[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 07, 2010

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 07,2010 This week the Columbias and Rockies have been dominated by some of the nicest weather of the fall, with sunny days and cool nights - an alpinists dream. The forecasted weather earlier in the week failed to produce much in the way of precipitation with nothing more than a light shower overnight on Monday. As a result there has been little change to conditions in the alpine except perhaps to melt any remaining snow on some of the South facing alpine rock climbs below 3000m. Above that height you are likely to find mixed climbing on most aspects and definitely on the shaded faces/ridges such as NW Ridge of Sir Donald and and the East Ridge on Mt. Temple, putting them out of reasonable climbing condition. This weeks conditions may have produced some high elevations drips of ice to form but I have no confirmed reports. Snow conditions are well settled allowing for quick travel over glaciers and fine cramponing on the steeper snow/ice faces. The cool temps and good overnight freezes have limited avalanche risk but caution should be utilized near high elevation ridge crests and gullies that may still hold isolated wind slabs. Expect some small brittle cornices in the alpine. Glacier travel is pretty good for this time of year but early season snow bridges always deserve a healthy respect and the protection of roped travel. Things are forecast to start deteriorating as of Friday with Cloud for the Rockies and a low chance of showers for the Columbias. It looks like it may be a better bet to hang in the Rockies for the weekend, as the Selkirks are going to see rain and the Rockies will only see a mix of sun and cloud. It could be another awesome week of weather starting next Monday, so if you can, enjoy the amazing fall climbing. Scott Davis, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.