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Tuesday, March 29, 2011

[MCR] Rockies Ice Conditions

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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Spent the past 4 days guiding ice around the Rockies.
Guinness Gully- still in the shape it has been all winter....great!  Seems like sun hits the upper mountain by noon or 1, so nice to get an earlier start. Still lots of snow in between pitches and on the sidewalls.
Professors- As Kris' post.  Fat, dry (at the time) and buried anchors.  Also lots of snow above the route still.  The final pitch is in beautiful shape and one could make it quite challenging by taking the far right side.  You can bike a bit further then where the road splits, and then the snow gets very deep.
Louise Falls- As fat as ever.  Some of the big daggers on the right side are now touching down.  Still don't fully trust them, but they are starting to have a base. 
Snowline/Moonlight- As Barry mentioned earlier, Snowline is thinning out.  It was still very climbable yesterday with decent protection, but delamination could play a role in its demise.  Moonlight appears to be growing, fat and wet.
Great ice conditions to be had!

Sarah Hueniken
ACMG Alpine Guide
www.sarahhueniken.com