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Sunday, September 16, 2007

[MCR] Bugaboos

Spent the last four days in the Bugaboos with perfect weather and next to no crowds.  Climbed  NE Ridge of Bugaboo on Thursday.  The route is hardly "in shape" with all of the chimney pitches covered in between 5 and 20cms of snow with ice underneath making for very slow and tedious climbing.  The traverse between the summits was all snow and  75% of the route was climbed with gloves on.  Good times...
 
Yesterday we climbed the Snowpatch route which was much nicer due to its aspect.  We noticed fresh bear tracks coming up the Crescent glacier, over the Snowpatch - Son of Snowpatch col then down to the Bugaboo glacier and back towards the hut.!  Adventurous bear!!
 
Lots of rockfall observed around Bugaboo and Crescent Spires.  We had a fridge size block let loose underneath us at the base of Lion's Way Friday morning.  The Bugaboo - Snowpatch col has not improved since Sean's posting last week.  Overnight temperatures were very warm (9 degrees at 3:30AM).  Snowpatch Pigeon rappel route was used.
 
Fantastic new trail from the Kain hut up to Applebee...thank you to the trail crew!!
 
Cheers
 
Mike Stuart   
Alpine Guide