We were the first of two parties on Oh Le Tabernac today, Jan 26. The climb hadn't seen much traffic, if any, before today. Chandeliery ice for 25 meters, finding good screws a challenge. That section should be easier now with the passage of 5 climbers. The top 25 meters from the bolted anchors on the right side of the route was good, solid, steep ice. A curtain of ice right of the route sheared off when the sun swung around in the morning. We were careful not to belay, or hang out, under any hangers.
We walked up to Whoa Whoa Capitaine and Le Miserables but were too late in the day with too much sun and ice pieces falling from the sides. Bum slid down, rappeled, and walked away.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
1 403 609 4615
cell 1 403 609 1321
