Climbed the route today. Mix of soft, wet ice and sun baked junk. Good screw placements required a bit of digging around in the bad ice.
Its a good idea to pick your line on this side of the wall from the road as the bench beneath the last pitch has melted away exposing the cliff and large amounts of running water. You cannot see this from the base.
Expect more melting/icefall than normal on sunny days. Icefields Parkway was very slippery in spots, with 2 cars in the ditch on the way home this afternoon.
Have fun!
Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide
Alpine Guide