I guided Coire Dubh today, March 18th. The route has not seen much traffic as of late, we had a bit of postholing to get through the forest drifts. The climb is in good shape with higher than average snow levels. A size 1.5 avalanche has filled in the creek drainage below the route. Slab instability wasn't an issue today, but that could change with the forecasted east slope storm tomorrow. The final two -old- bolt belay on top of the last ice pitch is either buried, or the boulders containing the bolts have fallen away. We climbed the 5.6 corner of the Integral and then rappeled. That corner was done without crampons, but could have been done with, six of one and half a dozen of the other. The biggest threat today was the cornices that are at ridgeline. Seems to be the year of cornices. Happy to see it so cold last night, not so happy to feel the power of the sun today. We saw several fist sized rocks melt out from the climber's right hand ledges once we were above that part of the gully.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com
Coire Dubh and cornices, March 18th.