[MCR] Revelstoke - McCrae Peak - Oct 30th

Today we climbed McCrae Peak from the summer trail parking, and skied back to the car.

Snow
10cm fresh snow at the parking lot (~1800m), and 30-35cm evenly distributed fresh moist snow on the NW Glacier. Skiing on the glacier was excellent, but the rest of the way back to the car was very rocky as could be expected (photo below is climbing up towards the glacier from the small lake) . We did however make it all the way back to the car without walking thanks to others ahead of us who uncovered most of the rocks.

Weather
Poor visibility on the glacier and -7 deg on the summit at 12:45pm.

Avalanches
No signs of avalanches or even sloughing, everything seemed well bonded.

12 cars at the parking lot when we arrived back down!

Alex Geary (Assistant Ski Guide & Assistant Rock Guide)
Fred Amyot (Assistant Ski Guide & Assistant Rock Guide)

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 29, 2010

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 29, 2010 Autumn is easing into dry early winter in the Rockies. Ice climbing is slowly coming in, especially in the cold and shady alpine and high treeline. I haven't seen or heard of any really climbable ice at valley elevations. A few people have been out skiing and if you find the right, smooth, benign glacier you might get some turns in. Obviously the crevasse coverage is mediocre at best and I wouldn't want to be wandering around in big ice country right now without the rope and a LARGE, well trained partner or two. Most of the Rockies above 2000m is dusted with enough snow to make travelling poor. Reports from the Columbia Icefields talk about 20cms new snow on wednesday and sloughing enough to spoil your day. Lakes are freezing at times but skating would still be a fairly wet and risky activity. Reports from the Columbias around Revelstoke (Mt. McRae) show a bit more snow but just barely enough for skiing unless you REALLY want to work for it. Reports from Nelson country show 45cm at the Whitewater parking lot (1700m) and around 40cms in most alpine areas in the Southern Selkirks. Below is a report courtesy of Glacier Park staff on Thursday. Snowline: 1300m Height of snow @ Mousetrap: 15cm Height of snow @ Asulkan Hut: 35-40cm Coverage on glacier, hard to see Temp @ Asulkan -3C Winds: SE @ 50 kph, Travel Conditions: hard: post holing above knees, but not enough snow to ski. Lots of wind drifting. A Medium-hard slab is forming, with cracking. Sounds downright nasty! Sounds like it may be a warm wet weekend in the Columbias. At skiable elevations there may well be enough snow for avalanches, especially if we get a quick, warm, load of moist or wet snow. In the Rockies, glacier travel and scrambling will still be poor in most places. Ice climbing might work but expect thin, sporty ice, especially where it hasn't been picked out already. South faces like Yamnuska, might have some climbing, but put a big handwarmer in your chalk bag and maybe your undies:) The days are short, the stone is cold and if the wind blows it could get desperate in a hurry. Winter is coming but it ain't here yet. Sharpen your tools, your skills and your senses but try not to dull or break them on the snowy rocks in the short term:) Larry Stanier ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] JNP: Restricted Activity Order for winter travel into the Tonquin Valley area from Nov 1/10 to Feb 15th/2011

see attachment below. The french version should state feb 15, 2011 not
2010.

Garth Lemke
Public Safety Specialist
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide

Spécialiste, Sécurité publique
Guide de ski auxiliaire, Association des guides de montagne canadiens

Jasper National Park of Canada | Parc national du Canada Jasper
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
P.O. Box 10, Jasper AB T0E 1E0 | C.P. 10, Jasper (Alberta) T0E 1E0
Garth.Lemke@pc.gc.ca
Telephone | Téléphone 780-852-6158
Facsimile | Télécopieur 780-852-6135
Cellular Phone | Téléphone cellulaire 780-852-8811
Government of Canada | Gouvernement du Canada
www.pc.gc.ca/jasper


Think GREEN! Please don't print this email unless you really need to.
Soyez ÉCOLO! N'imprimez ce courriel que si vous devez vraiment le faire.







(See attached file: Winter Travel Restricted Activity Order Tonquin Valley
Areapdf.pdf)

[MCR] Rockies, Mt Yamnuska

For those considering Yam this weekend, I guide a traverse of the peak today, Oct 28th. The front side is dry from east to west, all the routes look good to go. The backside has a skiff of snow that is ankle deep in some places and slippery in a number of places.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard

UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide

http://www.barryblanchard.ca

http://www.yamnuska.com

barryb3@telus.net

1 403 609 4615

cell 1 403 609 1321

[MCR] Monashees and Selkirks Snow - Revelstoke - October 26

I have been out in the Monashees and the Selkirks the past few days.  Snowline this morning (Oct 26) was down to about 1100m in the Selkirks, south of Revelstoke on the western slopes of McRae Peak.  Snow down to about 1300m in the Monashees on an eastern aspect.  There was about 15cm of snow at 1400m in the Selkirks, quite driveable in a 4x4.  Ran into some friends who were on their way up McRae to try skiing.  No report yet on how it was.

 

Jordy Shepherd

Mountain Guide

www.PeakAlpine.com

 

---

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[MCR] Ranger Creek

Today Sarah Hueniken and I adventured up Ranger Creek. We had fun on R & D and Chalice and the Spoon. It snowed less than 1cm.  Light winds and partially cloudy skies. 

We had good protection on both routes, placing many 10 - 19cm screws. We placed an abolocov at 55m on Chalice. 

We heard of a friend getting turned around by a moose with a big rack this afternoon on the way up to ranger creek, something to watch out for,  : )

 jen olson

acmg/ifmga mountain guide

jen@jenolson.ca

An ACMG Alpine Guide sending the sick early season crystals of R &D

R & D was a bit wet and hollow to start, picked out holds, but good screws.

 

Lone Ranger and Chalice, Spoon and Blade

 

R and D

[MCR] Ranger Creek

Wandered up Ranger Creek with fellow Mountain Guide, Tim Auger, for a
day of early season ice climbing. The creek is not yet frozen, so you
have to cross on the partly submerged beaver dam.

A major wash out has taken out the trail on the bottom half of the
approach (it started at Lone Ranger). Lobes of debris came right down
to the creek. This doesn't pose a problem for access, there is just
more tedious scree walking than before. Likely, this happened during
the late September monsoons.

Lone Ranger was in pretty good shape until the final 6 meters, where
the ice became very air-(ated) and difficult to protect. Fine ice
climbing conditions right up to that point.

Chalice and the Blade/Spoon looked very athletic, but climbable.

R&D was detached in a few places and made a few weird noises, and if I
were to go back I would certainly wait for colder temperatures. The
temps were just above freezing this afternoon.

There is virtually no avalanche hazard to be concerned with at this
point.

Aaron Beardmore
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt.Lefroy

Climbed Lefroy today with fellow mountain guides Brian Webster and Gerry Israelson.  Perfect cramponing from the hut to the summit on very firm snow with only one 10 foot section of ice in the narrows near the top.  The trail from O’hara to Abbot’s pass is mostly dry.   Spectacular fall day.

 

Marc Ledwidge

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Rockies, Mt Cromwell, North Face, Robinson/Arbic without Powerpoint

I just tried to send this report with a PowerPoint photo of the face
with the route drawn in, no luck with the MCR system:

My fellow Mountain Guides, Steve Holeczi and Marc Piche', and I made
a recreational (non-professional ... we weren't getting paid) ascent
of the Robinson/Arbic route on the North Face of Mt Cromwell on
Tuesday, October 19th.

4am saw us fording the half dozen braids of the Sunwapta River, none
of which were deeper than top of the calf, but none of which were
warm either!

Dawn caught us up on the glacier just below the Elzinga/Miller route
having checked our location just once, with the GPS and map in the
wee dark hours. Strangely a solo headlamp came up behind us to within
a hundred meters while Steve and I bounced yodels off of the soaring
mountain walls, but no reply, and then the headlamp went away.
Anybody know the story? We'd love to hear it.

Able to see where we were, and where we were suppose to be, we
traversed to the left to the initial "hidden gully" (Selectied Alpine
Climbs by Dougherty). Fabulous climbing in that gully, one swing
thunks into perfect plaster.

We climbed a left hand variation to the route above the hidden gully
through the first rock band as the R/A looked serious in it's
thinness. A big traverse back right took us back to the R/A for the
second rock band. Lots of spindrift here as the day was partially
overcast with light snowfall at times. Most of the harder climbing
ends at the top of this rockband as the face leans back above (same
level as the glacier starts on the Elzinga/Miller). And the climbing
wasn't really that hard, never feeling harder than 5.6 mixed or WI 3 -
but it isn't deep blue ice, it is mostly snow-ice (s'nice) that very
occasionally takes stubby or short screws and is mostly protected by
rock gear. Crampon front points seem to be the most important asset
on the route.

The upper half of the wall is mostly steeper snow climbing with
another big traverse right to turn the last rockband. Overall less
ice, snice, or consolidated snow high on the face. Given the amount
of snow climbing, any significant avalanche threat from unstable snow
would strike this route off of the list.

We finished the route straight forwardly on the left hand edge of the
cornices on the summit ridgeline. We topped out at 6:00 pm and headed
straight down the descent gully into the Stutfield/Kitchener
drainage. Convenient that you top out right on top of that gully.
There are windslabs in the descent gully so we stuck to the sides and
out of the big stuff and, even given that, we did kick off a small .
5 sized fresh pocket wind slab that sat at the feet of a small rock
wall. We made two half rope rappels (15 meters each) in the lower
gulley and walked onto the glacier at dusk.

9 pm we stopped and brewed up in the morraines. 11 pm we made it into
the timber and bed down without sleeping bags to shiver til dawn.

Dawn saw us descending a faint trail down skier's left edge of the
main drainage, then out the lower valley to the highway.

Note that the Elzinga/Miller had seen a one day ascent on Sunday and
that we occasionally saw the previous party's footprints. They
reported great conditions on that route.

Barry Blanchard, Mountain Guide
Steve Holeczi, Mountain Guide
Marc Piche', Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Rockies, Mt Cromwell, North Face, Robinson/Arbic

My fellow Mountain Guides, Steve Holeczi and Marc Piche', and I made
a recreational (non-professional ... we weren't getting paid) ascent
of the Robinson/Arbic route on the North Face of Mt Cromwell on
Tuesday, October 19th.

4am saw us fording the half dozen braids of the Sunwapta River, none
of which were deeper than top of the calf, but none of which were
warm either!

Dawn caught us up on the glacier just below the Elzinga/Miller route
having checked our location just once, with the GPS and map in the
wee dark hours. Strangely a solo headlamp came up behind us to within
a hundred meters while Steve and I bounced yodels off of the soaring
mountain walls, but no reply, and then the headlamp went away.
Anybody know the story? We'd love to hear it.

Able to see where we were, and where we were suppose to be, we
traversed to the left to the initial "hidden gully" (Selectied Alpine
Climbs by Dougherty). Fabulous climbing in that gully, one swing
thunks into perfect plaster.

We climbed a left hand variation to the route above the hidden gully
through the first rock band as the R/A looked serious in it's
thinness. A big traverse back right took us back to the R/A for the
second rock band. Lots of spindrift here as the day was partially
overcast with light snowfall at times. Most of the harder climbing
ends at the top of this rockband as the face leans back above (same
level as the glacier starts on the Elzinga/Miller). And the climbing
wasn't really that hard, never feeling harder than 5.6 mixed or WI 3 -
but it isn't deep blue ice, it is mostly snow-ice (s'nice) that very
occasionally takes stubby or short screws and is mostly protected by
rock gear. Crampon front points seem to be the most important asset
on the route.

The upper half of the wall is mostly steeper snow climbing with
another big traverse right to turn the last rockband. Overall less
ice, snice, or consolidated snow high on the face. Given the amount
of snow climbing, any significant avalanche threat from unstable snow
would strike this route off of the list.

We finished the route straight forwardly on the left hand edge of the
cornices on the summit ridgeline. We topped out at 6:00 pm and headed
straight down the descent gully into the Stutfield/Kitchener
drainage. Convenient that you top out right on top of that gully.
There are windslabs in the descent gully so we stuck to the sides and
out of the big stuff and, even given that, we did kick off a small .
5 sized fresh pocket wind slab that sat at the feet of a small rock
wall. We made two half rope rappels (15 meters each) in the lower
gulley and walked onto the glacier at dusk.

9 pm we stopped and brewed up in the morraines. 11 pm we made it into
the timber and bed down without sleeping bags to shiver til dawn.

Dawn saw us descending a faint trail down skier's left edge of the
main drainage, then out the lower valley to the highway.

Note that the Elzinga/Miller had seen a one day ascent on Sunday and
that we occasionally saw the previous party's footprints. They
reported great conditions on that route.

Barry Blanchard, Mountain Guide
Steve Holeczi, Mountain Guide
Marc Piche', Mountain Guide

[MCR] Humble Horse

Spent a cold blustery day on Humble Horse Sunday.  Lower glacier approach ramp holding pockets of snow to 60cm, making travel slow and time to seriously think about avalanche conditions.  The 'schrund  was well filled in by a large avalanche about 3 weeks old.  The first two mixed pitches climbed well on snow covered rock.  The glacier 55 deg ice above leading to the WI 3/4 pitch is melted away to ugly scree.  The WI 3/4 pitch is extremely thin taking 16cm screws on the lower angle bottom and 10cm above on the steeper ground.  Between spin drift, random rock fall and the next mixed pitches looking too thin for any protection we rappelled from here.  Descent was interesting as there was very few spots with enough ice for v-threds and the rock is very broken and falling apart.  In my opinion the route is not in. James Madden (ARG, ASG) Adam Burrell (WG)

[MCR] Selkirks - Mt Sifton - Oct 18th

Today we climbed the North Ridge of Mt Sifton under cloudy skies and a dropping ceiling.

We found traces of snow starting around 1400m, 10cm of low density snow above 2500m, and drifts and wind pillows up to 50cm deep near the summit.

Photos of Mt Tupper (from Rogers/Sifton col) and Mt Sifton North Face attached.

Alex Geary (ASG & ARG)
Fred Amyot (ASG & ARG)

[MCR] Aberdeen North Glacier

Spent a beautiful day on Aberdeen's North Glacier today. Very similar conditions to what James reported on the 14th (before the snow).

 

Temps were cold all day. -10 at the parking lot at 5:30 am and -15 at the base of the route around 8:30. The tongue provided a special blend of hard, low angle ice and I was glad to have two real tools and a few extra screws. We pitched out four 60m rope lengths to the upper glacial bench (which is in excellent shape).

 

The approach trail is mostly snow covered as is the ankle-eating talus leading to the base of the route. 

 

Cheers,

Andrew 

 

 --

Andrew Wexler
ACMG Alpine Guide

ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
www.globalalpine.com

[MCR] N ridge mt Buller

Spent a cold but nice day on the North Ridge with two clients yesterday. The ridge was mostly free of snow except at the short crux.
There was no verglass to deal with but I suspect with warmer day time temps and cold night that icy veneers will be an issue this week on many rocky faces,trails and approaches. The crux, despite being short it was touchy do to the snow covering.
We descended the N gully back to our car.
The gully was "tedious" and time consuming it had a considerable amount of hard frozen ground and water ice. The gully could be a good option in the spring or early summer with the right snow pack.

It was my first time up there. I will likely do the route again. I found it enjoyable but in similar conditions or dry conditions I think the regular approach as described in the scrambles book might be a better descent.

Cheers
Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine guide
www.yamnuska.com
Sent from my BlackBerry device on the Rogers Wireless Network

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Rockies: Vice President SW Face

Erica Roles and I climbed what might be a new route on the SW Face of the Vice President on October 14 (starting at Emerald Lake). I have a hard time believing that a local climber from Field hasn't climbed this obvious line at some time or another but I haven't found a description of it anywhere. The route compares favourably to Aberdeen N Glacier and Stanley N Face, with one short section of exposed and unprotected 4th class that could prove to be challenging for some.

We found excellent conditions, with good snow coverage on the glacier starting at about 2700 m. The snow from the late summer storms was bulletproof and crevasse bridging was good. There are areas of ankle deep soft snow on top of the harder snow but this was getting cooked in the sun yesterday. The steep pitch on the route was free of snow and had pretty good sticks for the tools and crampons.

Descent was made via President Pass and then back down to Emerald Lake.

Last night it snowed on the peaks but it is sunny again in Banff and I doubt conditions will have changed that much. 

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

www.facebook.com/alpinism for photos and route description

[MCR] Aberdeen Conditions

Climbed Aberdeen via North Glacier on Oct 14. Lower ice was really hard and boney as was expected which made for challenging climbing on low angle ice. After the big glacial bench we encountered excellent snow conditions with great travel on the Sept 28 rain/rime crust which was about 8-10cm thick. Crevasses were either obvious or well bridged. FYI: a better descent description than Selected Alpine Climbs would read: From the summit descend SW along the ridge for about 800 ft to a small col at 9500 ft. Turn SW into the obvious big scree filled gully to Paradise Valley.

 

Numerous ice smear were forming up high in the Hadoo/Aberdeen basin with one climbable Grade IVish line to the right of the Aberdeen Glacier

 

Of course things will have changed with today’s snowfalls

 

Happy Hunting

James

 

James Blench

www.jamesblench.ca

(403)678-2576 home

(403) 678-7822 cell

 

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 14th, 2010

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 14th, 2010 After a fine couple of weeks, we have slipped, hopefully briefly, back into winter. As of 9:30 am it is snowing steadily in Canmore and there is 2cm on my deck. Jasper Park wardens report snow almost to town there, 3 cm at Parker's ridge and 15cm at Maligne lake. In Revelstoke snow fell overnight to approx 1500m. Not much reported activity from the alpine this week but one party found surprisingly variable conditions on the North face of Mt. Stanley. Some snow did fall earlier in the week across the Columbias and it seems variable amounts did fall across the Rockies divide. The Stanley party said the new snow and wind had made the crevasses edges harder to read and covered the face in everything from thigh deep rotten snow drifts to bare ice. Certainly not the stellar "neve" conditions found earlier in the alpine. It seems that the quartzite alpine climbing in both the Selkirks and Jasper areas and the Bugaboos granite is done for awhile(next july?). Moderate elevation limestone such as Castle and Louis may come back if the wx forecast is correct but ice and snow will likely remain in the shade for a very long time. Front ranges southerly facing rock and scrambling routes should rebound but expect some verglas this weekend as we may get back into a melt freeze cycle below treeline. Speaking of ice, lots of wise and hungry eyes have been looking around but you still have to look up, way up, to see much climbable ice. Lots of water is still running for this time of year and various little dribbles and sheets have appeared from the Terminator to the top of polar Circus but they are discontinuous, skinny and very "modern" looking. Above 2700-3000m, climbable ice can likely be found on some well watered routes like Asteroid Alley, Cromwell north face etc. The new snow will probably have enough depth and wind effect to create brittle new cornices and windslabs in places where you really don't want them. It would be prudent to give this snow at least a couple of days to settle and to clean off the ice and the stone. The forecast for the East slope of the Rockies still looks good. Yesterday was as close to a perfect temperature as you can find on Yamnuska. More of that would be just fine. Larry Stanier ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Kokanee Glacier & Cond Peak - Selkirks

Yesterday we climbed Cond Peak via the north side of Kokanee Glacier from the lodge and descended the Keyhole.  It was +1 C at 5:30am at the Kokanee Lodge.

The lower reaches of the north glacier were bare ice, as were isolated rolls higher up including the convexity north of Grays Peak.  Areas that were still snow covered were frozen so rock solid that I had to pitch out the north glacier where I would usually move together with guests.  Travel would have been impossible without crampons.

 

Some shaded rocky areas still had 1cm of remnant snow from the last storm, but the range was otherwise quite snow free.

 

The Keyhole was in typical late season shape with lots of loose rock debris.  Scattered snow pockets on this west aspect were just soft enough to boot ski at the end of the day but would have been treacherous ice hard slabs before the sun had many hours to soften them.

 

Enjoy the sunny weather,

 

Shaun King

Mountain Guide

www.mountainsense.ca 

 

[MCR] Rockies, Columbia Icefields.

My fellow guide, Erica Roles, and I guided out of the Columbia Icefields Campground from Monday to Friday, October 4-8. Conditions continue to be good given freezing, or close to freezing, overnight temperatures. Great supportive travel on the Little Athabasca Glacier, and Boundry Glacier, leading to A2. The September 18th picture below,w(hen there was much more snow) shows our route of ascent, descent, on Wednesday. Note that this route avoids the steep ice tongue of the lower north Little Athabasca Glacier.

Mt Wilcox was basically dry on our ascent of the South Ridge scramble on Friday, we stepped on snow twice for about a meter each time.

A recreational party attempted the Grand Central Coulior on Mt Kitchener retreating from above the 'Narrows' crux and reporting that the Doyle/Blanchard ice strip was not in.'

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard

Mountain Guide

www.barryblanchard.ca

www.yamnuska.com

Mt Wilcox on  Friday.  The size 3 avalanche that I reported in an MCR last Sunday is visible, kind of, below the Silverhorn in the background.

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 07, 2010

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued October 07,2010 This week the Columbias and Rockies have been dominated by some of the nicest weather of the fall, with sunny days and cool nights - an alpinists dream. The forecasted weather earlier in the week failed to produce much in the way of precipitation with nothing more than a light shower overnight on Monday. As a result there has been little change to conditions in the alpine except perhaps to melt any remaining snow on some of the South facing alpine rock climbs below 3000m. Above that height you are likely to find mixed climbing on most aspects and definitely on the shaded faces/ridges such as NW Ridge of Sir Donald and and the East Ridge on Mt. Temple, putting them out of reasonable climbing condition. This weeks conditions may have produced some high elevations drips of ice to form but I have no confirmed reports. Snow conditions are well settled allowing for quick travel over glaciers and fine cramponing on the steeper snow/ice faces. The cool temps and good overnight freezes have limited avalanche risk but caution should be utilized near high elevation ridge crests and gullies that may still hold isolated wind slabs. Expect some small brittle cornices in the alpine. Glacier travel is pretty good for this time of year but early season snow bridges always deserve a healthy respect and the protection of roped travel. Things are forecast to start deteriorating as of Friday with Cloud for the Rockies and a low chance of showers for the Columbias. It looks like it may be a better bet to hang in the Rockies for the weekend, as the Selkirks are going to see rain and the Rockies will only see a mix of sun and cloud. It could be another awesome week of weather starting next Monday, so if you can, enjoy the amazing fall climbing. Scott Davis, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] North Face Stanley Peak, Banff

Ideal conditions on the north face of Stanley peak today: 5 - 40+cm of partially refrozen snow made for fast & secure travel.  We avoided all of the ice (climbing only on snow) and crossed the bergshrund easily by climbing from the lower right to upper left of the face.

No rockfall was observed today.  The sun hit the upper margins of the face around 8am, but the angle remained oblique and temperatures on the north side stayed cool and mostly shaded.

Josh Briggs

Ski & Asst. Alpine Guide 

P1040592

 

P1040661

 

P1040664

 

[MCR] Des Poilus and Waputik

Des Poilus and Waputik(See attached file: Waputik.JPG)(See attached file:
Des Poilus Oct 5 2010 67_resize.JPG)
Brad White
Mountain Safety Programs Specialist
Banff, Kootenay and Yoho National Parks
PO Box 900 220 Hawk Ave.
Banff, AB T1L 1K2
403-760-0556 (cell)

[MCR] Monashees - Revelstoke - Mt Begbie - Oct 5th

I scrambled up the North Ridge of Mt Begbie yesterday Oct. 5th under sunny skies.

Foot penetration on the glacier was 2-4cm (fast travel) once I got off the ice and onto the snow (c. 2300m), and still had a crust on the way down at 1pm. The rock was dry.

Alex Geary
Assistant Ski Guide, Assistant Rock Guide

[MCR] Wapta Sept 26 - Oct 3

Spent the past week on the Wapta at Bow and Peyto Huts with Thompson Rivers University students.

 

The past week on the Wapta began with a huge rain event to peak top on September 28^th, causing flooding and mud slides.  A piece of the moraine above the last flat section on the approach to Bow Hut collapsed and caused a mud flow across the trail.  In several places the trail to Bow Hut has been washed out, but the washed out areas are easily passable.   

 

One of our groups reported seeing two logs flowing down Peyto Creek on the approach to Peyto Hut.  They turned around, and it is suspected that the bridge across the creek on the approach to Peyto Hut has been washed downstream.  Sounds like several parts of the approach trail to Peyto Hut are washed out, and it is unknown how this affects the access to Peyto Hut from Peyto Lake.

 

After the rain event, air temperatures did not drop below freezing through October 3^rd, but there was a good surface freeze every night on the rain soaked snow surface.  This made for very easy travel on bare ice near the toe of the glaciers, and on firm crusty snow everywhere else.  We enjoyed 5 days with hardly a cloud in the sky and perfect travel conditions.  On the glaciers, caution is advised as many snow bridges across crevasses are getting soft in the afternoon and it was common to put a foot through.  Wear the rope!  Snow depth ranges from no snow on the ice below 2400 metres, to areas with 140 cm to 190 cm up on the Wapta Icefield. 

 

Collectively we climbed Olive, St. Nicholas, Gordon, Rhondda, Habel, and Thompson with numerous parties.

 

Alpine conditions are still very good.  Start early, and watch for deteriorating snow bridges and rising avalanche / cornice fall / rockfall danger in the afternoon.

 

Jordy Shepherd – Mountain Guide

Jeremy Mackenzie – Mountain Guide

Abby Watkins – Alpine Guide / Asst. Ski Guide

Chris Miller – Mountain Guide

Shaun King – Mountain Guide

 

[MCR] Rockies, Middle Snow/Ice Gully Mt Andromeda

I guided the middle Snow and Ice Gully on Mt Andromeda yesterday, October 3rd. Despite above zero temperatures throughout the day (plus 1 to plus 7) we had very good conditions on the approach, and on the route. Lots of activity in the Icefields during the rain event earlier in the week, a number of size 1 to 2 avalanches off of most steep ice slopes were the rain made the snowpack wet and cut the bond with the ice. Even a size 3 off of the Silverhorn and North Ramp route. Given freezing temps the alpine climbing is very good as the moist snowpack sets up well. Lots of ice smears remain from the rain at present.

We ran into sloppy wet snow on the southeastern exposure leading down to the AA Col. I wouldn't have felt good about being on any big open slopes on that aspect late in the day.

I'm on a campaign to change the name of these climbs away from the "Practice Gullies" as the route that we climbed yesterday is as long, and of better quality, than the routes on the N Face of Mt Fay (see photo below).

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard

Mountain Guide

www.barryblanchard.ca

www.yamnuska.com

I've taken to calling the left hand climb "Far Earth", the middle "Middle Earth", and the right "Near Earth". The slope leading to the AA Col (not pictured) is "Little Earth". Join the campaign, lobby any guide book authors that you know.

[MCR] Fay Conditions

Climbed the West ridge on Fay via the Perren Route on the 29 & 30^th. There were significant patches of verglas on the lower Perren where the sun doesn’t reach. Ice smears were forming and falling off above and to the right of the chains on the Perren. Travel on the Fay glacier was excellent with a very supportive rime crust from the 9/27 precipitation event. Crevasses seemed well bridged. The west ridge had significant covering of Styrofoam snow on it which really did not hamper travel much and glued the rubble in nicely; we used crampons all the way. The Fay ice routes all looked good as did the gulleys on the E face of Mt Little. There was significant old avalanche debris up to size 2.5 from almost every major gulley feature on Fay and Little and I saw no evidence of snow instabilities in the immediate area. Viewed from afar the long ice gulley on Ringrose (Condgon/McNab) looked to be “in”.

 

James Blench

 

James Blench

www.jamesblench.ca

(403)678-2576 home

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