Hello folks.
The two shorter ice faces on the right side of the N Face are now in dry conditions. The longer ice routes are bony at the bottom but still covered with frozen snow that increases in depth as you climb higher providing good ice climbing. Shrunds are all passable and fairly strait forward to cross. Yesterday the temps on the N Face were just below 0 early morning, above by mid day. The ridge and rock on Mt Little above the hut as well as most of the local peaks in the Louise group are now dry and free of snow. Almost all recent new snow on the glaciers is also gone and travel is strait forward. The continuing SW flow and mid day warming trend will change the ice conditions fast.
Cheers.
M Stewart Mountain Guide
Cirrus Alpine Guides