Hello,
The Yamnuska Mountain Skills Semester, Sarah H. and I have just returned from an attempt on Mt Columbia. Very little other traffic up on the Icefield during our time up there which was suprizing given the great weather. A few notes to pass on for folks heading up that way. We were unsuccessful in climbing Mt Columbia as we were turned back from the East Face by slabby snow conditions. Snow stability tests showed a varieable depth slab (10-60cm) sitting on a hard crust and 3-4mm Surface Hoar was easily visable at this interface. Clean, moderate shears were observed at this layer. We also attempted the South ridge of Columbia and were turned back at about 3500m by warm temps affecting the snow pack. The South ridge had previously been climbed and with a good freeze I would imagine it would be in good shape as we did not find the same snow conditions as on the East Face.
The Icefield still has plenty of snow 250cm at the top of the Athabasca glacier and more than 350cm at the Trench. Of note are the depths of snow coming up the Athabasca glacier which are becoming thin very quickly. We were able to use the centre ramp coming up the Athabasca ice fall (descrided by Barry in an earlier MCR) in both dirrections but it was getting a bit sporty when we desended. I would not recommend it if you don't have a good freeze as there are many snow bridges to cross that are unavoidable.
It seems like great conditions out there as long as you have an early start with a good freeze and are off the snow before it warms up. Keep your eyes open for those remaining winter like snow pack areas.
Enjoy the good weather,
Jesse de Montigny
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
ACMG Ski Guide
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide
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