Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbias, June 11 2009
More seasonal weather has arrived and with it, conditions are changing fast. The forecast for the Rockies and Columbia mountains over the weekend is variable with the only constant being significantly warmer temperatures then what we have recently had.
There is still a significant difference between the front ranges and the bigger peaks along the Continental Divide and Columbias.
Many of the rock routes on Mt Louis and and Castle will soon be dry but expect snow and ice on the descents. People have been climbing routes on Lady MacDonald and Fable with reports of mostly dry conditions. Most of the routes on the East End Of Rundle have wet streaks running down them but the sport routes on the left side of the face are dry and have been seeing regular traffic.
On the higher peaks, early spring conditions will be the norm. There were still reports of isolated windslabs in some parts of the Columbia Icefields early this week and a continued emphasis on good overnight freezing and daytime warming are important. Several loose snow avalanches have been observed in the last two days as well as cornice triggered slabs similar to the one pictured in Brad White’s photos. It is all about the timing...
The big alpine rock climbs of the Bugaboos and Roger’s Pass are still a fair way from being ready. It will take several consecutive days of above freezing temperatures at mountain top before they are clear of snow.
Below freezing temperatures and clear skies will be the recipe necessary for snow and ice routes with a keen eye for the early rising sun on the slopes above. In the front ranges it is getting to be the time of year to keep an eye out for afternoon thundershowers like the ones forecast for Friday afternoon in the Kananaskis area.
Marc Piché
ACMG, IFMGA Mountain Guide