Athabasca/Boundry Peak col to the shoulder where the North Face
bypass route intersects. Good travel on the Athabasca North Glacier
in the morning. North Ridge is basically dry, we put crampons on for
one pitch just below the crux. The crux is an honest hand/off-hand
width corner crack, several hand to fist sized cams will make you
feel better. Thunder sent us packing from the summit rock band. 10
meters of downcimbing and seven 25-30 meter rappels, starting from
the flat section of the shoulder, put us onto the glacier where we
beat a retreat.
Haven't been on the route since 1983, overall the rock is decent, but
it is a long and involved climb. We left the car at 04:00 and got
back to it at 18:30.
A party of 3 climbed the Silverhorn while we were on the mountain.
Happy Canada Day,
eh.
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
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