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Thursday, March 17, 2011

[MCR] Rockies, Louise Falls

I guided Louise Falls today, March 17th, green rope, and wee leprechaun of a fellow guide in tow with my guest. Happy St Paddy's day to you all.

The big blue Louise Falls is in fine shape. The crux feels like pumpy hooked out grade 4. Huge daggers are running with water, and gaining mass on climber's right. We belayed under the protection of the rock roof 1/2 ropelength up and then did a long pitch to climber's left of the pillar, walked behind it, belayed, then climbed the pillar via climber's right. The top out on the route has been filled in, and smoothed over with snow. Some snow mushrooms are hanging above the exit and may be a threat later on a sunny day (tomorrow?). The walk off was all snow walking and down climbing, no ice exposed anymore. Numerous mushrooms hanging over the walk off (It is a great snow year, no?). The trail cuts across the avalanche slope mid path to get back to the base, but felt like a ribbon of steel today. Having said that we did carry beacon, probe and shovel up the route and down the descent -specifically for the descent.

'Beannachtam na Feile Padraig!'

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com