[MCR] Ha Ling, Castle Mtn, and EEOR (Generosity)

Out touring some local rock over the last few days.

Generosity on EEOR is dry all the way (including the chimney crux). Kicked in a new path for the traverse out of the scree bowl on top yesterday, which was, as always, a bit slippery, loose and exhilaratingly exposed for a few metres. No snow of consequence remains at the top, and everything seemed pretty sticky up there as far as spontaneous rockfall from the bowl is concerned.  

If you haven't done it, it is surprisingly well protected in the 5.9/.10a cruxes, fairly sustained in the upper two-thirds and I'd recommend it for the rock quality and variety. However, it is quite a bit longer than shown on any of the topos I've seen. I'd put it at around 550m, not the stated 400m. On a side note, if you have to retreat, almost all of the 12-14 bolted belays need fresh rap slings.

On Brewer's Buttress on Castle over the weekend. The route is dry with no unavoidable snow on the approach. Still plenty of snow in the descent gully and lots of water running in the approach gully below the hut. The hut got a new stove and some deluxe thickness foamies since I was last there! 

Up Ha Ling's NE Butt as well. Surprisingly little evidence of the massive rockfall that ran over the lower portion of the route a couple of weeks ago; however, some of the approach ledges on climber's left of the initial scrambly pitches seem more eroded and discontinuous than I remember. No particularly significant new death blocks or other loose rock hazards, at any rate. Overall, the route was in perfect shape except for a couple of avoidable water seeps in the upper corner pitches and some newly precarious blocks/holds there. Sisyphus also looked totally dry.

Carl Johnston

Rock Guide

[MCR] East End of Rundle (EEOR's Tail)

Climbed EEOR's tail yesterday Sunday. Everything is absolutely dry including
the final three chimney pitches. If you chose to rappel before the right
traverse into the chimney it's a good idea to bring some of those beefier
lockable chain links as some of the rap stations are missing them.

Jorg Wilz

Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA)
www.ontopmountaineering.com
1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt. Edith South Ridge

I climbed the South Ridge of the South Peak of Mt Edith Today.   I encountered snow in two areas.  One was the start of the route in the the gully before getting onto the rock; perfect step kicking for about 40 meters and the other place place was in the chimney- the hole on the descent (or the scrambling route).  Near the bottom there is ice, but easily avoided by using the rock on the climbers left.

Overall the route is in great shape.

Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Report- Rockies and Columbias, June 25 2009

Conditions in the forecast ranges continue to improve but the theme remains the same anywhere there is snow and ice.

Early starts, clear nights with a good freeze and finishing early before things get too hot will give you the best chance of success on the big peaks.  

People have been reporting generally good travel conditions on the high glaciers recently but post holing lower down where the snow cover is thinner.  There are still some very big cornices lurking around in some spots and rock fall is still an issue once the sun comes out.  

The unsettled weather of the last week has left up to 20cm of new snow above ~2400-2600m depending on the range.  This will dry out quickly on the sunnier rock routes but you can expect snow and verglass on the shady aspects.

Rockies
A fair bit of climbing going on in the Columbia Icefields area but also some report of very long times taken to climb routes due to deep wet snow.  The Wapta Peaks seem to be in good shape with good snow cover on the glaciers and the peaks around Lake Louise should shape up again once we have had a few clear nights.  Castle, Louis, Edith and many of the K-Country rock peaks are in good shape but even down south (Kananaskis) you can expect new snow once you move further west toward the divide.  There have also been lots of bear sightings in K-Country.  

Columbias
Similar conditions to the Rockies will exist on the snow and ice routes while the lower elevation rock routes like Tupper, Crescent and the like should be in good shape after one dry day.  The higher rock routes in the Bugaboos and Rogers Pass will likely take at least a few hot days to clean up.  Sounds like the trail to the Kain hut is mostly snow free but there is still a fair bit in the moraines above.  See the photo from Peter Macpherson at the Bugaboo Lodge.

The descent gully for Mt MacDonald in Rogers Pass is still full of avalanche debris which makes this descent far nicer than the alder bash it becomes once the snow is gone...

In short, keep an eye out for timing and overhead hazards and enjoy the hills this weekend.


Marc Piché
ACMG, IFMGA
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Grassi Lakes Closure lifted

The Grassi Lakes climbing area has been re-opened.  The road crew has completed the work on the highway so it’s good to go.  

 

Mike Koppang SG

Kananaskis Country Public Safety

 

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[MCR] David Thompson Country - June 20, 21, 2009

Spent the weekend in David Thompson Country doing a Scrambles Leadership
course for the Calgary Section of the ACC. I was a bit surprised to see how
much snow still remains in the area but I guess I shouldn't be, given what
is going on everywhere else. Much like the front ranges in Jasper, the south
aspects are about as dry as they usually are in June.

Looking at the north aspects of things south of the North Saskatchewan River
it looks a lot like the aerial photo I posted of the Jasper area front
ranges a week ago. Other aspects still had snow in gully features that would
normally be dry at this time of year. Those familiar with DT country know
this place is a massive rain shadow and to have snow lingering at this time
of year is a bit odd here.

On Saturday scrambled up the two fore-peaks of Earnest Ross and only made a
total of ten steps in the snow to gain the second peak. Later in the weekend
I got a look at the north side of Mt. Cline which understandably looked very
white up high.

Abraham, Windy Slabs, the Kadoona Mountains, William Booth and Earnest Ross
Peak are all dry. Still a lot of leftover waterfall ice having around at Two
O'clock Falls... (no, not climbable!)

Also of note is the fact that there was recent controlled burning between
Saskatchewan Crossing and Whirlpool Point. Some stuff is still smoldering /
smoking and you may want to check into that before committing to an
objective in that area in the short term.

Cyril Shokoples MG

http://www.rescuedynamics.ca
http://www.rescuedynamics.com

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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] David Thompson Country - June 20, 21, 2009

Spent the weekend in David Thompson Country doing a Scrambles Leadership
course for the Calgary Section of the ACC. I was a bit surprised to see how
much snow still remains in the area but I guess I shouldn't be given what is
going on everywhere else. Much like the front ranges in Jasper, the south
aspects are about as dry as they usually are in June.

Looking at the north aspects of things south of the North Saskatchewan River
it looks a lot like the aerial photo I posted of the Jasper area front
ranges a week ago. Other aspects still had snow in gully features that would
normally be dry at this time of year. Those familiar with DT country know
this place is a massive rain shadow and to have snow lingering at this time
of year is a bit odd here.

On Saturday scrambled up the two fore-peaks of Earnest Ross and only made a
total of ten steps in the snow to gain the second peak. Later in the weekend
I got a look at the north side of Mt. Cline which understandably looked very
white up high.

Abraham, Windy Slabs, the Kadoona Mountains, William Booth and Earnest Ross
Peak are all dry. Still a lot of leftover waterfall ice having around at Two
O'clock Falls... (no, not climbable!)

Also of note is the fact that there was recent controlled burning between
Saskatchewan Crossing and Whirlpool Point. Some stuff is still smoldering /
smoking and you may want to check into that before committing to an
objective in that area in the short term.

Cyril Shokoples MG

http://www.rescuedynamics.ca
http://www.rescuedynamics.com

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Columbia Icefields, boundary glacier and A2

Spent the last 3 days at the icefields from June 20-22.
There was no freeze in the last 3 days at lower elevations. This
morning (June 22) at 3:30am it was +5, raining lightly in the parking lot.

Yesterday up boundary glacier over col and down North Glacier on
Athabasca. the ramp on the boundary glacier is still holding together
and the snow was soft but supportive. Coming down the North glacier
side the snowpack was supportive for the upper half then went to
post-holing from knees to mid thigh till the snow ran out near the
top of the ramp.

Today climbed A2. Snow was wet yet supportive in upper part of
glacier with boot top penetration.
A few cm of new snow above 8500ft that came down this morning. Didn't
hear any activity off of Athabasca on the east side though the sun
never really broke through.

All during the last 3 days it has felt humid and muggy on the snow.
The snowpack is isothermal in many places and only where over a metre
thick is the snowpack supportive.

Wouldn't have wanted to be on any slopes of any steepness or consequence today.

The warm trend has certainly helped to consolidate the snowpack. With
a cooling trend and a good freeze conditions should get much better.

Peter Amann

Matt Reynolds
Peter Amann
pamann@incentre.net

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt Athabasca A/A col route June 20 09

The peaks in the Ice Field area have been receiving snow and rain showers on and off since June 15th. The upper alpine areas above 9500ft have 10-15cm of new snow and much more then this on lee loaded ridge top features, North and East aspects.  

The Sky Ladder route on Mt Andromeda, the North Face, the Silverhorn, and the bench on the North side of Athabasca looked loaded up with recent storm snow. At the end of the day these routes were all showing size 1-2 loose snow avalanche activity.

 

On the A/A col travel conditions were good with 10cm foot pen, weather was very mixed with short periods of sun, snow fall and strong west winds. A good freeze above 9000ft and moist snow below. The bergshrund is still well covered over and easy to pass, the bergshrund below the A/A col proper is now wide open all the way across.

 

With more snow and rain in the forecast mountain conditions will take some time to improve, careful consideration is required with route selection, the amount of time required to complete a route and pockets of wind slab on loaded lee slopes.

 

Cheers,

Mark Stewart, MG

Cirrus Alpine Guides

 

 

[MCR] Wapta

Climbed St Nicholas, Mt Olive and Mt Gordon from Bow Hut on June 20th. Good step kicking with ankle to boot top penetration and the very occasional post hole. Coverage on the icefield is good at present with few crevasses open and not much evidence of bridges sagging. The only avalanches that I noted were triggered by cornice collapses or serac calvings.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard

UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

[MCR] Mountain conditions report June 18 2009

Summer is on its way but not quite here yet.

Warmer temperatures throughout the forecast ranges has melted a lot of snow but spring conditions still exist.

Front range rock routes are dry from Kananaskisk to Jasper but the bigger alpine rock routes, including the Bugaboos and Rogers Pass still need some time.

Waist deep foot penetration can be expected on the higher glaciers and alpine routes without a good freeze, but otherwise good conditions exist.

Recent cornice and rockfall have been observed but with good overnight freezes and good timing, good conditions exist.

Have a great weekend.

Marc Piché
ACMG Mountain Guide
Sent on the TELUS Mobility network with BlackBerry
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Peasant's Route, Squamish Chief

A tree has dislodged itself from the crack and fallen over the third pitch of Peasant's route on the Chief. The tree lies right across the climbing line between the two bolts on the pitch just above the crux. There is no way around it, but with some force you can bushwack your way through it.
 
I recommend bringing a small folding saw with you up there. Unless you are prepared to clean a little don't try to pull it out of the crack because you will send mud and debris down the pitch below it.
 
Conny Amelunxen
Mountain Guide

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[MCR] Lake OHara conditions

In the past ten days, spring has finally sprung at O'Hara. Conditions are probably the driest I have seen for June 17th in the past ten years.Trails to Linda Lake, Wiwaxy Gap and Lake Oesa are dry but it will be wet and tedious walking in the forests to Opabin and Schaeffer Lake for a while yet.

 

A long period of sustained hot days, warm nights and some rain to well above mountaintops has given us a proper early summer snowpack. Travel conditions and avalanche risk are all about what has happened in the recent past. In other words, the big questions are-Has it snowed recently? or- Is the snowpack getting really warm?

 

With a good freeze all the classic snow and ice faces are in good shape. A few HUGE cornices are still looming and you can bet they are groaning and creaking in the heat. The Victoria south ridge would probably feel very "Alaskan". LOTS of rockfall, wet slides and general nastiness in the daytime heat and during the rain so timing is everything for the next while. Going to Abbott Pass in the afternoon would be a REALLY bad idea right now. Crossing Cataract Brook to get to Cathedral could be a sporty little swim for short people right now.

 

 Alpine rock routes like Hungabee are still in poor shape but the Tarrant buttress is drying out fast. Grassi Ridge is free of winter snow but the descent may have some nasty snow to traverse in the upper gullies after you get off the pk itself.

 

On the afternoon of the 17th light snow was sticking to the ground above 2700m. I believe the Public buses start running on the 19th.

 

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

laristan@telus.net 

[MCR] Moraine Lake Rockpile trail

Moraine Lake Rockpile Trail Closur
June 14, 2009

The Moraine Lake Rockpile trail, (the 300m interpretive trail at the north
end of Moraine Lake) will be closed until the end of June for major
maintenance work. During this time access to the beginning of the
Consolation Lakes trail and climbing routes on the Tower of Babel will be
affected.

The main Consolation Lakes/Rockpile trail is closed right from the Moraine
Lake, Parking lot for approximately 200m, up to the junction with the
Consolation Lakes trail. To access the Consolation Lakes trail beyond the
construction (and the Tower of Babel approaches etc), it is recommended
that you walk around the south side of the Rockpile, along the lakeshore
flats while water levels are low.

Please do not scramble up the slides of the Rockpile or walk through the
construction site. Masonry work is underway to repair the steps and
upgrade the pathway.

As the contractor progresses up the trail the completed sections will be
re-opened to allow the traditional access to the points beyond. This
closure will be in place for at least the next 10 days. We expect the
trail to be fully open before the end of June, if not sooner.

For more information, please contact Parks Canada Project Manager Alex
Taylor at 403-522-1230.

Marc Ledwidge
Manager, Mountain Safety Programs
Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks
220 Hawk Avenue
Box 900, Banff, AB
T1L 1K2
Ph: 403-762-1401

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Squamish - Banff traverse

OK, we didn't do this on skis or foot but a cool traverse all the same via Highways 99 and 1 in my '92 Mitsubishi Delica. Lots of time to admire the scenery as we slowly chugged up the steep passes.

On the Coast, the past few weeks have been very hot and dry. Any Squamish rock climb that is known to seep should be as dry as it is ever going to be so get to it! The Tantalus Range is still looking snowy but I suspect travel conditions could be good if you hit it on a cool morning. I bet glacier coverage is still pretty good too, so routes that are preferable in snowy conditions could be good to go. Ditto for the Duffy Lake peaks and we saw a track up the Anniversary Glacier. Beware the daytime warming though and get a real alpine start to get off steep slopes before the sun gets on them.

Rogers Pass was looking like it was coming into shape. Sir D is still holding some snow but it could be ready in a couple of weeks. The lower peaks are drying out decently and easier routes are probably climbable, with some snow patches. Peaks where snowy gullies help with approaches are probably something to think about, eg Macdonald. However, it all depends on how consolidated the snow is, it might still be postholing. Again, very early starts would be mandatory.

In the Rockies, it seems to me that the west side of the highway is looking a bit snowier than normal for this time of year and the east side is a bit drier. Castle for example looks like late June or early July up there (no snow on the summits and the normal snow patches on the Goat Plateau), while the Lake Louise/Moraine Lake peaks are still looking pretty plastered especially the north aspects.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

www.alpinism.com

[MCR] Mt Athabasca, June 11, 2009

Had a beautiful sunny day on Mt Athabasca yesterday via the AA Col Route, alongside Steve Blagbrough. 

 

Travel conditions were excellent on the glacier and steeper snow slopes with good crampon purchase on firm snow, no ice showing yet.  The bergschrund was well filled in and crossed easily.  Above 3000m on North aspects there was still soft/dry snow from the storm on the night of  the 7th that deposited 20-30cm up high.  We elected not to ascend/descend the North Glacier ramp due to potential wind-slabs formed by this snow.  It was +2'C at the summit by 0930 so this should help the storm snow settle out soon.

 

We were happy to be off the glacier by noon as the snow travel was softening quickly, and hazard from falling rocks/snow was on the rise.

 

Have fun out there!

 

Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.conradjanzenguiding.com

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbias, June 11 2009

Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbias, June 11 2009

More seasonal weather has arrived  and with it, conditions are changing fast.  The forecast for the Rockies and Columbia mountains over the weekend is variable with the only constant being significantly warmer temperatures then what we have recently had.

There is still a significant difference between the front ranges and the bigger peaks along the Continental Divide and Columbias.

Many of the rock routes on Mt Louis and and Castle will soon be dry but expect snow and ice on the descents.  People have been climbing routes on Lady MacDonald and Fable with reports of mostly dry conditions.  Most of the routes on the East End Of Rundle have wet streaks running down them but the sport routes on the left side of the face are dry and have been seeing regular traffic.

On the higher peaks, early spring conditions will be the norm.  There were still reports of isolated windslabs in some parts of the Columbia Icefields early this week and a continued emphasis on good overnight freezing and daytime warming are important.  Several loose snow avalanches have been observed in the last two days as well as cornice triggered slabs similar to the one pictured in Brad White’s photos.  It is all about the timing...

The big alpine rock climbs of the Bugaboos and Roger’s Pass are still a fair way from being ready.  It will take several consecutive days of above freezing temperatures at mountain top before they are clear of snow.

Below freezing temperatures and clear skies will be the recipe necessary for snow and ice routes with a keen eye for the early rising sun on the slopes above.  In the front ranges it is getting to be the time of year to keep an eye out for afternoon thundershowers like the ones forecast for Friday afternoon in the Kananaskis area.

 
Marc Piché
ACMG, IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Mt Yamnuska-Missionary's Crack Ravens

There is an active Raven's nest on pitch six of Missionary's Crack on
Yamnuska. We rapped off from the top of pitch three so as not to disturb
them.

Percy Woods
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Jasper area avalanche observations - June 3, 4 2009

Jer and Conrad were climbing in Lost Boys (dry conditions) on Wednesday and
around noon heard a large avalanche in the distance. When driving to the
Icefields on Thursday June 4 we noted a slab avalanche high on Gerldine Peak
which was the likely culprit. The east facing bowl high on the peak released
a size 2 slab which ran a long distance over steep rock cliffs. One or two
other size two events were noted on east aspects during the drive to the
Icefields.

Spent Thursday at the Parker Ridge Crevasse rescue practice area where an
unseasonably large amount of snow still sits on the ground. The snowline has
now crawled up to around treeline on the west aspects along the parkway.
Scrambles such as Nigel, Tangle and Sunwapta are still not in shape.

Someone climbed the N Glacier route on Athabasca on Thursday but no report
of conditions there. Still very snowy at the Icefields in general. Ice is
starting to show at the toe of the North glacier and we will report on that
at the end of the day. A2 has a lot of snow coverage on the glacier at this
point and the N facing ice face is still mostly a snow face.

Further north near Jasper townsite the south aspects are drying off rapidly
with yesterdays roasting hot temperatures. Forecast for the next few days is
grim however with a return to cold temperatures and showers.

Cyril Shokoples MG
Jeremy Mackenzie MG
Peter Amann MG

Rescue Dynamics
http://www.rescuedynamics.ca
http://www.rescuedynamics.com

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Jasper - Hidden Valley - possible safety hazard

Some time between 5PM June 1 and 8AM on June 2 a sheep managed to fall to
its death at the base of the old traditional climbing route called Old Salt
in Hidden Valley. Old Salt is just beyond the popular 1st wall sport
climbing area. By the end of June 2nd various animals had begun discovering
the carcass and had started to open the gut and expose the entrails. This
dead sheep is only a few feet from the main trail and cannot be avoided if
travelling up the valley.

The smell had reached to the top of the main south wall climbing routes by
early afternoon and it is likely that if a person could smell it then other
more aggressive predators may be attracted to the area as well.

It is likely a good idea to give Hidden Valley a miss for a couple of weeks
to avoid any unfortunate encounters with bears, cougars or the like. Just
for information, both black and grizzly bears have been spotted over the
years in Hidden Valley but they are a rare occurrence. This situation may
change that for the short term so caution is advised.

Cyril Shokoples
Jeremy Mackenzie
Peter Amann

Rescue Dynamics
http://www.rescuedynamics.ca
http://www.rescuedynamics.com

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbias, June 4 2009.

ACMG MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS SUMMARY FOR THE ROCKIES AND COLUMBIAS JUNE 4, 2009.

 

Fair weather continues to promote receding of the winter snow line.  Wet slab and loose snow avalanches as well as cornice failures continue to occur.  Upper elevation north aspects still retain a winter snowpack with concerns for midpack and deep instabilities.  Overnight radiation freezes are critical.  As we approach the solstice, it is important to remember how early and late the sun will affect snow slopes.  A number of alpine rock routes are coming into shape but approaches and descents will require negotiating some snow slopes.  A significant change in weather is forecasted for the Rockies over the weekend with precipitation and snow possible down to valley bottoms.  It sounds hard to believe sitting on the deck in this summer weather.

 

In the Rockies south of the Columbia Icefields and east of the main ranges conditions have improved.  Routes such as Castle Tower and routes on the lower tier of Castle are getting climbed.  The upper tier of Castle is likely also in reasonable shape but it will be a snow wallow getting to the descent gully.  The Gmoser and Kain routes on Mt. Louis are probably getting close.  Again, the descent gully will likely still have snow and ice in it. Lower elevation Front Range routes in Jasper such as Bedson Ridge are in good shape but at last report the higher objectives were still snowy.  Along the Continental Divide it will still take a while.  All of the high objectives from Edith Cavell to Assiniboine are very much in winter conditions although steep snow slopes are starting to show ice.  Lower peaks such as Grassi Ridge are climbable but will require negotiating some snow.  At the Columbia Icefields, reports indicate varying conditions but with early starts and finishes, the north face routes and the AA route on Athabasca appear to be in good shape.

 

In the interior ranges, the deeper winter snowpack still prevails.  In the Bugaboos, the snowline is still well below the Kain Hut (see Gord Irwin’s photos taken yesterday).  There are no recent reports from Roger’s pass but it is likely that routes in the Sir Donald and Hermit area are still a ways off.  The timing for the routes on Mt. McDonald might be right if there is enough snow to deal with the alder bash and yet be manageable from a stability perspective.  I also noticed some serious moats forming there when driving by a week ago.

 

We are turning the corner on a late spring.  Stay tuned on reports from ACMG guides working in the various ranges.

 

Marc Ledwidge

ACMG/UIAGM Mountain Guide

 

 

 

[MCR] Mt Columbia

Hello,

The Yamnuska Mountain Skills Semester, Sarah H. and I have just returned from an attempt on Mt Columbia. Very little other traffic up on the Icefield during our time up there which was suprizing given the great weather. A few notes to pass on for folks heading up that way. We were unsuccessful in climbing Mt Columbia as we were turned back from the East Face by slabby snow conditions. Snow stability tests showed a varieable depth slab (10-60cm) sitting on a hard crust and 3-4mm Surface Hoar was easily visable at this interface. Clean, moderate shears were observed at this layer. We also attempted the South ridge of Columbia and were turned back at about 3500m by warm temps affecting the snow pack. The South ridge had previously been climbed and with a good freeze I would imagine it would be in good shape as we did not find the same snow conditions as on the East Face.

The Icefield still has plenty of snow 250cm at the top of the Athabasca glacier and more than 350cm at the Trench. Of note are the depths of snow coming up the Athabasca glacier which are becoming thin very quickly. We were able to use the centre ramp coming up the Athabasca ice fall (descrided by Barry in an earlier MCR) in both dirrections but it was getting a bit sporty when we desended. I would not recommend it if you don't have a good freeze as there are many snow bridges to cross that are unavoidable.

It seems like great conditions out there as long as you have an early start with a good freeze and are off the snow before it warms up. Keep your eyes open for those remaining winter like snow pack areas.

Enjoy the good weather,

Jesse de Montigny
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
ACMG Ski Guide
ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide

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[MCR] Mt Robson video cam

Just found out about this cam just put in at the Robson info Centre.
Not sure yet if it is year round but a descent shot of both the
weather and "general" view of the SW side of Mt. Robson. At least you
can tell if there is fresh snow on the lower slopes....or if the
weather is socked in.....cool!

http://142.27.132.71/view/index.shtml

Peter Amann
Mountain Guide
pamann@incentre.net

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Lake Louise Big Bee Hive

I took a group hiking today to the Big Bee Hive from the Plain of Six Glaciers side. From the intersection of the connector trail to Mirror Lake on, 2/3 of the trail is snow covered and there was no evidence of previous travel. Same goes for the northern aspect trail that leads up from Lake Agnes – very wintery looking and no tracks! Any snowy spots were unsupportive already in the morning, mind you we travelled on a southern aspect.  

 

We also did the tourist trail up the rock pile at Morraine Lake. Again, a very wintery look for the valley of the 10 peaks! There is still snow on the treed ledge of the Tower of Babel rock route and some snow in the upper part of the descent couloir.  The 3.5 couloir appears in good condition but beware of the day time warming both for climbing up and skiing…….

 

Cheers,

Jorg Wilz

Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA / VDBS)

 

www.ontopmountaineering.com

1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717

 

[MCR] Andromeda Practice Gullies

Climbed the right "Practice Gully" on Andromeda today. Excellent
conditions on a great moderate classic route, it still felt a bit like
winter up there today. Overhead cornice hazard on right gully is
minimal. There is a huge cornice over the left gully and a couple of
medium-sized hanging ones over the middle gully that looked
well-rooted for now in the cold temps. The middle gully looks to be in
excellent condition as well with continuous snow and ice to an easy
exit between the cornices at the top. We descended the AA Col. Some
new snow (up to 30 cm overlying brittle ice) lower down on the gully
and on the descent made for good steps.

Thin coverage on the glacier -- 0 to 200cm. Right gully bergschrund is
fairly well bridged, ~ 250 cm where we crossed in the middle. Top
rubbly ledges are currently covered with about 20-30 cm of facetted
snow which held things together. Good freeze overnight (2C at 4am in
the parking lot with clear skies) and cool temps throughout the day
meant the snow even on the descent on steep south facing slopes above
AA col was still firm in the early afternoon. We used a few pitons and
a few small to medium cams for the anchors for the mixed pitches at
the top (4th class).

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt. Athabasca area-May 30 and 31/09

Spent May 30 and 31 around the Mt. Athabasca area.

May 30- Plenty of snow at Parkers ridge that was isothermal and sloppy
on Saturday. Still offered a good opportunity to practice basic snow
climbing skills.

May 31- Went from the toe of the North Athabasca glacier to the
Boundary-Athabasca col and over to the west ridge of A2 peak (a small
peak between Mt. Hilda and the East side of Athabasca).
There was bare ice on the steep part of the glacier toe with
increasingly deep snow as we gained the col. With a good overnight
freeze (-2 at 4am at the campground) the travel was fast and the
didn't start to soften until mid afternoon. Similar conditions were
found on the Boundary glacier (snow was 1.5 -2 meters deep) with most
of the big slots still well hidden with the winter snow.

All in all conditions are highly variable. The glaciers felt pretty
good while frozen hard but would be terrifying if in isothermal
conditions. The same goes for the snow and ice faces. It is probably
wise to still stay off committing high Northerly aspects that haven't
had a really good exposure to the heat of spring ie: the ramp route on
Athabasca. With a good overnight freeze and an early start many other
routes such as the AA col route, Silverhorn, North Face of Athabasca,
Skyladder appear to have minimal winter snow lurking above and plenty
of bare ice exposed. The Andromeda Strain, Shooting Gallery, Asteroid
Alley, and Grand Central Couloir could be in really good condition
with properly cool overnight temps and minimal daytime warming.

Beware that sun exposed descents late in the afternoon and warming
cornices are a major concern this time of year and are a major
consideration when looking at the choice of routes and timing of your
climbs.

Rob Owens- ACMG alpine guide and Assistant Ski Guide

mobile 403-609-0960

www.robowensguiding.com

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.