The entire wall is feeling the effects of the powerful Spring sun and an early start is required.
We went up the Center line and a good amount of cleaning was needed to find solid protection. Long screws were nice to have. Lots of features for the feet but the climbing was at the guidebook grade.
Of note were the large (fridge size) chunks of blue ice that covered the entire left side of the base of the wall.
All of the normal belay spots for the first pitches of Sniveling, Left Hand and the Center line were obliterated. The culprit looked to be the sun and broken daggers from high up on the left side of the wall.
More and more rock is getting exposed on sunny days. It was worth it for us to plan our line from the road in order to minimize the hazard climbing, standing or belaying with something fragile above us.
Have fun!
Mike Stuart
ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.