Carl Johnson and I climbed the Waterman Couloir on Mt Stanley yesterday. As mentioned in the mountain conditions summery yesterday the new snow on the glacier is doing a great job of hiding the crevasses but providing no new strength to the snow bridges. This makes for slow travel and lots of probing.
It was possible to pass the burgshrund on the right by climbing a mixed pitch which went through an ice tunnel. The couloir was good climbing with access to good ice screws through out.
By the time we reached the base of the couloir on our descent it was snowing heavily and approximately 10cm of snow had fallen. Sluffs where beginning to come down the couloir and winds had picked up. I would expect to find wind slabs in lee and cross loaded terrain features today.
Jesse de Montigny
ACMG Ski Guide
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide