I was at Bear Spirit climbing yesterday (Sunday, January 5), being a weekend it was quite busy. There was a couple of anchors set up for top- roping which displayed an un-safe practice.
- The first anchor, had quite a few people taking turns climbing the steep pillar. For the anchor, there was a 7mm prussic cord tied around a relatively small tree not double but single strand. The two ends of that prussic cord were connected with a overhand knot. From that prussic cord there was another cord attaching a faded old rope around a relatively small dead tree.
The prussic cord (if used as an anchor for top roping) needs to be connected with a double fisherman Knot (overhand knot can flip over), and also the prussic cord or cordellet needs to be doubled in order to be full strength ( I normally use webbing). I wouldn’t have used that dead tree with that old faded rope as an anchor. There was lots of ice; two 22 cm screws and a double length sewn webbing that equalized the anchor would have been a much safer option or of course a BIG LIVE TREE.
2. The second anchor was around a big live tree which was good, but the focal point to where the climbing rope was going thru had two none -lockers with the gates apposed.
A better focal point would be a locker with a non-locker (opposing gates), especially if you will be top-roping for an extended period of time.
There are my two- bits for a safer top roping scenario.
Play safe,
Marco Delesalle
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide