pillar and at 3/4's height when it cracked horizontally just below my
tools. It gave a mighty crack, settled a little and the fracture line
ripped across in both directions triggering a dagger 15 meters to my
left at the same level. The dagger was approximately one meter plus
in diameter and just missed a climber on the pitch below.
There were three parties below. The leader just below me scrambled to
a tree on the far left, another party just beginning, and one
waiting. The party on the ground, watching me, claims they could see
the crack from the ground. All three parties bailed and went home.
Other than that, the middle line was dry and brittle and the lines
left and right were wet. The temp was minus 5.
We still haven't succeeded in eliminating all the looming daggers (ie.
last weeks report of the right side going) but they seem to be coming
down with very little persuasion. Heads up and aim for the trees.
Sharon Wood
ACMG Alpine Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.