[MCR] Rockies: Vice President SW Face

Erica Roles and I climbed what might be a new route on the SW Face of the Vice President on October 14 (starting at Emerald Lake). I have a hard time believing that a local climber from Field hasn't climbed this obvious line at some time or another but I haven't found a description of it anywhere. The route compares favourably to Aberdeen N Glacier and Stanley N Face, with one short section of exposed and unprotected 4th class that could prove to be challenging for some.

We found excellent conditions, with good snow coverage on the glacier starting at about 2700 m. The snow from the late summer storms was bulletproof and crevasse bridging was good. There are areas of ankle deep soft snow on top of the harder snow but this was getting cooked in the sun yesterday. The steep pitch on the route was free of snow and had pretty good sticks for the tools and crampons.

Descent was made via President Pass and then back down to Emerald Lake.

Last night it snowed on the peaks but it is sunny again in Banff and I doubt conditions will have changed that much. 

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

www.facebook.com/alpinism for photos and route description