 a.m 3 degrees at the parking lot of Chateau Lake Louise. On the Summit was very cold I did not check the temps, but I wore everything I had including my winter ice climbing gloves. I climbed the ridge direct with the 5.3 rock step. Most of the rock was iced up-made for interesting climbing. Overall the weather was overcast to white- out depending on elevation, and very windy. The Victoria glacier still has excellent snow coverage and the bergschrund at the base of the head- wall is well filled in.

All the best,

Marco Delesalle
IFMGA Mountain guide

[MCR] Gear at Glacier Circle Hut

The Glacier Park Warden Service has a report from a solo climber that he injured his hand in a rockfall event on Hasler Peak last week. He descended to Glacier Circle, and then hiked out over the Illecilewaet Neve to seek medical attention. He has apparently left some equipment at the Glacier Circle Hut, as well as at a basecamp at the base of Mount Selwyn. We have plans to pick up his equipment by helicopter within the next week or so.

In the meantime, if you see the gear at the Hut, gear and food cache at the base of Selwyn, or read his account in the hut logbook or the summit register, do not be alarmed.

Cheers,

Jordy Shepherd

Mountain Guide

Park Warden

[MCR] Grand Sentinel rockfall

Was climbing on the Grand Sentinel yesterday and witnessed a large rockfall/slide around noon that started in one of the deep snow gullies coming from Pinnacle Peak. The slide, which had fridge size blocks in it, took out a good part of the upper approach trail (contouring NW from Sentinel Pass). It would have fatal if there were people on the trail at the time.

Although its a bit longer, dropping down into Paradise Valley and then hiking up underneath the Sentinel is a much safer option. It is however a bit of a grunt as there isn't much of a defined trail to follow.

Have fun and play safe!

Cheers

Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide

Tuesday, August 12, 2008

[MCR] Ha Ling NE Face

Quiet day on the NE face of Ha Ling today. Of note is the dissappearance of two bolt hangers: 1) Pitch 6 is missing the hanger on the bolt that is protecting the (already) run out crux section, where the rising traverse to the right climbs up steeply for about 6 meters to the next bolt. 2) Pitch 8 (The one before reaching the big dihedral) is missing the bolt hanger right above the belay, which is protecting a slabby traverse to the right and helps to avoid a factor 2 fall. Both bolts are crucial for leaders whose grade level is at 5.6 or 5.7 and the dissappearance makes those two pitches quite hazardous for the time being.

Stay safe,

Jorg Wilz

Mountain Guide

Monday, August 11, 2008

[MCR] Monashee Mtns

Up to 5 cm recent storm snow down to 2200 m in Mt Copeland area from storms over last few days. Crevasses slowly starting to emerge on N aspects. Winter snow still near bottom of glaciers.

Craig Ellis

[MCR] Yoho Peaks

Climbed from 8-11 in the Stanley Mitchell area
President glacier had excellent coverage and travel despite warm
temperatures (+6C in AM).
The Bergshrund near the col was well bridged further climbers right
although where the tracks were (near the edge) it was less than a
meter thick. The cornice above the 'schrund' as mentioned in earlier
posts has mostly fallen off with some smaller chunks still hanging on.

The glacier up to MacArthur peak was just the same.

Snowed last night down to 2400m and didn't look like it was going
anywhere, especially on North aspects.

Steve Holeczi
MG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] A2, August 9th, bigger picture

If it doesn't choke.

Sunday, August 10, 2008

[MCR] Fairy Meadow -- Adamants/Gothics

Back from a wonderful week of alpine climbing at Fairy Meadow/Putnam Hut
with a bunch of ACCers.

Weather throughout the most of the week was sunny and warm. Overnight
temps at the start of the week (Aug 3-5) were cool (lows of 8-10 C at
the hut) with decent radiation freezes on the ice. Midweek (Aug 6-8)
temps were warmer (lows of 10-13 C) with no overnight freezes to
mountain tops.

In the afternoons on the warmest days wet snow avalanches to size 2 were
observed on solar aspects (e.g. Adamant S face), along with a few
cornice failures and much rockfall.

On Friday the weather became unsettled and temps began to cool a little
with afternoon thundershowers. Friday night was clear with a good
radiation freeze giving a 3 cm crust above 9,500 ft Saturday morning. By
10 am on Saturday another storm came through with rain that turned the
crusted surface to slush up to the top of Austerity (~11,000 ft).

This morning we awoke to significantly colder temps (low of 4 C
overnight at the hut) and snow above 10,000 ft.

Routes climbed by those staying at the hut this week included rock
climbs and ridge scrambles on Quadrant, the Adamant-Austerity Traverse
via Adamant's E ridge, Ironman Bypass with N Ridge Ironman descent,
Ironman's Gibson/Rohn, Fria traverse (E-W), Gothics East Peak N Ridge,
Pioneer, Toadstool, Pioneer Pass ice face, and Shoofly Arete (loose, not
recommended).

Conditions were mostly excellent with good travel in the mornings. Very
early starts were a must this week for the high alpine routes, and by
midweek we were avoiding exposure to bigger solar alpine features.
Bridging on the ice is still good although bergschrunds are starting to
gape. Many open crevasses are still thinly hidden by July's storm snow,
but throughout the week these have been opening up as the storm snow
melts down to the old winter surface with the warm temps and rain.

Thanks again to John, Shelley and Tim for organising this amateur trip,
and of course the ACC.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

Saturday, August 9, 2008

[MCR] Assiniboine

Spent the last 5 days at the Hind Hut. To add to Barry's post the North Ridge has dried out a "little" bit.

On Tuesday it still required crampons from below the Red band to the summit but the snow patches were melting quickly. We rappelled all the way down the upper ridge until we were underneath the Red band again (15+ raps).

Cornices/snow mushrooms were falling down the East face all day and the summit cornice is quite large right now, requiring a lot of respect.

The snow just to the right of the glacier was offering good travel to the base of the ridge, letting you avoid the scree trail.

We were 13 hours - 6 up and 7 down - start early!!

Two grizzlies in the Magog campground on Thursday.

Have a great weekend!

Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide

[MCR] North Cascades WA - Boston Basin - Torment Forbidden - Aug. 5-7

During a short visit to the states to climb with some friends, I had the pleasure to experience some great weather and climbing in the Boston Basin area.

In general conditions are in transition with crevasses and moat/bergshrunds changing rapidly and without these, access to certain routes and or route options (such as the north sides of the Forbidden Torment traverse) will become very difficult or impassable. There was an unfortunate moat fatality in nearby Klawatti Pk. in July underlining the need approach these features with caution and anticipate that the snow at near the edge could be quite thin and unsupported.

The rock sections of the route were in dry condition but there appears to be more residual snow than usual. We used crampons and ice axes and 1 snow picket on our trip and it seemed that we could find endless placements for our purple 0.5 Camalot (so take 2 ).

The other thing of note were several large slabs of snow gliding on the rockslabs above and climbers left of the higher bivy sites.

If it is your first visit to the Park, please take note that this is a National Park and that you are required to register at the Parks office in Marblemount, WA – sites are limited – please check with them regarding booking policies.

Scott Davis

Mountain Guide

Friday, August 8, 2008

[MCR] Bugaboos Aug 8

High season in the Bugaboos with the Kain Hut booked out for the last three nights and I counted 35 tents at Applebee yesterday - supposedly it was close to 60 tents last weekend!

Glaciers are still snow covered and the approaches for Pigeon West Ridge and Bugaboo Spire NE Ridge were manageable without crampons, if it had to be. Bugaboo - Snowpatch col is still in pretty good condition, however the bergschrund is opening up quickly. The track is set to cross the bergschrund on climbers right and the gap appears small but the edges are overhanging!

Bugaboos NE ridge had a surprising amount of snow left in the chimney pitches but it was well manageable for someone who masters the grade. Same for Pigeon West Ridge, where the last pitch is quite snowy and boots (vs. climbing shoes) come in handy. Last year I hade noticed that the second rappel station form the summit of Pigeon was in bad shape (I think one of the two bolts or bolt hangers was dangling on the chain....) but some good soul must have fixed it in the meantime! Also, the descent via Bugaboo Glacier currently travels well and only one crevasse close to the Pigeon Howser Col requires a bit of negotiating.

Jorg Wilz

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Rockies: Temple

A day off and a jaunt up the Greenwood-Jones route on Temple Thursday Aug 7. The recent snow above 3000m Grant mentioned in his summary has burned off most of this north facing route, just some teeny patches above 3000m. I suspect the black towers on the E Ridge will be back to the shape they were in a week ago, e.g. good.

The summit ridge is baring off and is getting to be a pain in the butt to deal with due to thin snow over ice or bare ice on the steeper terrain forcing you onto the snowier, flatter terrain on the cornices; and cleaves (cracks) between the cornice and the glacier. There are a couple of small crevasses on the trail leading up the summit ridge too.

That all said, there is still a fair bit of residual winter snow left on all the high peaks in the Lake Louise group, they don't seem to be in the bone-dry condition that we have become used to at this time of the season over the past few years.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

Erica Roles

Assistant Rock Guide

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

[MCR] Mt Victoria, Mt Huber, Louise Group

Up Victoria's SE Ridge today out Huber Ledges. The ridge on Victoria was in good shape, half dry rock and half snow, crampons to the summit.

The decent on the SW face from the ridge to Mt Huber is also good traveling on snow with a well bridged shrund.

The Huber Glacier still has good snow coverage and the ledges were snow free.

Mt Lefroys W Face route looked and was reported to be in good shape but snow coverage is getting thin.

Cheers

M Stewart IFMGA

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

[MCR] Mt Assinaboine

Climbed the normal North ridge route on Aug 3rd. Crampons on from 100
meters below the Red Band. Mixed snow over rock climbing on the upper
half of the mountain made for a slow ascent and descent. This week's
forecasted heat should put the route back into good and dry shape in
a couple of days. Gmoser highway was dry.

The East snow arete of Mt Strom is in good shape, climbed on the 2nd.

Happy trails

Monday, August 4, 2008

[MCR] Hudson Bay Mountain 4 Apr 08

During a crevasse rescue course on Kathlyn Glacier, we observed the snow
line at 1750 m. Travel is good on firm snow above even in the afternoon.
Some large cornices remain on the approach to the South summit. Those
are very hard to see when climbing that peak from the Smithers ski hill
and require a determined descent of 20 m just before the final scramble.
The bergschrunds are now wide open throughout.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide

Saturday, August 2, 2008

[MCR] Mount Rexford, West Side, Chilliwack Valley

---------- Forwarded message ----------

From: Jia Condon
Date: Jul 29, 2008 6:29 PM
Subject: Mount Rexford, West Side, Chilliwack Valley
To: mcr@informalex.org, coastalex@informalex.org

Up the West Ridge of Mount Rexford [last] weekend. Chilliwack South FSR
has been recently excavated due to current logging and is in excellent
condition well past the Slesse trail head. This was just done on the
25th, so we were pleasantly surprised on the morning of the 26th. Even
saw a 2WD parked at the Slesse trail head.

Slesse pocket glacier looked in rough shape and not very user friendly.
Trail up west side is in great shape but the first 150m in the old
logging slash could use a little love!

Found running water (snow melt) just down from the ridge bivy, gotta
love free water in the hills! Snow was used to gain the West ridge (no
crampons or ice axe were used), otherwise the ridge was snow free. We
experienced everything from sun to hail on Sun the 27th.

play hard and safe

Jia Condon
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide/Professional Recreationalist

Friday, August 1, 2008

[MCR] Maxim Rope Recall

Hi folks,

Please take note of the recall notice below.

Peter tucker

ACMG Executive Director

NEWS from CPSC

U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission
Office of Information and Public Affairs Washington, DC 20207
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
July 29, 2008
Release #08-346

Firm's Recall Hotline: (866) 617-9038
CPSC Recall Hotline: (800) 638-2772
CPSC Media Contact: (301) 504-7908

New England Ropes Recalls Climbing Lines Due to Fall Hazard
WASHINGTON, D.C. - The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed.

Name of Product: Maxim Apogee and Maxim Pinnacle Dynamic Climbing Lines/Ropes

Units: About 530

Manufacturer: New England Ropes, of Fall River, Mass.

Hazard: The climbing lines can break, posing a serious fall hazard for climbers.

Incidents/Injuries: None.

Description: Two types of climbing ropes have been included in this recall, the Maxim Apogee 9.1mm and Maxim Pinnacle 9.5mm. The Maxim Apogee 9.1mm is a 48 carrier climbing rope. The colors are yellow and black, and red and yellow. The model numbers are 3411-91 and 3415-91, with date codes 060801 thru 080601. The UPC codes are: 75396312299, 75396312298, 75396312301, and 75396312300. The Maxim Pinnacle 9.5mm is a blue 48 carrier climbing rope. The Model number is 3403-95, with date codes 070201 thru 080601. The UPC codes are 75396312292 and 75396312293. The date codes and the UPC codes are on the original packaging.

Sold at: Retailers nationwide from August 2006 through June 2008 for between $180 and $262.

Manufactured in: United States

Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the recalled dynamic climbing lines and contact the manufacturer for a free replacement.

Consumer Contact: For more information, consumers can contact New England Ropes toll-free at (866) 617-9038 anytime or visit the firm's Web site at www.neropes.com/Climbing.aspx
�

9.1 mm Apogee � Yellow

9.1 mm Apogee Fire - Red

9.5 mm Pinnacle � Blue

_______________________________________________

[MCR] Selkirks: Mt Tupper W Ridge

Dave Lussier climbed the W Ridge of Tupper Thursday July 31 and reported fresh snow on the Rogers Pass peaks from storms on July 30. Tupper was slippery but doable. Tupper dried out over the day but the higher summits such as the Swiss Peaks and Sir Donald retained the snow. The weather in the Pass was not nearly as good as in the Rockies, with clouds and showers coming in the afternoon of the 31st.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Rockies: Mt Harrison

We climbed the SW face of Mt Harrison, the southernmost 11 thousander in the Rockies, on Thursday July 31.

Access is via logging roads up the White River and Bull River. The last 5 km up the Bull is rough with three washouts requiring careful driving, 4WD and a standard SUV high-ish clearance vehicle. Corbett's description in his guidebook is accurate. 5 hrs from Banff to the end of the Bull River road.

There was a touch of snow above 9500 ft on shaded aspects from storms the night of July 29. The SW face route is dry though, up til the last 1200 ft or so, where snow gullies can be linked all the way to the summit ridge. It is hard winter snow that required crampons.

The N Face looked like it was still very climbable although probably about 2 weeks past its prime. There is a lot of ice showing now. An early start would be required as it looks like there is a lot of potential for stonefall, especially with the bit of new snow on the ledges above the route. There are very nice bivy spots in the upper valley all the way from treeline to the end of the meadows in the moraines.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Rockies: Victoria N, E Ridge Temple

Dave Lussier and I have been bouncing around the ranges since last weekend:

Sunday July 27, Victoria N Peak

No freeze overnight but still mostly good travel conditions on well settled snow. Crevasses still well bridged. Snow all the way to the col but there will be some rocks starting to show through soon. Upper ridge is still snow but it too will be drying out soon and the snow bypass around the rock step may ice up soon.

Saturday July 28, Takkakaw Falls Route

I'd forgotten how cool this route is! Lots of fun. Bring knee pads.

Saturday July 29, Temple E ridge
Close to perfect conditions on this route. Dry to above the big step, the traverse ledge beneath the black towers is snow and a bit punchy but short, a snow patch up higher in the towers enables fast climbing, otherwise the gully through the towers is dry. The summit ridge is thin snow over ice in the lower section and will require more care soon as it ices up. Crevasses will begin to be an issue soon too.

After this the two rope teams split up, one going to the southern Rockies the other to Rogers Pass.

Mark Klassen

Dave Lussier

Mountain Guides

[MCR] North Ridge of Mt Athabasca July 31

Climbed the North ridge of Mt Athabasca yesterday. Traversed the
normal North Glacier route and gained the ridge at about the 9500
foot level, several pitches below the crux, via a snow and scree
gully. Tues/Wed snows have coated many of the holds, especially on
the north side of things, with snow and verglas. I'd wait for dry
conditions and hot days before heading back there.

Happy trails

Search MCR

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U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission

New England Ropes Recalls Climbing Lines Due to Fall Hazard