[MCR] Aberdeen North Glacier

Spent a beautiful day on Aberdeen's North Glacier today. Very similar conditions to what James reported on the 14th (before the snow).

 

Temps were cold all day. -10 at the parking lot at 5:30 am and -15 at the base of the route around 8:30. The tongue provided a special blend of hard, low angle ice and I was glad to have two real tools and a few extra screws. We pitched out four 60m rope lengths to the upper glacial bench (which is in excellent shape).

 

The approach trail is mostly snow covered as is the ankle-eating talus leading to the base of the route. 

 

Cheers,

Andrew 

 

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Andrew Wexler
ACMG Alpine Guide

ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
www.globalalpine.com