special note was the intense mosquito activity at Wilcox Creek campground
and on the first part of the approach to Tangle.
Snow on upper slopes can be largely avoided but we took to the snow for some
step kicking practice when generally went well with good boot-top
penetration until we began post-holing in waist deep mush around 9000 -
9500'. The step kicking exercise was terminated shortly thereafter. No
amount of prudent route-finding could find better snow mostly because of a
rain overnight and a poor overnight freeze. I would not have wanted to be on
anything steep that day.
We descended a non-standard way which had us negotiating some more snow
which either supported your weight or dropped you down into post-hole city
depending upon your weight and your degree of luck. Another great
route-finding exercise was had by avoiding the normal descent of retracing
the ascent route. Stream crossing provided a minor bit of excitement at
day's end.
Observation of the Skyladder on Andromeda makes me think the route is now
completely done for the year. The lower slopes now have extensive sections
of rock exposed where some recent sluffs have removed the snowcover. This
now exposes parties to the rockfall that many climbers have experienced in
recent years now that the ice on the lower third of the route has completely
melted. "Reduce your greenhouse gas emissions" should be our rallying cry as
I watch more and more ice routes melt into oblivion.
Nigel Peak still has a lot of snow on the upper part of the scrambles route
from what we could see and I would give it a miss for a while yet as that
slope is steep enough to be a concern. We chose Tangle in part because of
the remaining snow on Tangle and Wilcox potentially causing us issues.
Patience is likely a virtue in waiting for these scrambles to dry off a bit
more.
Cyril Shokoples MG
Rescue Dynamics
5109 - 17A Avenue NW
Edmonton, Alberta, CANADA T6L 1K5
http://www.rescuedynamics.ca
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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