I would change this sentence in the above description to:
"When you come to these rock steps go left and down ~100 m to find obvious weaknesses"
to read 30 m
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
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Saturday, September 29, 2007
[MCR] ESE Ridge Mt Lady MacDonald
Eric Dumerac and I scrambled the the ESE Ridge of Mt Lady MacDonald today. Snow from the valley floor to the top, lots of damp rock and bare hands pressed into damp snow. Dry snow on the high eastern aspects, never deeper than 15 cms. Difficult conditions for this route, I'd call it more of a solo than a scramble right now. Good info on getting to the start of the route here at Everett Fee's webpage:
Thursday, September 27, 2007
[MCR] MCR Summary - September 27
Mountain Conditions Summary – Rockies and Interior Ranges
Issued: Thursday, September 27, 2007
A cool and generally unstable past week of weather in the mountains, with a mix of blue sky, cloudy days and overnight lows down to -6 in Jasper. Winter appears firmly entrenched in the high elevations now, with over half a meter of new snow deposited as of Monday (24th). Not much additional snow since then - but no melting also.
Reports from the Bugaboos of 30-60 cm of settled snow on the glaciers, with most of the rock climbing now done for the year – perhaps there might be some hope for the low elevation south facing rocks to dry off, but that’s not a good bet. Consider the place done for the season, unless you’re sharpening your tools. Could the ice hose be forming?
A flight through the Lake Louise area today confirmed the same thing, with lots of snow in the alpine and no apparent melting over the past week. The best bet for any technical alpine climbing right now would be to hunt for ice runnels, which are just starting to form up in the gullies. If the cold weather persists and we get another clear spell, then October might offer some interesting mixed possibilities.
Glacier travel ok in all areas with a settled snowcover to walk on, but the hunt for crevasses has become quite challenging. This is a tough time of year to navigate crevasses, when they become bridged enough to be hidden but not enough to support body weight. Keep alert for isolated pockets of windslab that form after fresh snow and wind.
The east side of the Rockies looks good and dry for rock climbing in the sun. Yamnuska, EEOR and similar cliffs are dry – although north facing cliffs at the same elevation still hold snow.
The forecast for the next few days is poor. For Friday, a rainfall warning is in effect for the western areas (Revelstoke), and rain/snow in store for areas as far east as Banff. Saturday looks better, but still a mostly unstable weekend ahead. It’s a strong SW flow, and so the best bet for weather will be the eastern ranges, where it should be mostly dry and probably very windy. Highs of 10-15 degrees expected.
Overall – not great conditions and not a great forecast either. I’ll call cragging, hiking or rock climbing on the leeward sides of the mountains as the best bet this weekend.
Grant Statham
Mountain Guide
Issued: Thursday, September 27, 2007
A cool and generally unstable past week of weather in the mountains, with a mix of blue sky, cloudy days and overnight lows down to -6 in Jasper. Winter appears firmly entrenched in the high elevations now, with over half a meter of new snow deposited as of Monday (24th). Not much additional snow since then - but no melting also.
Reports from the Bugaboos of 30-60 cm of settled snow on the glaciers, with most of the rock climbing now done for the year – perhaps there might be some hope for the low elevation south facing rocks to dry off, but that’s not a good bet. Consider the place done for the season, unless you’re sharpening your tools. Could the ice hose be forming?
A flight through the Lake Louise area today confirmed the same thing, with lots of snow in the alpine and no apparent melting over the past week. The best bet for any technical alpine climbing right now would be to hunt for ice runnels, which are just starting to form up in the gullies. If the cold weather persists and we get another clear spell, then October might offer some interesting mixed possibilities.
Glacier travel ok in all areas with a settled snowcover to walk on, but the hunt for crevasses has become quite challenging. This is a tough time of year to navigate crevasses, when they become bridged enough to be hidden but not enough to support body weight. Keep alert for isolated pockets of windslab that form after fresh snow and wind.
The east side of the Rockies looks good and dry for rock climbing in the sun. Yamnuska, EEOR and similar cliffs are dry – although north facing cliffs at the same elevation still hold snow.
The forecast for the next few days is poor. For Friday, a rainfall warning is in effect for the western areas (Revelstoke), and rain/snow in store for areas as far east as Banff. Saturday looks better, but still a mostly unstable weekend ahead. It’s a strong SW flow, and so the best bet for weather will be the eastern ranges, where it should be mostly dry and probably very windy. Highs of 10-15 degrees expected.
Overall – not great conditions and not a great forecast either. I’ll call cragging, hiking or rock climbing on the leeward sides of the mountains as the best bet this weekend.
Grant Statham
Mountain Guide
Wednesday, September 26, 2007
[MCR] Bugaboo's
Was just in the Bugaboo's on an alpine course from September 21-24.
Precipitation throughout that period was quite consistent with snow
well down below the Kain hut level. Accumulations up to 60cm on the
upper Bugaboo glacier was observed, face shots would have been a
definite if we were on skis. Generally low density snow, however,
there was a weak layer, rimmed or graupel crystals lower down in the
storm snow that was producing large settlements and whumping that was
traveling long distances. No natural avalanches were observed. Wide
spread false bridging throughout glaciers, making it difficult to see
and negotiate crevasses.
The spires were plastered with snow and ice was running down all
over. By the 24th the south facing lower down faces, like the
McTech and Crescent towers areas were starting to dry off and might
possibly become climable again. The power at the hut was off for the
season due to the lack of water for the Hydro electric system and the
hut will be boarded up for the winter in a couple of days.
Time to head south.
Precipitation throughout that period was quite consistent with snow
well down below the Kain hut level. Accumulations up to 60cm on the
upper Bugaboo glacier was observed, face shots would have been a
definite if we were on skis. Generally low density snow, however,
there was a weak layer, rimmed or graupel crystals lower down in the
storm snow that was producing large settlements and whumping that was
traveling long distances. No natural avalanches were observed. Wide
spread false bridging throughout glaciers, making it difficult to see
and negotiate crevasses.
The spires were plastered with snow and ice was running down all
over. By the 24th the south facing lower down faces, like the
McTech and Crescent towers areas were starting to dry off and might
possibly become climable again. The power at the hut was off for the
season due to the lack of water for the Hydro electric system and the
hut will be boarded up for the winter in a couple of days.
Time to head south.
Rich Marshall
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Saturday, September 22, 2007
[MCR] Mt Stanley
Carl Johnson and I climbed the Waterman Couloir on Mt Stanley yesterday. As mentioned in the mountain conditions summery yesterday the new snow on the glacier is doing a great job of hiding the crevasses but providing no new strength to the snow bridges. This makes for slow travel and lots of probing.
It was possible to pass the burgshrund on the right by climbing a mixed pitch which went through an ice tunnel. The couloir was good climbing with access to good ice screws through out.
By the time we reached the base of the couloir on our descent it was snowing heavily and approximately 10cm of snow had fallen. Sluffs where beginning to come down the couloir and winds had picked up. I would expect to find wind slabs in lee and cross loaded terrain features today.
Jesse de Montigny
ACMG Ski Guide
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
Friday, September 21, 2007
[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for sept.21st, 2007.
ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 21st, 2007.
Summer is definetly over in the mountains. The Larches are yellow and it has been REALLY cold since wednesday am.
In the past 48 hrs at 2000m at Lake O'Hara it has not gone above 3 celcius and it has been tinkling snow above 2700m's almost continously. Yuck!!
Very little snow has actually accumulated. Perhaps 20 cms in the bugaboos and 10-15cms in the alpine along the Louise, Moraine, O"Hara divide. There were some winds today so it is possible there may be some windslabs above 3000m's.
Glacier travel has just gotten a little trickier with crevasses harder to read and bridges not at all stronger.
Climbing conditions are generally slippery and white and it will take a real warm spell to improve even souith facing rock above 3000m's.
There is some dribbles of water ice above 2800m's but there is still a drought in the bowls above most alpine ice routes. Hard to get excited about anything above treeline at this point. Perhaps a good book?
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide
Monday, September 17, 2007
[MCR] Commander Mtn
Climbed Commander Mountain (3350m) west of Radium yesterday. We approached
from Farnham Creek and climbed the NE glacier to the S ridge (PD). The
glacier is quite broken, but we found a reasonable route. A good freeze
provided strong bridges which were still well frozen as of noon. Above 3000m
there is up to 10cm of recent storm snow (Sept 11 & 12) that has formed a
minor wind slab in isolated locations. The new snow is also beginning to
hide crevasses. Conditions were excellent, but a weather front on the
horizon will likely change that quickly.
from Farnham Creek and climbed the NE glacier to the S ridge (PD). The
glacier is quite broken, but we found a reasonable route. A good freeze
provided strong bridges which were still well frozen as of noon. Above 3000m
there is up to 10cm of recent storm snow (Sept 11 & 12) that has formed a
minor wind slab in isolated locations. The new snow is also beginning to
hide crevasses. Conditions were excellent, but a weather front on the
horizon will likely change that quickly.
Enjoy the last days of summer!
Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG Ski Guide, Asst. Alpine Guide
26-640 Upper Lakeview Rd
Invermere BC V0A1K3
CANADA
250-342-5013
jeremymackenzie@hotmail.com
_________________________________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Sunday, September 16, 2007
[MCR] East Ridge of Temple, Sept 16, 2007
Up the East Ridge of Temple today with one guest and the route is still in great shape. No snow or water on the rock. Some snow is hanging around on ledges and lower angle terrain on N aspects. Crampons were useful for the glacier at the top and travel was easy. A meltfreeze crust on the surface of the glacier was keeping any recent snow in place. Crevasses are becoming more difficult to see. Trail down the SW side was nice and dry.
Cheers, Conrad JanzenMountain Guide
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[MCR] Bugaboos
Spent the last four days in the Bugaboos with perfect weather and next to no crowds. Climbed NE Ridge of Bugaboo on Thursday. The route is hardly "in shape" with all of the chimney pitches covered in between 5 and 20cms of snow with ice underneath making for very slow and tedious climbing. The traverse between the summits was all snow and 75% of the route was climbed with gloves on. Good times...
Yesterday we climbed the Snowpatch route which was much nicer due to its aspect. We noticed fresh bear tracks coming up the Crescent glacier, over the Snowpatch - Son of Snowpatch col then down to the Bugaboo glacier and back towards the hut.! Adventurous bear!!
Lots of rockfall observed around Bugaboo and Crescent Spires. We had a fridge size block let loose underneath us at the base of Lion's Way Friday morning. The Bugaboo - Snowpatch col has not improved since Sean's posting last week. Overnight temperatures were very warm (9 degrees at 3:30AM). Snowpatch Pigeon rappel route was used.
Fantastic new trail from the Kain hut up to Applebee...thank you to the trail crew!!
Cheers
Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide
Saturday, September 15, 2007
[MCR] Mt Joffre K Country
On Thurs the 13th we climbed the N Face route on Mt Joffre. Conditions were good. The 20-25 cm of snow that fell last Tues night was sticking to the face and settling out fast. North alpine aspects and glaciers are holding snow but just about dry conditions elsewhere including the Aster Lakes camp ground. The water in Hidden Lake is very low so you can avoid the dead fall on the trail.
Cheers
M Stewart
Mountain Guide
Cirrus Alpine Guides
Friday, September 14, 2007
[MCR] North Star Peak
Climbed North Star Peak(3100m) west of Radium on July 13. Approached from
the north via the western lobe of the north glacier, and then climbed the
west face (PD, 4th/5.0). Descended same route with downclimbing and two 20m
raps. Travel conditions were excellent on the glacier with mostly dry ice
below 2900m. Where there is still snow on the glacier the bridges felt solid
due to a very good freeze overnight. The summit rock band was mostly dry,
but found snow and ice in most cracks and corners. The light dusting of snow
from the night of Sept. 11 had almost entirely melted off by afternoon.
the north via the western lobe of the north glacier, and then climbed the
west face (PD, 4th/5.0). Descended same route with downclimbing and two 20m
raps. Travel conditions were excellent on the glacier with mostly dry ice
below 2900m. Where there is still snow on the glacier the bridges felt solid
due to a very good freeze overnight. The summit rock band was mostly dry,
but found snow and ice in most cracks and corners. The light dusting of snow
from the night of Sept. 11 had almost entirely melted off by afternoon.
Overall the Purcells appear very dry and conditions are excellent. From a
distance the Bugaboos also appear fairly dry, but I would suspect the cracks
to be snowy and/or icy given what we saw on our climb.
Have fun out there.
Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG Ski Guide, Asst. Alpine Guide
26-640 Upper Lakeview Rd
Invermere BC V0A1K3
CANADA
250-342-5013
jeremymackenzie@hotmail.com
_________________________________________________________________
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] Victoria & Huber ledges
Climbed the SE ridge of Victoria and descended down the Huber ledges yesterday (September 13). There was about 10 to 15 cm of new snow, and some verglass on the lower part of the route. Climbed 95 % of the mountain in crampons. In wind loaded areas there is up to 30 cm , but I did not observe any wind slab. Descend down Huber Ledges, the SW face was in excellent shape, had anywhere from 10 to 20 cm on the ice. Lots of sluffing occurred in the storm. The schrun was easy to cross.
Temps at the hut at 0430 was –5.
Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide
Temps at the hut at 0430 was –5.
Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide
Thursday, September 13, 2007
[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for Sept. 13th, 2007
ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 13th, 2007.
Tuesday night's impressive thunderstorms left snow all over the main ranges. 17mm of rain fell at Lake OHara Lodge so 15-20cms of snow along the Divide in that area is a reasonable guess. Two days of heat has melted most of it on sun effected rocky terrain up to approximately 3000m's. Less snow fell in the Selkirks and as of yesterday afternoon Sir Donald was drying out quickly. I would assume similair conditions would be found in the Purcells and Monashees.
Isolated windslab avalanches could possibly be triggered by climbers on high elevation lee slopes. This hazard will persist longer on northerly aspects.
There will probably be lots of verglas in the shade and rockfall in the sun with the recent snow, warm days and cold nights.
It is still generally good conditions in the alpine for september. The only places with really poor climbing conditions would be the previously mentioned loaded lee slopes, the plastered,mostly north facing alpine rock routes and the sadly dry big mixed gully lines. Low angle mixed ridges such as Victoria, Assiniboine and Edith Cavell remain climbable but probably snowy for awhile.
The new snow may have improved the glacier walking but the crevasses have gotten a little trickier to read and the snow bridges are not significantly stronger.
Winter still feels a long way away.
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide
Monday, September 10, 2007
[MCR] Lake OHara neighbourhood.
Summer was back in town today. 2 celsius at 8am at the lodge at 2000m but a lovely 18 celsius, calm and sunny at 2700m at noon. Still a dusting of snow down to approx 3000m on the shady rock. A fairly regular sound of rockfall every few minutes starting around noon from the big choss faces.
Most of the regular routes on all the peaks look good with Hungabee West and North ridges the plastered exceptions. Victoria South ridge is probably frosty but very climbable. Thin but friendly snow on the Lefroy and Glacier pk ice slopes.
Larches still green.
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide
[MCR] Athabasca
Hello,
Spent the last 3 days at the Columbia Icefields with Nick Sharp on the Snow and Ice long weekend. Today (Sept 10) we climbed the Ramp route on Athabasca with a bunch of people. It was in excellent condition. The North Face and the Silverhorn were also climbed the day before and also looked to be in excellent condition. Of note was the surface hoar that formed last night and was visible to above the ramp, be cautious after the next storm for avalanches on this layer.
Jesse de Montigny
ACMG Ski Guide
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
Saturday, September 8, 2007
[MCR] Bugaboos (Sept 4-7)
I just returned from a few days in the Bugaboos. As reported many times this summer, the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col is in appalling condition with much loose rock exposed and poised to fall. We climbed the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire (on Wednesday, Sept 5) but completely avoided the col by approaching via the Bugaboo Glacier under the south faces of Snowpatch and Pigeon Spire. This still has its own hazards with large boulders perched on the glacial tongue ready to slide once lubricated by daytime warming. Snow bridges and plugs were frozen hard in the am but rotted junk in the pm. Aggressive probing is recommended. The west ridge itself was dry but that all changed yesterday as it now sports a fresh coat of snow. Temperatures on Thursday and Friday were cold (just above 0 C at 9am) and not conducive to enjoyable barehanded free climbing prompting a mass exodus. The hut was completely empty when we left yesterday morning.
Sean Isaac
Assistant Alpine Guide
Friday, September 7, 2007
[MCR] Yoho
Climbed President and Vice on Sept 5.
Shrund quite passable on far right but definitely getting wider and
huge on the left. Caution for stuff hanging above shrund on right,
stay as far left lower down as possible. lower 2/3 of glacier is ice
and was frozen hard. Caution for rockfall from above....we had a rock
go by us that we didn't even see or hear... thought it was a humming
bird. Some dirty ice leading to the Vice President at the col can be
turned far right on scree...
Peter A.
Shrund quite passable on far right but definitely getting wider and
huge on the left. Caution for stuff hanging above shrund on right,
stay as far left lower down as possible. lower 2/3 of glacier is ice
and was frozen hard. Caution for rockfall from above....we had a rock
go by us that we didn't even see or hear... thought it was a humming
bird. Some dirty ice leading to the Vice President at the col can be
turned far right on scree...
Peter A.
Peter Amann
Mountain Guiding
Box 1495, Jasper AB, T0E 1E0
780 852 3237
cell 780 931 2521
www.incentre.net/pamann/
pamann@incentre.net
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Thursday, September 6, 2007
[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for Sept. 6th, 2007
ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 6th, 2007.
Conditions in the alpine have been generally good in the past week throughout the Rockies and Columbias. There was scattered light precipitation in many areas on the night of the 5th. With the forecasted cool temperatures, you should expect some snowcovered rock up high and perhaps some verglas at and just below the snow line.
There is possibly just enough snow for isolated small windslabs along the divide in the Rockies on lee slopes above 3000m's. As always, be aware of the consequences of being knocked off your feet if you are in new snow.
Glacier travel conditions remain good, but the new snow will make judging crevasses a little trickier at high elevations. An interesting report from the guides at CMH Bugaboos that some of the thinner, high elevation snow bridges are actually starting to rot(facet?)and lose strength. With the still shallow snowcover, probing is still the quickest and most effective tool for finding crevasses and avoiding walking on air.
The temperatures are perhaps cool enough for some of the big mixed alpine gullies and faces but there is a definite alpine water-ice drought going on. Travelling over Wenkchemna and Opabin passes yesterday I saw only scattered bits of water ice and lots of bare choss in the bowls that feed the gullies. I would assume the situation is similar at the Columbia Icefields. This will not change until we get some signifigant precipitation and a decent melt-freeze. This melt/freeze gets a little less likely each day as we march through september. Hmm.
It looks like a good weekend for classic mountaineering and sun warmed rock. Pack your woolies and keep your eyes wide open and your feet on the ground.
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide
Tuesday, September 4, 2007
[MCR] Mt Fay, Mt Little
Hello folks.
The two shorter ice faces on the right side of the N Face are now in dry conditions. The longer ice routes are bony at the bottom but still covered with frozen snow that increases in depth as you climb higher providing good ice climbing. Shrunds are all passable and fairly strait forward to cross. Yesterday the temps on the N Face were just below 0 early morning, above by mid day. The ridge and rock on Mt Little above the hut as well as most of the local peaks in the Louise group are now dry and free of snow. Almost all recent new snow on the glaciers is also gone and travel is strait forward. The continuing SW flow and mid day warming trend will change the ice conditions fast.
Cheers.
M Stewart Mountain Guide
Cirrus Alpine Guides
Monday, September 3, 2007
[MCR] Mt. Assiniboine
We made an ascent of Assiniboine yesterday(9/02), from the Hind Hut.
The snow line from last weeks storms was around 2900-3000 meters. We
put crampons on roughly half way to the red band and they remained on
to the summit and back to that point. There was enough accumulation of
snow higher up (up to 50cm/s in places) where ice axes increased
security and were also useful for cutting steps.
The snow line from last weeks storms was around 2900-3000 meters. We
put crampons on roughly half way to the red band and they remained on
to the summit and back to that point. There was enough accumulation of
snow higher up (up to 50cm/s in places) where ice axes increased
security and were also useful for cutting steps.
Good mixed conditions through the red and grey bands, with smaterings
of water ice here and there. (a stubby ice screw could come in handy).
Holds were readily available, and not covered with snow where it
mattered.
Fixed anchors above technical climbing were in good shape. (Lots of
slings!)
Foam mattresses in the hut are getting a bit worn out. Some people
opted to take a therma rest for some extra padding.
Aaron Beardmore
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] Lake Louise/Icefields
The Alpine Guide Exam has been operating in the Lake Louise group and at the Columbia Icefields August 30-September 2.
Groups have climbed routes on Louis, Castle, Victoria, Popes, Grassi Ridge, Babel, Fay and Temple E Ridge as well as spent a day on Athabasca's N Glacier.
Lower elevation rock routes are dry. The snow from late August has had a lot of heat applied to it during last week's warmth and by Sept 2 had settled into good travel conditions. A bit of snow and hail from storms Friday night and Saturday has not changed things much. That said, pure ice routes are still in not that great shape and bergschrunds remain an issue, although they can be crossed on most standard routes. Lefroy and most routes on Mt Fay do not look appealing.
At the Icefields there seems to have been more snow recently and ice routes look like they are in a better shape. There was significant wind loading evident on the Silverhorn route on September 1.
Rich Marshall
Marc Ledwidge
Todd Craig
Greg Golovach
Mark Klassen
Mountain Guides
Saturday, September 1, 2007
[MCR] East Ridge of Mount Temple, August 31, 2007
Climbed the East Ridge of Mount Temple yesterday with one guest. The route was dry and in good shape. A few small snow patches in the
Very warm temperatures overnight so steep snow/ice faces in the area were in poor shape as of yesterday due to sluffing and rock fall issues. Bare ice showing again on many of the glaciers at lower elevations and steeper ice faces (i.e. N. Face of Fay).
IFMGA Mountain Guide
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