ACMG MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS SUMMARY FOR THE ROCKIES AND COLUMBIAS JUNE 4, 2009.
Fair weather continues to promote receding of the winter snow line. Wet slab and loose snow avalanches as well as cornice failures continue to occur. Upper elevation north aspects still retain a winter snowpack with concerns for midpack and deep instabilities. Overnight radiation freezes are critical. As we approach the solstice, it is important to remember how early and late the sun will affect snow slopes. A number of alpine rock routes are coming into shape but approaches and descents will require negotiating some snow slopes. A significant change in weather is forecasted for the Rockies over the weekend with precipitation and snow possible down to valley bottoms. It sounds hard to believe sitting on the deck in this summer weather.
In the Rockies south of the Columbia Icefields and east of the main ranges conditions have improved. Routes such as Castle Tower and routes on the lower tier of Castle are getting climbed. The upper tier of Castle is likely also in reasonable shape but it will be a snow wallow getting to the descent gully. The Gmoser and Kain routes on Mt. Louis are probably getting close. Again, the descent gully will likely still have snow and ice in it. Lower elevation Front Range routes in Jasper such as Bedson Ridge are in good shape but at last report the higher objectives were still snowy. Along the Continental Divide it will still take a while. All of the high objectives from Edith Cavell to Assiniboine are very much in winter conditions although steep snow slopes are starting to show ice. Lower peaks such as Grassi Ridge are climbable but will require negotiating some snow. At the Columbia Icefields, reports indicate varying conditions but with early starts and finishes, the north face routes and the AA route on Athabasca appear to be in good shape.
In the interior ranges, the deeper winter snowpack still prevails. In the Bugaboos, the snowline is still well below the Kain Hut (see Gord Irwin’s photos taken yesterday). There are no recent reports from Roger’s pass but it is likely that routes in the Sir Donald and Hermit area are still a ways off. The timing for the routes on Mt. McDonald might be right if there is enough snow to deal with the alder bash and yet be manageable from a stability perspective. I also noticed some serious moats forming there when driving by a week ago.
We are turning the corner on a late spring. Stay tuned on reports from ACMG guides working in the various ranges.
Marc Ledwidge
ACMG/UIAGM Mountain Guide