I just returned from a few days in the Bugaboos. As reported many times this summer, the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col is in appalling condition with much loose rock exposed and poised to fall. We climbed the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire (on Wednesday, Sept 5) but completely avoided the col by approaching via the Bugaboo Glacier under the south faces of Snowpatch and Pigeon Spire. This still has its own hazards with large boulders perched on the glacial tongue ready to slide once lubricated by daytime warming. Snow bridges and plugs were frozen hard in the am but rotted junk in the pm. Aggressive probing is recommended. The west ridge itself was dry but that all changed yesterday as it now sports a fresh coat of snow. Temperatures on Thursday and Friday were cold (just above 0 C at 9am) and not conducive to enjoyable barehanded free climbing prompting a mass exodus. The hut was completely empty when we left yesterday morning.
Sean Isaac
Assistant Alpine Guide