the north via the western lobe of the north glacier, and then climbed the
west face (PD, 4th/5.0). Descended same route with downclimbing and two 20m
raps. Travel conditions were excellent on the glacier with mostly dry ice
below 2900m. Where there is still snow on the glacier the bridges felt solid
due to a very good freeze overnight. The summit rock band was mostly dry,
but found snow and ice in most cracks and corners. The light dusting of snow
from the night of Sept. 11 had almost entirely melted off by afternoon.
Overall the Purcells appear very dry and conditions are excellent. From a
distance the Bugaboos also appear fairly dry, but I would suspect the cracks
to be snowy and/or icy given what we saw on our climb.
Have fun out there.
Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG Ski Guide, Asst. Alpine Guide
26-640 Upper Lakeview Rd
Invermere BC V0A1K3
CANADA
250-342-5013
jeremymackenzie@hotmail.com
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.