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Thursday, October 14, 2010

[MCR] Kokanee Glacier & Cond Peak - Selkirks

Yesterday we climbed Cond Peak via the north side of Kokanee Glacier from the lodge and descended the Keyhole.  It was +1 C at 5:30am at the Kokanee Lodge.

The lower reaches of the north glacier were bare ice, as were isolated rolls higher up including the convexity north of Grays Peak.  Areas that were still snow covered were frozen so rock solid that I had to pitch out the north glacier where I would usually move together with guests.  Travel would have been impossible without crampons.

 

Some shaded rocky areas still had 1cm of remnant snow from the last storm, but the range was otherwise quite snow free.

 

The Keyhole was in typical late season shape with lots of loose rock debris.  Scattered snow pockets on this west aspect were just soft enough to boot ski at the end of the day but would have been treacherous ice hard slabs before the sun had many hours to soften them.

 

Enjoy the sunny weather,

 
Shaun King
Mountain Guide