[MCR] Bourgeau Right Hand

Climbed the first 50 meters in 2 pitches yesterday, Jan 27.

Nobody up there in awhile. Large avalanche debris made for pretty easy walking on the approach. There is a single old 1/4 inch self drive bolt 5 meters right of the first real pitch. Good place for the belayer to stand as it is out of the icefall, but an inadequate anchor for a lead fall there (I'll take a couple of knifeblades next time). We backed up to a three screw anchor in the ice, some of which is detached.

Lots of detached ice in both pitches. There was a body width vein of good stuff for most of the first pitch, pulling the top was more serious because of more detachment. 2nd pitch had more ice but steeper. We didn't get to the 3rd pitch as it was just too cold yesterday. The 3rd pitch has melted out a lot in the hot spell, but looked climbable and easier than the first 2.

Overall an engaging couple of pitches, largely due to the cold. The climb is not long for this world once it gets hot again, but could be a good day for advanced climbers with the forcasted warmer temps.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard

UIAGM / IFMGA Mountain Guide

Canmore, Alberta, Canada

barryb3@telus.net

[MCR] North Selkirk's-Fairy meadows

Just back from Fairy meadows. Extensive wind effect throughout the area. The Granite and Gothic glaciers were both very wind effected. Snow depth on glaciers where we traveled was between 240 and 300cm’s.

Evidence of a cycle the week before up to size 3.

We did not observe any new avalanches or have any whumphing or cracking during the week. Things seem solid up high due to the wind effect( very hard slab).

Things are different down in the trees with some great pow skiing, although at 2100m on a protected northerly aspect I dug and got a CTE-3 down 80cm on facets, sudden planar, shear quality( pop and drop). In the same place I did an extended column test and got a CTM-14 down 80cm’s, Sudden planar as well.

It left me feeling that any really good protected snow still deserves some serious respect.

Have fun and play safe.

Cheers

Todd Craig, MG

[MCR] Rogers pass conditions

The ACMG had a ski guides training course in Rogers pass for the past week, these were our observations.
 

Weather

The week started with a warm ridge of high pressure, this brought warm temps, clear skies & freezing levels to 4000m. A temperature inversion meant that we saw temps as high as 12°at 2145m and -10° at valley bottom. These warm temps & clear skies hammered solar aspects. By mid-week the ridge started to weaken giving a cooling trend and the alpine temperature returned to a more seasonable temperature.

 Snowpack Structure
An average snow depth of 120cm was found at tree line and 250cm in the alpine. Variable surface conditions were found throughout the week. There is widespread surface hoar to 1800m (as large as size 10 cm), melt freeze crust on all solar aspects, wind effect in the alpine, low density snow on sheltered aspects. A well settled upper pack overlies the Xmas and early season facets.  These facet layers still remained our main concern throughout the week. We felt that even though the facets have become much less reactive and well bridge in some locations, that there still remains places were we could trigger this layer.

 Avalanche Activity
 Other than some sluffing out of steep solar aspects early in the week we saw no new avalanches.

 Terrain
 
Elev. range was 1100-2600m.We stayed away from large overhead slopes, steep solar aspects, shallow rocky areas and convex
features with large consequences. Good skiing was to be found on sheltered slopes ( NW - NE aspects) where the snow was still low density. Also. We
witnessed many skiers skiing quite aggressive terrain, but we were still conservative with our terrain choices due to our concern for the deep persistent week
layer and the consequences if those facets are triggered.

 Also of note 

We found that lower elevations on glaciers had a variable amount of snow. In some places there was only 35cm of snow on the ice and that most of these areas were quite rotten. We felt the snow bridging over crevasses at these places was quite week and we preceded with more caution. The wide spread surface hoar below 1900m is now also buried by a few cm's and this will be our next major layer to deal with.

 ACMG guides
 training course.

 

[MCR] Rogers pass conditions

The ACMG had a ski guides training course in Rogers pass for the past week, these were our observations.
 

Weather

The week started with a warm ridge of high pressure, this brought warm temps, clear skies & freezing levels to 4000m. A temperature inversion meant that we saw temps as high as 12°at 2145m and -10° at valley bottom. These warm temps & clear skies hammered solar aspects. By mid-week the ridge started to weaken giving a cooling trend and the alpine temperature returned to a more seasonable temperature.

 Snowpack Structure
An average snow depth of 120cm was found at tree line and 250cm in the alpine. Variable surface conditions were found throughout the week. There is widespread surface hoar to 1800m (as large as size 10 cm), melt freeze crust on all solar aspects, wind effect in the alpine, low density snow on sheltered aspects. A well settled upper pack overlies the Xmas and early season facets.  These facet layers still remained our main concern throughout the week. We felt that even though the facets have become much less reactive and well bridge in some locations, that there still remains places were we could trigger this layer.

 Avalanche Activity
 Other than some sluffing out of steep solar aspects early in the week we saw no new avalanches.

 Terrain
 
Elev. range was 1100-2600m.We stayed away from large overhead slopes, steep solar aspects, shallow rocky areas and convex
features with large consequences. Good skiing was to be found on sheltered slopes ( NW - NE aspects) where the snow was still low density. Also. We
witnessed many skiers skiing quite aggressive terrain, but we were still conservative with our terrain choices due to our concern for the deep persistent week
layer and the consequences if those facets are triggered.

 Also of note 

We found that lower elevations on glaciers had a variable amount of snow. In some places there was only 35cm of snow on the ice and that most of these areas were quite rotten. We felt the snow bridging over crevasses at these places was quite week and we preceded with more caution. The wide spread surface hoar below 1900m is now also buried by a few cm's and this will be our next major layer to deal with.

 ACMG guides
 training course.

 

[MCR] Rogers pass conditions

The ACMG had a ski guides training course in Rogers pass for the past week, these were our observations.
 

Weather

The week started with a warm ridge of high pressure, this brought warm temps, clear skies & freezing levels to 4000m. A temperature inversion meant that we saw temps as high as 12°at 2145m and -10° at valley bottom. These warm temps & clear skies hammered solar aspects. By mid-week the ridge started to weaken giving a cooling trend and the alpine temperature returned to a more seasonable temperature.

 Snowpack Structure
An average snow depth of 120cm was found at tree line and 250cm in the alpine. Variable surface conditions were found throughout the week. There is widespread surface hoar to 1800m (as large as size 10 cm), melt freeze crust on all solar aspects, wind effect in the alpine, low density snow on sheltered aspects. A well settled upper pack overlies the Xmas and early season facets.  These facet layers still remained our main concern throughout the week. We felt that even though the facets have become much less reactive and well bridge in some locations, that there still remains places were we could trigger this layer.

 Avalanche Activity
 Other than some sluffing out of steep solar aspects early in the week we saw no new avalanches.

 Terrain
 
Elev. range was 1100-2600m.We stayed away from large overhead slopes, steep solar aspects, shallow rocky areas and convex
features with large consequences. Good skiing was to be found on sheltered slopes ( NW - NE aspects) where the snow was still low density. Also. We
witnessed many skiers skiing quite aggressive terrain, but we were still conservative with our terrain choices due to our concern for the deep persistent week
layer and the consequences if those facets are triggered.

 Also of note 

We found that lower elevations on glaciers had a variable amount of snow. In some places there was only 35cm of snow on the ice and that most of these areas were quite rotten. We felt the snow bridging over crevasses at these places was quite week and we preceded with more caution. The wide spread surface hoar below 1900m is now also buried by a few cm's and this will be our next major layer to deal with.

 ACMG guides
 training course.

 

[MCR] Purcell Mountains - International Basin - Jan 18-23

Information from the International Basin area of the Purcells, Jan 18-23. Conditions were excellent. All of our observations were made above 7000'.

Clear skies, past wind effects and warm temps have destroyed the snow surface conditions on most terrain, but shaded areas at and below treeline had great snow.  Really good conditions for alpine travel though, so we took advantage of the bluebird and quick alpine travel to bag peaks and stay up high when we could.  Average snowpack depth in the area is 160-200 cm.

The avalanche hazard improved all week owing to the warm temps and a rapidly settling snowpack.  We did alot of testing and although we could find the Xmas facet layer down about 100 cm everywhere, it was hard to distinguish with the naked eye and did not produce any consistent failures. These good conditions surprised us, given all that had occured days before we went in.

Lots of old fracture lines from 1 week ago, but we did not observe a single fresh avalanche all week.  We peered down into low elevation south facing terrain and could see lots of recent activity down there from the heat.

Felt like April in January.

Grant Statham
Mountain Guide
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[MCR] Rockies ice climbing

Finished some low-hazard guiding with a couple of fit and keen Europeans
starting Saturday with:

Haffner Ck - busy, lots of good ice options including further up the Ck if
you want to escape the throngs. Good to see everyone choosing Haffner over
more exposed routes, there was lots of talk about this.

Snowline & Moonlight - again, busy. Start ridiculously early for these if
you don't like to wait. Both in good shape, bring short screws for
Snowline and be prepared to recycle the screw holes. Moonlight felt on the
hard side of WI4 even though it was hooked out. With 70m ropes we got to
the big ledge comfortably; 60m ropes are adequate. Good trail into Rehab
according to reports.

Weeping Wall Right -- seems it's filled out more since Sarah's last MCR
report last week. Good classic WI5 climbing. Watch the heat, it gets hot
early and stays for the whole day up top.

Whiteman Falls -- wow is this ever in great shape right now: exciting,
steep to overhanging and three dimensional, but with great ice and good
feet it's a steal at WI6. Remember to bring the wax kit for the approach
and forget about the skins -- with circa 1995 skinny AT skis and
Red-Silver wax we did the 5 km in 30 minutes.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Garibaldi Neve area

Went into Garibaldi Park and up Glacier Pikes/Warren Glacier during the last 4 days.  Absolutely warm, beautiful, weather as long as we where off (and up) from Garibaldi Lake. On the lake the temps stayed well below zero and a layer of valley fog seems to drift from one end of the lake to another.  The lake is its usual slush, snow, ice combo. Good enough traveling.

 

We accessed the Neve through Table Meadows and Warren Glacier.  Low angle easy travel.  There is about 1-2 meters of snow on the glacier ice. The icefall looks really thinly covered – almost like it looks in September.  I have a picture of the icefall that I will post in a few days when I get my SD card back. 

 

I tried to stay off any avalanche terrain like stuff. We did cross some smaller steep features but only very carefully. We had no settlements and no reaction to ski cutting.  Intuitively, at first look, things seem to be stabilizing. The pack is definitely settling – you can even see the many contour of features below the surface, and lots of sluffs have run on S aspects. But on careful viewing I could see faint and now older and filled in fracture lines everywhere. Analytically it is obvious that the Persistent Weak Layer (Dec 6) is still there and barely bridged by a variably thick slab at Tree Line and in the Alpine. It is just not trustable. I felt like I was in a tropical version of the Rockies... Below Tree Line is melting fast to the point of trending to being below avalanche threshold.  

 

S aspects that are steep have lots of sun effect (wet snow and crusts), but N aspects are cool and drying out -really nice snow even well down in Tree Line.         

 

I have been working between Vancouver and Duffey Lk, out pretty much every day since before the holidays and got to say the mountains are desolate. There are so few people out there. It is like 25 years ago.  Barely an old track around.... even in the super popular spots.

 

Dave Sarkany

Ski Guide

[MCR] Whistler Backcountry & Blackcomb Nearcountry....

Very warm in the hills today.....
 
Hi, Everyone.
 
After skiing and looking at the snowpack the past couple of days I have a few observations to pass along about treeline locations:
 
That sugary snow (the facets) was still very evident in the snowpack in both the Spearhead and Fitzsimmons Ranges at treeline elevations. I found the facet layer to be buried at approximately the same depth in both north and east-facing gladed or open terrain (around treeline) in both ranges. The depth of the layer was approximately 100cm below the surface and the snow above the layer continues to be generally quite stiff. This stiff and deep slab of snow above the facets is one of our concerns as it makes the consequence of triggering a slope much greater.
 
I feel that the layer, generally, is going to appear and react a little differently depending upon where you are looking, and my confidence/trust, overall, in this layer is still on the low side. May I suggest looking for lower-angle north-facing treeline and below treeline terrain without exposure to steeper-rocky inclines en route nor any avalanche slopes that may be positioned above you, as the choice for better skiing/travel.
 
Steep, rocky, and shallow places in the alpine, on all aspects, should still be avoided ~ especially so with all the warming that's occuring. Please take care to avoid the same terrain features at treeline, too.....
 
Enjoy the sunshine.....
 
Best regards,
Dale Marcoux
Assistant Ski Guide
ACMG Member
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

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[MCR] Sekirks: Valkyr Range

Another week in the Valkyr Range, teaching an avalanche course.

As with all other areas there was an extensive avalanche cycle here in early January. Many lee slopes avalanched, especially east aspects. Avalanches were generally size 2 - 3, with some timber down. The most recent avalanche we've noted occurred on Jan 12.

Snowpack ranges from 140 cm at lower elevations to 240 cm in some alpine areas. Generally 200 cm at treeline. Coverage seems better than average for this time of year as the upper and mid pack is very well settled and carries well.

The December facets on the ground are about 70 cm thick and are 1F to 4F resistance. The midpack slab overlying them is 50-100cm thick and 1F to P resistance. We have had consistent moderate to hard compression test results on this layer, with a sudden collapse fracture character.

Temperatures have been incredibly warm, a maximum of +7 today, with a minimum of +2 last night. It doesn't look like it is going to freeze tonight either. Also incredibly, it doesn't seem like the warm temps have affected stability overly as test scores remain the same and no new avalanches have been noted. We'll see how long that lasts.

That said, we have little confidence in the snowpack and are sticking to small, supported terrain features to 35 degrees, low angle terrain and avoiding overhead hazard (especially cornices) and terrain traps. Experience has taught us that a persistent instability of this type is untrustworthy and has the potential to do unpredictable things. If something does go haywire it is going to be big and ugly. I don't want to get involved in anything like the avalanche that ran here recently, which tore up 100 year old trees by the roots.

We have found good, fast, low ski-pen turns on shaded aspects and low angled terrain elsewhere.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

[MCR] weeping wall left side

Early start on the left hand side weeping wall today. The ice was much harder and more brittle than 3 days ago when I was on the right hand side. The cold night must have refrozen things on the outside. We could still hear water however running behind it for the first pitch and after the second pitch could see big holes above us that indicated we were climbing on a large shell. I could also feel the swings from my seconds, in the ice I was standing on at the second belay.
As I started up the third pitch I tried not to swing too hard, but with the freshly frozen skin, I had to. One swing responded in what felt like a snow slope settling, except we were ice climbing, a large whoomphing crack sound. I was quickly reminded of Sharon's MCR and although I couldn't see any fracturing other than the usual from my tools, it felt like these changing temperatures were making this "shell" a little insecure.
It seemed to stay below zero in the shade out there today, but I'm sure it was warmer in the sun. Looking back at it in the daylight, the top of the third pitch looks very rock exposed and only has a couple of ways up it. The right hand side looked more inviting.

Sarah Hueniken
ACMG Alpine Guide

----- Original Message ----
From: Public Mountain Conditions Report <mcr@informalex.org>
To: mcr@informalex.org
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 6:13:52 PM
Subject: [MCR] Louise Falls

Spooky experience on Louise Falls today. We were first up on the pillar and at 3/4's height when it cracked horizontally just below my tools. It gave a mighty crack, settled a little and the fracture line ripped across in both directions triggering a dagger 15 meters to my left at the same level. The dagger was approximately one meter plus in diameter and just missed a climber on the pitch below.

There were three parties below. The leader just below me scrambled to a tree on the far left, another party just beginning, and one waiting. The party on the ground, watching me, claims they could see the crack from the ground. All three parties bailed and went home.

Other than that, the middle line was dry and brittle and the lines left and right were wet. The temp was minus 5.

We still haven't succeeded in eliminating all the looming daggers (ie. last weeks report of the right side going) but they seem to be coming down with very little persuasion. Heads up and aim for the trees.

Sharon Wood
ACMG Alpine Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Whirldwind and Whistler backcountry

Out for a quick tour to attempt Whirlwind today. The snow has stayed surprisingly dry considering the past few days temps, although anything facing solar (SE-SW) had a crust.

We had quite a few large settlements on our way over Cowboy ridge and the snow here was only 1 m deep near the ridge tops. If you got anywhere near a rock or small tree you would sink down into the still rotten lower snowpack.

There was a nice big fracture line across most of the south face of Fissile mountain. It looked like it probably released a few days ago when the temps first got above freezing. The crown (top of the slide) was around 100+ m wide and 25-150cm's thick, it ran for 200m. A nice 2.5 or 3.0. There were a few other solar related slabs off other parts of the mountain too.

When we got to the business slope on Whirlwind, no one quite had the guts to suggest continuing any further. It seem a bit much with the warm temps, fairly fresh avalanches and the settlements that we had on the way out there.  

Everyone lately has been talking about the weaknesses in the snowpack "settling out" or "rounding". I would say this is only part of the story.

The other part would be the fact that we have just come out of one of the worst avalanche cycles in a long time. The weak layer is quite deep now and it is getting "bridged" by a more solid upper snowpack....a slab! The deep instability is still there! People are somewhat right in saying that it is rounding "a bit", but we need bonding, not just a few days of rounding.  You could probably get away with a bit more now however, "IF" you find the shallow or weak spot, you will trigger a slide that would be very consequential!

The snowpack we have here on the coast this year is more typical of the Rockies or Interior in bad years. These week Facet layers (think sugar snow) don't bond nearly as quick as we are used to. They also are not nearly as predictable.

 

Personally until temperatures cool off and snowpack really gets some time to bond,  I'm still sticking to very simple terrain with no overhead hazards. 

  

 

Craig McGee, ACMG Mountain guide

craigskibum@yahoo.com

[MCR] Louise Falls

Spooky experience on Louise Falls today. We were first up on the
pillar and at 3/4's height when it cracked horizontally just below my
tools. It gave a mighty crack, settled a little and the fracture line
ripped across in both directions triggering a dagger 15 meters to my
left at the same level. The dagger was approximately one meter plus
in diameter and just missed a climber on the pitch below.

There were three parties below. The leader just below me scrambled to
a tree on the far left, another party just beginning, and one
waiting. The party on the ground, watching me, claims they could see
the crack from the ground. All three parties bailed and went home.

Other than that, the middle line was dry and brittle and the lines
left and right were wet. The temp was minus 5.

We still haven't succeeded in eliminating all the looming daggers (ie.
last weeks report of the right side going) but they seem to be coming
down with very little persuasion. Heads up and aim for the trees.

Sharon Wood
ACMG Alpine Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Snowline

Climbed Snowline today. The climb had frozen itself a new skin in the last wee while and was pretty much a virgin surface. 12 cm screws in the first 15 meters then medium length ones. Below freezing temps until 2 pm when we left.

Happy trails

Barry Blanchard

UIAGM / IFMGA Mountain Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

[MCR] South Coast, west of Squamish

Finally some clear weather has arrived on the coast!

 

This morning we took a flight from Squamish over the peaks to the west to survey some avalanche paths in the Clowhom valley, and do some digging. In addition we flew over the Tantalus Range on the way home. With the exception of the tenacious valley fog draped over Vancouver and some of the inlets, we found only high thin could, with limitless visibility. Felt like spring at ridge top elevations with highs of 12 C. Weird.

 

Avalanche results from the previous 2 weeks of weather events were variable, and we saw everything from large events running full path, to huge bowls that had cracked (but not run), to big faces that appeared to be fully intact, and still ready to rumble. Suspect the bigger releases ran on the early December crust/facets, but some shallower releases may have released on the Jan 7 layer or during the storms. Of note was cornices appeared to be much smaller than normal for this time of year.

 

We managed to do one full snow profile at 1400m on a SW aspect,  in which we observed a thin surface meltfreeze crust sitting above a well settled 140cm snowpack that was mostly moist (not wet, but not dry either). Shear test results were in the top 60 cm, and were mostly irregular and not alarming at this lower elevation. In addition we stopped for a quick probe and surface assessment on a SE slope at 1700m (subtle lee feature). There was twice the amount of snow here (280 cm), and the snow underneath the crust will still quite dry. The early Dec layer was easily identified with the probe as a weak feeling layer, about 240 cm below the surface.

 

In discussions with 2 other avalanche professionals I was working with today, we all felt that the snowpack stability has improved, but we are still a way off from letting our guard down completely, especially with these mid-day high temperatures.

 

Not that we did any skiing, but if you were so inclined…most exposed locations showed evidence of being seriously wind effected, and the surface crust forming with these warm temps would be a force for any knee to be reckoned with. That said, I suspect there could be some reasonable turns to be had on north treeline glade features. But I think I am going to dig out my climbing gear and hit the south facing bluffs in Squamish instead…

 

Brian Gould

Mountain Guide

bgould@avalancheservices.ca

 

PS Haberl Hut picture

 

[MCR] Weeping Wall

Climbed Weeping Wall Right Hand yesterday and it felt like April -
verrry warm and wet. Figured it was about plus 4 degrees. It was in
good shape other than the second pitch feeling a little hollow and the
water running down our sleeves and through our nether regions.

The Left and Center lines looked to be about the same. Water can be
seen running between the wall and the ice in places.

Got a good whumph on the tracked out slope below the right side.
Might want to be wary of tromping across ramps and ledges even if
they've had lots of traffic.

Saw a party on Whimper Wall, left side. It looks better - dryer.
There are two lines, the left looking fat and blue and the right,
thinner but all there.

Sharon Wood
ACMG Alpine Guide

> Climbed Weeping Wall Right Hand yesterday and it felt like April -
> verrry warm and wet. Figured it was about plus 4ish. It was in
> good shape, other than the second pitch feeling a little hollow, and
> water running down our arms and through our nether regions.
>
> The Left and Center lines looked to be about the same. Water can be
> seen running between the wall and the ice in places.
>> Climbed Weeping Wall Right Hand today and it felt like April -
>> verrry warm and wet. We figured it was about plus 4ish. It was
>> in good shape, other than the second pitch feeling a little hollow,
>> and water running down our arms through our nether regions.
>>
>> The Left and Center lines looked to be about the same. Water can
>> be seen running between the wall and the ice in places.
>>
>> Whimper Wall looked better - dryer. There are two lines, the left
>> looking fat and blue and the right thinner but all there.
>
> Whimper Wall looked better - dryer. There are two lines, the left
> looking fat and blue and the right thinner but all there.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Blackcomb Mountain Nearcountry today.

I hope this finds Everyone having a safe mid-January.
 
Today offered another wonderful opportunity to have a look at conditions and any changes in the mountains. The skies were mostly clear so I spent the day on safe terrain while travelling to different aspects in order to have a look.
 
The most noteworthy observations were some old avalanches (only 2 - 4 days ago, approximately) that had run both naturally and/or with explosive charges and had released deeply on that sugary snow (facets) above the early-December crust. Some of the depths were 1.2m or more! Many of the old avalanches in the alpine regions had one or more of the following features associated with them:
 
- rocky
- steep
- shallow spots as trigger points
 
The most interesting feature associated with much of the avalanche activity of late is that they've been occuring on ALL aspects.
 
The snowpack above the weak facets has become quite dense and this makes for more destructive avalanches should the slope be triggered.
 
This was the first day of a forecasted series of progressively warmer days ahead. It was plus 7.5 degrees Celsius at treeline elevations this afternoon!! Such a trend is very stressful to the snowpack and so the avalanche hazard will climb during these warming periods. Please use extra caution.
 
I also wanted to make note of something that is really important. Avalanche research has evolved to include how we humans make decisons out there in the backcountry and some interesting insights have been uncovered. There are many ways in which we choose to make a decision and very often we do so because of certain biases. One of these biases, as it relates to avalanche safety, is the idea that if we see a particular slope has been skied that it must then be okay to go there ourselves....despite the fact that the slope is one we may suspect or may not suspect is hazardous. My point is: please don't find yourself being lead into the kinds of slopes with the above noted terrain features that we've been discussing here simply because there are a set of someone else's ski or snowmobile tracks there! Like we've discussed, the key to triggering a very destructive avalanche right now is finding that sweet spot. And the sweet spots are there....and many slopes currently continue to have the potential for big releases.
 
Please continue to make safe travel choices by choosing terrain without exposure to avalanches.....
 
Enjoy the mountains safely,
Dale Marcoux
Assistant Ski Guide
ACMG Member

---

[MCR] Lesser Flute shoulder....

I hope this finds Everyone keeping well.....
 
I went up into the hills today to make some observations because the clouds have begun to clear from the mountains and I wanted to know what has changed. This is what I noted:
 
The debris from the older natural slab avalanches, that had run on the northwest side of Oboe (facing Whistler Mountain), was still evident. These avalanches were large and released on steep, rocky, and cross-loaded terrain at treeline elevation. It is still possible to trigger avalanches in this kind of terrain or on these types of features. Cross-loaded terrain means that the winds sweep across the face of the slope instead of down the slope. The nature of the snowcover on terrain like this is much more difficult to predict because there are areas where the snowcover is deeper and then areas where it is much shallower. The problem is that these differences are not often perceptible and since we're currently dealing with a hazard that has been, in addition to other types of terrain, producing large avalanches from shallow places, then we have to be very cautious. Essentially, shallower places make it easier to trigger that weaker layer that's living just above the early-December crust!
 
So, I went out today to measure if anything had changed with this weak layer of sugary snow (called facets) that sits on the early-December crust which is buried deeply (or not so deeply- depending upon the terrain!) in the snow. This faceted snow is generally much slower to gain strength....... and that was evident again today; the layer continues to show that, if it were triggered in the wrong terrain, that there is a greater likelihood of widespread slope failure. Makes you very humble when you consider that there is a lot (up to 160cm in treeline places) of dense snow sitting on top of that layer.
 
The forecast tells us that our on-mountain temperatures will warm significantly over the next few days. Expect the avalanche hazard to rise along with the temperatures.
 
And although there haven't been as many alpine observations being noted recently on the South Coast MCR, please don't forget that this instability in the snowpack is not limited to just treeline locations.... it lives in the alpine snowpack, too. Rocky, steep, and large alpine slopes are incredibly suspect.
 
Terrain with no exposure to avalanches continues to be a prudent decision, especially with the forecasted warming ahead.....
 
Wishing Everyone a safe and pleasant mid-January,
Dale Marcoux
Assistant Ski Guide
ACMG Member
 
 
 
 
 
 

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[MCR] Bow Summit and K Country.

Hi,

Just finished an Avalanche Skills Training 2 course based out of Canmore.

Our mantra for this 3 day course was "proceed with extreme caution" and "stay out of any avalanche terrain."

On our last day in K Country, our groups experienced extensive collapsing of the snow-pack (whumphing), cracking on convex features and remote triggering of a small cornice from 20m away - all very clear indicators of a continuing highly unstable snow-pack.

These unstable conditions are not going to improve in a hurry - "being patient" would be another apt mantra for this winter.

Be safe out there.

Steve Blagbrough.
Yamnuska Guide.

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[MCR] Blaebary River-West side of the Rockies

I skied out of Mistaya Lodge today via Wildcat Ck and snowmobiled out the Blaebary river. A couple of big avalanches had recently run to the valley floor. I found this suprisng as the light was reasonable and I saw a LOT of big avalanche paths that looked very white and had not yet run.

 

I am taking an educated guess that they just need a bit more load. If the west side of the rockies gets another decent storm I wouldn't want to moving slowly through those valleys. 

 

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Marriot Basin, Duffey Lk Area

I spent the weekend in Marriot Basin.  Not much snow there for this time of year. The trail is definitely skiable, but coming down through the forest is a bit rough at the lower elevations with logs and other debris feelable under the skis.  Higher up the meadows still have alder standing. First meadow has about 1m of snow. 

 

At the cabins elevation (1800m East Aspect) had a look into the snow.  About 1.2m of snow depth. A laminate of 4f facets and decomposing ice crusts makes up the bottom 20-30cm. Above is a 1m slab of P-F density snow. Got a Moderate Compression Test (CTM) on the Facets, and an Easy Compression Test (CTE) in the new snow -30 cm down from the surface. Both fractured nice and clean (SP).The usual story....    A bit wind effected on the surface at this and higher elevations. Air temperatures where around -3.

 

The only recent (with the last few days) avalanche activity we saw in the upper valley was the slope above the cabin.  A large slab probably released last storm in steep rock terrain. Crown was deep, to the Dec 6 crust. Also, debris was visible under the S aspects above the 1^st lake, but no crown line where visible.

 

Traveled in ways to avoid much exposure to even the bottoms of slide paths, basically very conservatively. Skiing quality was good at Tree Line out of wind effect.

 

As I was skiing out to the car I started to think things are stabilizing a bit, BUT as we came out of the trees onto the logging road there was the result of a new Class 3 that had pulled out from the East aspect slopes above. Must have happened after the previous nights snow – there was no new snow on the debris or on the forest foliage that it had shaken. Crow ran 450m across the slope releasing 3 separate start zones at elevations from 1800-2000m. Crowns depth was 1-3m. This slide ran full path to below the road. What I found spooky was it only snowed 2-3 cm, with light winds the night this slide released. The slope must have been just primed to go.

 

Dave Sarkany

Ski Guide

[MCR] Selkirk Mtns. - Corbin Pass - Jan.11/09

I was skiing in the Corbin Pass (west of Glacier Park) area today with some guests.

 

Weather was mild (-1.0 at the parking lot in the am) with some light snow showers throughout the day with gusty westerly winds that caused numerous tree bomb events (clumps of snow falling off the trees) below treeline and I am sure some wind slabs in the exposed treeline and Alpine terrain.

 

There was 15-25 cms new snow over the last 48hrs. and ski penetration was close to 45 cms. (off the old up track)  - there was an easy shear down 10cms. in the storm snow, though it didn’t pose a problem for us during our descents – the Dec.26^th interface (buried below 60-100 cms. storm snow) is quite variable and so we simply limited our terrain to below the road and skied moderate angled small treed slopes to manage the uncertainty in the snowpack.

 

Ski quality was good and will improve on lower angled terrain as the storm snow settles out over the next few days. Lower alders still a bit nasty – especially if you don’t know the best way past them. Road was not ploughed recently and when it is, it only goes to the first switchback (which is still much appreciated – 4 wheel drive mandatory).

 

I would guess the deeper instabilities (Dec. 26^th and Nov.21) are not going anywhere fast.

 

Cheers,

 

Scott Davis

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Whistler Backcountry

Was in the area of Oboe/Singing Pass today with clients.  The alpine has seen considerable wind effect in the last 36 hours.  20 cms of 1 finger resistance over lies about 1m of consolidated settled slab. There seems to be an even more prominent resistance change between the mid pack slab and Facet/crust interface.

Skied low angle alpine terrain to access the TL/BLT for better ski quality.  What's a little concerning to me is the steep wooded clearings Below tree line. There seems to be still a high concentration of sugar underlying the slab/storm snow.  Poking around today in this type of terrain was a little alarming with the potential of triggering this type of terrain were lesser experienced ski tourers might think they are safe.  Yes, these pockets might only go to size 1 or 1.5 but the real danger is the potential for severe trauma inflicted by the old growth.  Something to think about as some operations are starting to trend BTL stability towards good!

Jon Simms

Asg

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[MCR] Avalanche involvement at Mistaya, Rockies

Watched a Size 2 Skier accidental on January 10th, 1500hrs, 2100m East aspect, the Abyss, approx. 37 degrees. Simple planar slope, no trees except a couple of small ones at the fracture line. Slope approximately 70m high.

Fracture line 40m wide, 50-80cms deep ran 70m.  Failure plane was December 27th facets. Very soft slab. Large whumph, then a long wait while the slope fractured and then a very long wait till it started to glide.

4th skier on slope had fallen at what turned out to be a small rock feature. They were carried to the toe of the deposit and buried with one hand out and a decent airspace. Second involement was carried down at the fracture line and left mostly above the surface. No injuries.

Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

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[MCR] Coast Mountains, North Shore, Mt Seymour

Went for a very short tour up the snowshoe trails on Mt Seymour today with an avalanche course. It is obvious they have been getting a lot of snow this season, with the snowpack reported as 280cm at the parking lot and 329cm at the summit (deeper than my probe). We dug a couple of quick pits in the trees and found 50cm storm snow fallen since yesterday overlying a 15cm thick crust caused by rain earlier in the week. We found a lower density layer 2cm thick overlying the crust producing moderate shears above this weaker layer, so it will be one to watch carefully over the next few days, particularly with the forecast warming trend and rain. Expect soft slab avalanches in steep terrain. The North Shore avalanche bulletin raised the danger rating to "High" this morning after heavier than expected snowfalls.

Alex Geary
Assistant Ski Guide

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[MCR] Lake Louise avalanches

Another gentle cross country ski trip, this time to the Plain of Six Glaciers, avoiding avalanche terrain except for extreme runouts, which wasn't quite enough today.

Of course lots of recent activity, of note:

- The slope beneath the 5.10 Amphitheatre crag at Back of the Lake climbing area ran size 1.5, almost hit the cross country ski trail. I always wondered when I would see that run. This of course makes me wonder about the slope below Louise Falls, but it seems that there are enough trails beat into that to tack it in place and keep it from getting triggered by the ice climbing parties and strollers wandering up it today.

- Up valley about 75% of terrain steep enough to slide had run anywhere from 0-72 hrs previously. This included size 1's on small moraine features to size 3's off the big paths. At one point there were debris piles from either side that were only about 20 m apart. No deep deposits though, most large activity was in the size 2.5 range.

- The feeder gully lookers right of Surprise Pass has slid and it took the lower half of  of the Surprise Pass ski run out. Size 2.5. The upper part of the run is still there, but you won't find me skiing that anytime soon.

- At about 3 pm we saw a size 3-3.5 come off the E Face of Lefroy, probably icefall triggered but took a big snow slab out on the slopes below. That thing rocketed down!

- Coming back at the end of the day a size 2.5 came off the cliffs of Fairview and hit Lake Louise. It dusted the trail on the far side of the lake and leaves and branches were strewn all the way across the lake as well. A nice layer of dust and vegetation on our track from the morning, which was near the middle of the lake. Hmm.

Whumpfs all the way up the valley and again coming down.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Jasper/Nordegg ice conditions

Saturday, January 10, 2009 - Jasper/Nordegg ice conditions, Canadian Rockies

Just spent the past five days instructing in the Jasper and Nordegg area with a Thompson Rivers University ice climbing course.

Roads: The Icefields Parkway is now open north to Jasper but in poor winter driving conditions. The road from Saskatchewan River Crossing to Lake Louise is also in poor condition with lots of ruts and slippery sections.

Routes: We steered clear of any routes with avi hazard given the parks bulletin and the overall weak condition of this year's snowpack. We climbed Swartz's Falls, Maligne Canyon (The Queen and The Last Wall), Tangle Falls, Two O'Clock Falls and Cline River Gallery. All areas were in normal condition but ice in general is running with water making it hard to keep ropes dry. As of Thursday (Jan 8), the canyon beyond Pure Energy in Cline River Gallery was frozen offering access to the Splashdown routes, which are usually tricky to access. This can change rapidly so be cautious of thin ice and open pools.

Cascade Falls: On the drive home today, I was shocked to see a party on Cascade Waterfall in Banff. Given the Banff National Park avalanche bulletin of HIGH hazard at all elevations, recently observed natural size 3.5 avalanches on Cascade Mountain (yesterday!) and temperatures above zero degrees Celsius, this is a VERY poor route choice. This is not the time to be climbing under ANY avi terrain. Enough from the soap box; please pay safe and choose routes accordingly.

Sean Isaac

Assistant Alpine Guide

[MCR] Kicking Horse Slackcountry.

In the past week I have been traveling in and out of bounds around
KHMR as well as Rogers Pass. As usual the storms don't usually drop
as much in the Dogtooth region, however, they have been rather
fruitful this past week.
The Kickinghorse slackcountry has seen relatively minimal traffic to
the norm. Backcountry skiers and Avy crews in bounds have been
triggering avalanches at a regular rate. With even the odd burial
and significant surprise. The past couple of days the winds and
warmer temps have stiffened up the alpine and treeline zones
considerable along with strong lee loading.
Today below treeline on a windward SW slope at aprox 2200m today,
large whumps were felt and heard at a regular occurrence. The layer
the seemed to be causing this drop in the snowpack was aprox 70cm
down. Upon testing the layers, down 38cm Compression test Moderate
13, resistant planner, which was the most recent storm snow. And
down 70cm Compression test Moderate 15, sudden collapse well into the
facets from December.
Basically, the crew of very experienced ski mountaineers and guides
that I was skiing with was seriously concerned that we were not going
to make the Bad Sweater Party tonight if we skied anything steeper
than about 25 degrees.
There are very serious issues in the snowpack right now everywhere in
the Interior which will take some time to heal, however these
persistent week layers will more than likely be haunting us for the
rest of the winter. It would seem that is the winter to take it easy
and think very hard about the more committing lines.
Be smart and live to ski another winter.

Rich Marshall
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] (no subject)

Please excuse the technical difficulty.......

To complement recent posts, and the CAA Bulletin I would like to offer the following observations/ information about the current snowpack and avalanche hazard in the central Selkirk Mountains. These observations are a combination of mine, other guides, and neighboring commercial operations and guides working in the area. The general area these observations are gathered from is from the West Glacier Park boundry, to the Columbia Valley (Revelstoke), and from the Akokolex river in the South, to Carnes Creek in the North.
The current snowpack is exhibiting the dangerous combination of instability (high liklihood of triggering), and large destructive potential (Consequence). We have been witnessing an ongoing natural and explosive triggered avalanche cycle for the past several days, which we expect to continue through the weekend. The number of large, destructive and climax avalanches we have observed over the last 48 hours has been humbling to say the least. Several of these avalanches are in the Class 4 size, and are overrunning known historical runouts. Many have destroyed mature timber to the sides and below avalanche tracks and runnout zones. The fact that the local highways have been closed off and on since Wednesday due to avalanche hazard and control are further evidence of the problem
.
The avalanche activity has been widespread on all aspects and elevations, from high alpine faces, to below tree line glades. Most of the slabs are failing on the Christmas facet interface which is buried under between 80 and 150cm of recent storm snow. The overlying slab is very cohesive now, and overlies this weaker, looser layer of sugary crystals; hence the large propogations. Some of the lower elevation activity seems to be failing even deeper into the snowpack on the late november and early december crust interfaces and scrubbing to ground in some spots.

This afternoon the latest storm moved in with increasing winds and a snowfall warning for the next 24-36 hours in the region. Expect the avalanche activity to continue through the weekend.

Conservative terrain use or avoidance are critical to remaining safe in the mountains this weekend. Avoid exposure to any overhead hazards and be carefull even in heavy timber near runouts and fans. Skier triggering could also be possible in terrain over 30 degrees.

Be carefull if you are out in the mountains this weeked!!

Jeff Honig
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Selkirks Snowpack/ Hazard

To complement recent posts, and the CAA Bulletin I would like to offer the following observations/ information about the current snowpack and avalanche hazard in the central Selkirk Mountains. These observations are a combination of mine, other guides, and neighboring operations and guides working in the area. The general area these observations are gathered from is from the West Glacier Park boundry, to the Columbia Valley (Revelstoke), and from the Akokolex river in the South to Carnes Creek in the North.

[MCR] Kananaskis Beacon Basin

The Beacon Basin training site in Kananaskis Country is set up and is good to go. 

 

It is located in the same place that it has been the past few years near Burstall Pass Trailhead 200m down the trail at the end of the cut block.  There are 8 transceivers at the site all covered with plywood targets.  There are spare batteries with the training unit so if you need to replace the batteries please do so but email Avalanche.Safety@gov.ab.ca so we know to get more spares to the site.

 

Have a safe Winter!

 

Mike Koppang ASG

Kananaskis Country Public Safety Program  

 

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[MCR] Duffey Lk Area

 

 

d sarkany and i decided to practice our grovelling for a few hours this PM and headed up the NE end of the ridge that separates cayoosh basin from cayoosh pass. most of the grovelling occurred between 1500 and 1850m where the height of snow is still a little thin to provide easy travel through the small bluffs and understorey on these steep forested slopes.

at the pass 1280m there is 20cms of moist storm snow with a 1cm layer of wet grains 8cms down. by approx 1500m the snow was dry and the coverage in the forest is navigable but marginally skiable. from 1650m up to our high point at 1850m there is a very reactive shear on well preserved 4-5mm stellars 40cms deep. we dug a very quick pit at 1850m on a NE aspect and this layer stood out like a prominent surface hoar layer with compression tests at the very low end of moderate and sudden planar shears. there was also an easy shear in the storm snow 15cms down and the 1-2mm facets (here found only below the december 6 crust) collapsed in the moderate range. the snow depth at this location was an average of 120cms. air temp was -3. ski penetration was 25cms on the lower angled portions of the skin track and the skiing was good down to approximately 1600m wherever you could milk a few turns between the trees and in small boulder fields.

from about 1300hrs to 1430 hrs there were broken skies but by the time we were back at the car the skies were obscured and it was snowing 2-3 cms per hour. on the drive down the snow turned to rain at about 750m elevation and by the time we reached pemberton there was significant clearing in the skies to the N and E.

Mike Wilson
asg

 

[MCR] K Country avalanches

Out for a stroll to Chester Lake today in K Country. Only about a meter on the ground there, almost half of that is recent storm snow with about 20 cm having fallen in the past 24 hours. Periods of snow, falling at a rate of up to 2 cm per hour at times. 

Numerous large avalanches to size 3 coming off the cliffs above the lake, one dusted the trees on the far side of the lake. We stayed out of avalanche terrain altogether today.

There was a deep slab out in a steep glade in the trees near the lake as well. This was in steep terrain and only about the bottom quarter of the glade slid. I would guess it to be a size 2 and it would have piled up deeply in the trees at the bottom.

In addition, there were reports of a widespread avalanche cycle around Lake Louise today, all elevations and aspects, including below treeline features. Banff Park rated danger as Extreme on Thursday.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Bow Valley Ice: Jan 2-6

The ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide Ice training spent the last 6 days climbing in the Bow Valley.  We managed to find quite a bit to do despite the cold temps and high avalanche hazard.

A couple of general observations
-We noticed were a lot of V-threads that were already showing signs of wear.  We removed/replaced a few but with much of the climbing traffic being directed to a few “safer” routes these days it might be wise to look at them with a slightly more critical eye than usual.

-Due to the rotten nature of this years snowpack, there seems to be an increased risk from loose snow avalanches (sluffing) in places you might not expect it.  We didn’t see any big enough to bury a person but certainly big enough to knock you off the ice.

Coire Dubh Integrale
The route is in good shape but we experienced very high winds and intense spindrift to the point we wished we had goggles.  There are hard slabs in the gullies between pitches which we were often avoiding by staying on the rock and scree to the side.  Instead of climbing the 5.6 corner on the right, we climbed a nice ~5.5 pitch about 20m left of the corner that is above the centre of the bowl.  It starts up a short gully then steps right onto the rock at a bolt and follows positive holds to the big ledge.

Rogan’s Gully
We climbed it on a cold day after hearing that it had recently avalanched.  With the new snow, warm temps and strong winds, I would probably give this one a miss for now.

Louise Falls
Route is in good “hooked out” shape and as reported last week, most of the big daggers have fallen off.  

Guinness Gully
Route is in good shape with the first pitch being much fatter than usual and most pitches being very “hooked out”.

Grotto, His, Hers, Mental Jewelry and Sketch and Sniff
Grotto is really wet and His and Hers are both climbable but thinner than usual.  Mental Jewelry is in but a little harder than usual as you have to do a few extra rock moves to get on the ice and Sketch and Sniff is a good TR right now but would be a bold lead as the ice is too thin for screws after the fourth bolt.

Today, Lilla Molnar and Sarah Heuniken skied in and climbed Whiteman Falls in K-Country.  The route is in really good WI5+shape with the first pitch being technical and the second pitch steep on hard ice. It was snowing lightly all day, and there was up to 5cm new snow when they left. Beware the side gullies along the approach pitches as they were starting to sluff into the canyon.  Redman Soars looked fat.   

--
Marc Piché
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Rogers Pass

Rogers Pass was closed today for Avalanche Control, both in Glacier Park
and in the Province to the West. Most explosive controlled avalanches were
in the size 3-3.5 range, with one very notable size 4.

Skiers in the backcountry around Grizzly Shoulder reported that trail
breaking was up to 40 cm - and higher on the uphill side of the track.
They were able to trigger several size 1 soft slab avalanches in the trees,
which had surprisingly wide propagation. These slides were running very
fast, and gained lots of volume in a short space. The skiers opted to
retreat early in the afternoon, as the wind picked up, making skiing even
spookier. No one ventured any further up valley than Grizzly Shoulder
itself - a wise choice.

Like everywhere else, the Rogers Pass snowpack has a very weak facetted
base, and now has a very heavy layer of storm snow on top. Tomorrow, it is
expected to get warm, with freezing levels rising to 1500 meters. It is
important to remember that Rogers Pass rarely has such a weak, facetted
base - we even have some depth hoar in places! With the warm heavy slab
of storm snow resting on this, it is likely that backcountry users will be
able to trigger avalanches very easily.

With all the new snow, I expect the coming weekend to be quite busy.
Things may settle out a bit by then, but the instability in the snowpack is
here for a long time, and very careful terrain choice will be critical for
safe travel.

Sylvia Forest
Specialist, Mountain Safety Programs, MRG
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Kcountry Black Prince

Went for a look around Black Prince today and found no good news. Snowing 2 cms an hour all day and there was about 15cms of new snow by 3pm. The new snow sits on a really weak base to about 1/2 way up the classic skiing shoulder at Balck Prince. Above this elevation it sits on a settled 20cm slab above the 40 cms of facets. It is nasty skiing. Not recommended at all. 

 

Around 1pm the temperature rose to 0 celsius and the stability decreased rapidly. Lots of BIG settlements and propogations of at least 20m's where there was none on the way up. It is the first time out of many days there that I have felt very uncomfortable on that gentle, almost non-avalanche terrain.

 

Lots of big naturals running out of the bowls and cliffs in that neighbourhood. The poor skiing and easy to trigger instability is going to hang around that nieghbourhood for at least a few days and that is being REALLY optomistic.

 

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Ice fields parkway, Whimper Wall and Balfour Wall.

Climbed the Whimper Wall (just south of the Weeping Wall)tuesday. We plowed a mighty trench through the facets and the windslabs to get to the base of the Whimper wall from the Weeping Wall. It did allow us to stay high on the face and not have to walk up onto any snowslabs in the flat light. On the descent in better light we walked staright down to the road. Nasty wind affected snowpack in that area. We walked in either knee deep sugar with our feet on the ground or thundered through the scary windslab with our feet almost on the ground. I kept one hand on the rock almost the whole way and really liked that.

 

Ice was really good on the left hand lines. Some running water but it could be avoided.  Decent fixed threads as of today at the very top of the left hand lines. 60m to a station at the top left of the right hand(shorter) line. 45m to snow but we rapped across the big hard wind/spindrift slab at the base till we were below an old fracture line.

Whimper wall has almost no hanging daggers or crowds. The weeping wall has some daggers threatening some lines and crowds are almost as common. Snivelling gully was sounding very wet and the daggers that threaten the route are growing.

 

Balfour wall a few days ago. Good ice and little snow.  

 

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide  

[MCR] Selkirk Mountains - Revelstoke snowfall

I apologize that these are not exactly mountaintop type observations – but I feel they are relevant.

 

I have just returned home to Revelstoke and met some challenging snowy driving up, the usually dry, Okanogan valley on my way. In Revelstoke (which sits at an elevation of @ 1450ft. 440m.) there was @ 40cms. of snow on my driveway (over the last 2 days) and it is still snowing at more than 2 cms/hr. (looks like another 15cms since I shoveled).

 

All that is to say that obviously this is a major system and if it is doing this in town I can’t imagine what is going on up high. Tomorrow things are supposed to start to warm up – by the afternoon – personally I can’t imagine a better recipe for a major avalanche cycle – looking like a good day to hit the ski hill for me!

 

Scott Davis

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

 

[MCR] Blackcomb NearCountry today....

_______________________________________________
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Hello, Everyone.
 
Turned the legs over today on a short walk to an upper treeline location, in the near-country of Blackomb Mountain, for a look at the snowcover. 
 
It was certainly warmer today than it has been of late. Broken skies turned overcast by midday with light winds from the west at treeline elevations.
 
Rolling low-angle treeline terrain in a meadow on a west aspect had that layer of weak, sugary snow down approximately 100cm with the early-December crust beneath that and more sugary snow beneath this crust.
 
Test results on this weak, sugary layer of snow just above the crust showed that the layer still has the potential for widespread failure on the right (or wrong!) slope. Steeper and open/large slopes around treeline - especially rocky ones, should be avoided. Treeline on most aspects still seems sensitive and may be for some time yet.
 
If you get too close to rocks or trees poking up through the snowcover and hear 'whumpfing' or see cracking around your skis then that is a sign of unstable snow.
 
Also, please consider that the snowpack in the South Coast region at all elevations, so far this year, is more fragile than usual.
 
The trend is for warmer weather and continued snowfall. The avalanche hazard will be on the rise, too......
 
Wishing Everyone a safe January,
Dale Marcoux
Assistant Ski Guide
ACMG Member
 
 

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[MCR] Bear Spirit Anchors

I was at Bear Spirit climbing yesterday (Sunday, January 5), being a weekend it was quite busy.  There was a couple of anchors set up for top- roping which displayed an un-safe practice.

1. The first anchor, had quite a few people taking turns climbing the steep pillar.  For the anchor, there was a 7mm prussic cord tied around a relatively small tree not double but single strand.  The two ends of that prussic cord were connected with a overhand knot.  From that prussic cord there was another cord attaching a faded old rope around a relatively small dead tree.
   

The prussic cord (if used as an anchor for top roping) needs to be connected with a double fisherman Knot (overhand knot can flip over), and also the prussic cord or cordellet needs to be doubled in order to be full strength ( I normally use webbing).  I wouldn’t have used that dead tree with that old faded rope as an anchor.  There was lots of ice;  two 22 cm screws and a double length sewn webbing that equalized the anchor would have been a much safer option or of course a BIG LIVE TREE.


    2.  The second anchor was around a big live tree which was good, but the focal point to where the climbing rope was going thru had two none -lockers     with the gates apposed.

A better focal point would be a locker with a non-locker (opposing gates), especially if you will be top-roping for an extended period of time.

There are my two- bits for a safer top roping scenario.

Play safe,

Marco Delesalle
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

        

[MCR] Lesser Flute, Whistler Backcountry Jan. 4th

Went for a tour in the Whistler Backcountry yesterday (Jan. 4th) to try and gather some info on the snowpack and see if we could find some safe turns. We toured up the ridge/ski area boundary from the bottom of the Symphony Chair towards Lesser Flute and did a couple of laps in the trees off the ridge towards Oboe Creek, finishing by skiing out Singing Pass Trail.

Elevation: 1560 to 2000m
Temperatures: -6.5 to -9.5 deg C
Height of snow: 80 – 160cm
Sky: Obscured, snowing
Ski penetration: 30-60cm
Foot penetration: 60-80cm
Wind: Moderate SE at ridgetop
Snowpack: Varied greatly with terrain and elevation, containing many facet layers but each pit we dug was significantly different.

We observed some localized whumpfing and cracking near trees, but we stayed away from steep open slopes and glades (ie. Avalanche terrain) as snow profiles showed there is definately weak layers reactive amongst the rotten facets. No avalanches observed apart from very small soft 10cm slabs on very small terrain features from ski cutting.

Singing Pass trail was in good condition, the lower section having a couple of ditches to be wary of and we had to take our skis off twice to cross creeks. Oboe Creek still had holes with water showing, so we headed left into the trees where there was quite a bit of deadfall not covered, but manageable.

There was 30cm blower pow in my driveway when I got home, so stability is going to get worse before it gets better, be careful.

Alex Geary
Assistant Ski Guide

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[MCR] Cerise Creek ~ Duffey Lake area

Sunday, January 4th, 2009: Cerise Creek/Keith's Cabin.
 
The nature of a westerly flow of weather is fast-moving, keeps freezing levels lower, and snowfalls can be heavy. That was certainly the case today; the weather embedded itself very quickly in the mountains of the Intercoastal Range (Duffey Lake area) and snowfall amounts along with wind speeds continued to increase throughout the day.
 
Of particular note was the very strong south-westerly winds that began blowing in the alpine, at treeline, and into below treeline terrain by midday. Currently, there is significant transport and drifting of previous mountain snows as well as all this new storm snow into most lee terrain and also down into much lower lee terrain than is normal. Skinning and ski tracks were rapidly being filled-in by the moving snow and accumulations were becoming significant.
 
The snow that is currently being moved into avalanche start zones is becoming more cohesive and slabby, and the hazard is currently increasing.
 
We stayed away from steep open terrain as well as any terrain that was exposed from above because of the building slabs in those areas and also because there is an existing hazard there already. Essentially, we skinned up from the valley earlier in the day and then skied one short run in lower angle terrain amongst thicker trees on the way back down to the road. A hot coffee in Pemberton seemed like a better idea.
 
The trail from the road in to the cabin is getting better but still a little 'boney' in places. Plenty of tree bombs fell today because of those stiff winds.
 
Not a bad idea to let these vigorous storms pass, and the snow to settle, before venturing out.......
 
Dale Marcoux
Assistant Ski Guide
ACMG Member

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[MCR] Howsons 4 Jan 09

Today we received 20 cm of low density snow with little wind. The total
storm snow at the lodge is now over 30 cm. We heard only few avalanches
from very steep faces and the visibility was poor so we could not see
much. Ski cutting of steep E facing windloaded morainal features
produced only sluffing in the storm snow. On a trip toward the
Solitaires to 1500 m with an avalanche course, we found deep
trailbreaking and slow skiing and 360 cm of snow. However, there was
little wind and the temperatures rose 6 degrees over the last 24 hours
to a more comfortable -8. We rate the danger considerable in the alpine,
moderate at treeline and low below treeline.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Kootenay Burn

I spent the day ski touring up & down the south shoulder that runs down to
the Marble Canyon parking lot with Karsten Heuer up to about 2600m. In the
right conditions this is a beautiful tour with over 900m of relief and
good skiing. Today wasn't quite one of those days :)

Moderate SW winds and mainly overcast with some broken skies throughout
the day. Cold, as low as -20C observed.

Snowpack at treeline is shallow and variable, about 70-90 cm deep. The top
20cm (recent storm snow) in sheltered area is still fairly low density. In
open glades below treeline it's slabby and somewhat reactive on top of the
otherwise totally facetted snowpack. The alpine is totally wind hammered
with hard slabs in lee features and windscoured on exposed aspects.

We were very careful our use of terrain and avoided larger slopes even in
the "trees" (or rather the burnt remnants thereof). We did not observe any
whoomfing and only limited cracking, but in places the bond quality
between the storm snow slab and the underlying facets was very weak and
produced very easy hand shear results.

Travel in general was moderate with typically boot top penetration (though
often knee deep with plenty of holes). Ski quality in general was poor --
upside down and bottomless -- and we followed our uptrack on our way down
for the last ~150m of elevation because it was so desperate.

In short, it's still too early to recommend ski touring in Kootenay Park
right now, but you might have an enjoyable day out if you're willing to
balance a good measure of caution with a little adventure.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
ASG/AAG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Bow Summit Area

Hello,

Went for a bit of a ski today (Jan 4) near Bow Summit. We noted 4 avalanches from with in the last 48 hours which seemed to be from the last storm/wind cycle with approximate crown depths of 30-40 cm. They ranged from size 1-2 and were in skiable terrain.

Walking on the snow below tree line and at tree line didn't give much confidence as skis punched close to the ground and ski poles easily went to ground. A quick pit showed moderate, sudden collapse shears below the buried wind slab down 30-40 cm in the pile of facets the avalanche buliten is talking about. There were no other results from the tests but the "sugar bowl" that was my pit didn't inspire any confidence. All this combined with marginal ski quality, breaking through into the facets at the bottom of each turn, didn't make for the best day of skiing but it was a beautiful day in the mountains.

All in all this is one of the weakest snow packs I have see at this time of year.


Jesse de Montigny
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
ACMG Ski and Asistant Alpine Guide

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[MCR] Rogers Pass, Selkirks

Summary

Have been skiing in the Pass from New Year's Eve to Jan 2.

On Dec. 31 I had a great day skiing powder below tree line up the connaught drainage.

We experienced chest deep powder turns from the recent large amounts of storm snow.  This was the deepest snow i had skied in two years.

There was moderate to strong winds blowing consistently from the south to south west all day.  The ski quality had not change (from the winds) through out the day below treeline and in sheltered areas.  Conditions at Tree line and above seemed alot worse and considerably different from the large amounts of new snow and wind. 

On Jan. 1 another 5-10 cms had fallen overnight.  Temps around -10 were observed and the winds had calmed. 

Again, i ventured up the connaught drainage.  I observed numerous large natural avalanches up to size 3 up the grizzly below drainage.  They would have released sometime during the previous 24 hours.  

One slide in particular had ran from ridge top to the choke of the grizzly drainage (about 1000m). 

The highways avalanche team were bombing in the area during this day.  We had heard rumours of avalanche results to size 3.5.

On Jan. 2, I again ventured up the grizzly shoulder area but continued up the ridge towards little sifton. I had temps as low as -17 through out the day.  There was evidence of the previous strong winds.  Alot of the ridge crests were blown to dirt.  

Also to note is the 65 cm one finger slab that has formed in parts of Tree line and the Alpine.  This slab (dense in places) is a combo of the winds, storm snow and the cool temps. It seems a large load is need to trigger this slab (i.e. cornice, bomb).  But if it does preform, things could go to biblical proportions. 

There has been much evidence through the media and other sources of information around the province of large scale avalanche activity over the course of the last few days.  We are approaching one of the busier weekends of the year for backcountry and slack country users. Please use caution and your brains this weekend.  

Jon Simms

ASG  

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