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Wednesday, January 27, 2010

[MCR] Bourgeau Right Hand

Climbed this morning, -22 in the parking lot a bit before 7. 
 
The route is catching full sun by 915. 
 
Numerous thin spots (less than 5cm thick) on first and second pitch - not sure how much longer it will stick around.? 
 
Used short (10cm) screws and screamers.  As mentioned earlier this year the route is in dire need of anchor upgrades.
 
In the last week or so the sun's power has increased dramatically.  Seems prudent to have earlier starts on routes that are in the sun (or have terrain above/below them which is in the sun).  We were happy to be back at the truck before 11.
 
Have fun!
 
Mike Stuart
Alpine Guide