Friday july 18th.
Just got down from Abbott pass via the Death Trap. OK conditions but one crevasse at the Furhman ledges elevation requires a fairly sporty jump, downclimb or burly spotting right now. It will only get worse and the serac hazard isn't getting any better.
O'Hara approach was in excellent shape on tuesday with lots of firm snow. No sign of last years trail work where snow is melted. Hmm, could be nasty when the snow melts but we shall see.
Climbed Victoria S ridge to the summit before the sickle on thursday. Excellent conditions with dry rock and hard steps. Still lots of verglas potential overnight. No tracks beyond this point and snow getting very weak on sun affected East face by 9am. Lefroy has/had a fine ladder of steps up it and was climbed on wednesday/thursday and probably friday. Ice on the west face is starting to show though and the snow may not last long if the sun ever shines.
Light rain/snow but no accumulation and 0c at 530am this morning with a mediocre freeze.
Hut is in great shape but no TP or paper for firestarter.
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide