Rupert Wedgwood and I just spent the past 3 days with two groups on these.
Approach up the Huber Ledges is good as is the Huber Glacier with good snow
travel. There is still enough snow above the ledges to generate rockfall.
Yesterday we witnessed a large rockfall at around 11:30 that raked the
traverse. Conditions on Huber are good with the shrund passed on the
right. Travel up to the Victoria Ridge was on good snow and the bergsrund
is well filled and easy. The Vistoria ridge is covered in snow and
tricky. We worked our way up it for a while as long as we could stay on
top of it. The last section to the summit appeared either undercut or
required exposure on the south slopes. Any snowballs down the south
side generated avalanches up to 2.5. No evidence of anyone going to the
summit or getting past the south peak from Abbott Pass.
Today on Aberdeen, we found good conditions down lower on the ice tongue.
The shrund was passbale on the right without too much exposure to the
icefall. It does not look like the bridge will last long though. Snow
travel is fair with moist snow in deeper areas. Snow in the descnet gully
made for a n easy descent.
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