good condition overall with a fair amount of snow caking the
mountain above 9,500 feet. Snow can be avoided for most of the rock
climbing and really isn't a hinderance. We were a party of 3,
Saturday we forded the Mistaya River at 05:00 and climbed to the top
of the the "three obvious steps" (Climber's Guide to the Rocky
Mountains Of Canada - South) and a good bivoauc on snow at 19:30.
Sunday climbing at 06:00, placed two screws in ice at the end of the
snow/ice arete (only screws placed on route). The huge multiyear
cornice that sat over the route in 2005 is gone and last winter's
cornice is mostly fallen away; getting over it was straight forward.
Summit at 13:30, descent via Delta Creek, back at the car at 20:00.
A party of two climbed the East Face, via the finishing rock rib, on
Sunday over 18 hours.
Happy trails
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.