On the Coast, the past few weeks have been very hot and dry. Any Squamish rock climb that is known to seep should be as dry as it is ever going to be so get to it! The Tantalus Range is still looking snowy but I suspect travel conditions could be good if you hit it on a cool morning. I bet glacier coverage is still pretty good too, so routes that are preferable in snowy conditions could be good to go. Ditto for the Duffy Lake peaks and we saw a track up the Anniversary Glacier. Beware the daytime warming though and get a real alpine start to get off steep slopes before the sun gets on them.
Rogers Pass was looking like it was coming into shape. Sir D is still holding some snow but it could be ready in a couple of weeks. The lower peaks are drying out decently and easier routes are probably climbable, with some snow patches. Peaks where snowy gullies help with approaches are probably something to think about, eg Macdonald. However, it all depends on how consolidated the snow is, it might still be postholing. Again, very early starts would be mandatory.
In the Rockies, it seems to me that the west side of the highway is looking a bit snowier than normal for this time of year and the east side is a bit drier. Castle for example looks like late June or early July up there (no snow on the summits and the normal snow patches on the Goat Plateau), while the Lake Louise/Moraine Lake peaks are still looking pretty plastered especially the north aspects.
Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
www.alpinism.com