Climbed Bourgeau left today. On route we found near perfect conditions. Despite some sun affect on the first and last pitch gear was good. The anchor at the top of the second pitch is basically done and needs total replacement. A single bolt hole is visible and appears to be full depth, making for what i beleive to be a quick 3/8" replacement does not look like 10mm(?).
On another note, the trail was good but once in the open became hard to follow due to recent wind/snow cover. We followed the harder surfaces to the base of the route in order to avoid punching to our knees. For the most part we found good support over shallow sections of wind/temperature affected snow.
Depending on the snow that comes in over weekend (possibly as much as 20cm without considering wind and colder overall temperatures) the approach might take on a completely different feel. I don't get the feeling the snow will stick too well to the steeper sections.
Cheers
Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide
alpineguide@hotmail.com
403 688 6003
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