As I started up the third pitch I tried not to swing too hard, but with the freshly frozen skin, I had to. One swing responded in what felt like a snow slope settling, except we were ice climbing, a large whoomphing crack sound. I was quickly reminded of Sharon's MCR and although I couldn't see any fracturing other than the usual from my tools, it felt like these changing temperatures were making this "shell" a little insecure.
It seemed to stay below zero in the shade out there today, but I'm sure it was warmer in the sun. Looking back at it in the daylight, the top of the third pitch looks very rock exposed and only has a couple of ways up it. The right hand side looked more inviting.
Sarah Hueniken
ACMG Alpine Guide
----- Original Message ----
From: Public Mountain Conditions Report <mcr@informalex.org>
To: mcr@informalex.org
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 6:13:52 PM
Subject: [MCR] Louise Falls
Spooky experience on Louise Falls today. We were first up on the pillar and at 3/4's height when it cracked horizontally just below my tools. It gave a mighty crack, settled a little and the fracture line ripped across in both directions triggering a dagger 15 meters to my left at the same level. The dagger was approximately one meter plus in diameter and just missed a climber on the pitch below.
There were three parties below. The leader just below me scrambled to a tree on the far left, another party just beginning, and one waiting. The party on the ground, watching me, claims they could see the crack from the ground. All three parties bailed and went home.
Other than that, the middle line was dry and brittle and the lines left and right were wet. The temp was minus 5.
We still haven't succeeded in eliminating all the looming daggers (ie. last weeks report of the right side going) but they seem to be coming down with very little persuasion. Heads up and aim for the trees.
Sharon Wood
ACMG Alpine Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.