day of early season ice climbing. The creek is not yet frozen, so you
have to cross on the partly submerged beaver dam.
A major wash out has taken out the trail on the bottom half of the
approach (it started at Lone Ranger). Lobes of debris came right down
to the creek. This doesn't pose a problem for access, there is just
more tedious scree walking than before. Likely, this happened during
the late September monsoons.
Lone Ranger was in pretty good shape until the final 6 meters, where
the ice became very air-(ated) and difficult to protect. Fine ice
climbing conditions right up to that point.
Chalice and the Blade/Spoon looked very athletic, but climbable.
R&D was detached in a few places and made a few weird noises, and if I
were to go back I would certainly wait for colder temperatures. The
temps were just above freezing this afternoon.
There is virtually no avalanche hazard to be concerned with at this
point.
Aaron Beardmore
Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.