The snow line from last weeks storms was around 2900-3000 meters. We
put crampons on roughly half way to the red band and they remained on
to the summit and back to that point. There was enough accumulation of
snow higher up (up to 50cm/s in places) where ice axes increased
security and were also useful for cutting steps.
Good mixed conditions through the red and grey bands, with smaterings
of water ice here and there. (a stubby ice screw could come in handy).
Holds were readily available, and not covered with snow where it
mattered.
Fixed anchors above technical climbing were in good shape. (Lots of
slings!)
Foam mattresses in the hut are getting a bit worn out. Some people
opted to take a therma rest for some extra padding.
Aaron Beardmore
Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.